Rep Power: 812

Did you check all the fuses?Anything else you may have electrical related like ground wires, that kind of stuff? Stereo equipment wired wrong?

 
Rep Power: 0

I just replaced the ELD we will see what happens. . . 24hrs no check engine light so far. Im gonna put the safc back in and see what happens. Wish me luck , really need it!

 
Rep Power: 0

damn damn damn.. So i went back and hooked up the blue & light blue wire to the vtm and the tdc or whatever the initials are and my car still after awhile wont let me rev past 4000 rpm's, when you try to go past 4000 rpm's it sounds like the fuel's trying to cut out PLEASSSSSSSE HELP!.. I called those idiots at apex'i and he was like the vafc II doesnt work for your car, he was like when we did a test we never got it right or something someone with some knowledge help a poor brotha out...


THNXS

 
Rep Power: 0

Make sure you have VTEC setup for type-3(low rpm engagement+pressure sensing) and make sure that Lo->Hi and Hi->Lo are within 200rpm range. It's what our car's been set up for from the factory.

 
Rep Power: 812

If you follow EVERYTHING oin the first page EXACTLY it will work. If you did all that, you need to pull the battery and reset the ecu. This will also reset the vafcII prolly. Or just pull out the FI ECU fuse for a few seconds and that will also reset the ecu and clear the engine code. Then you should be fine. Leave the engagement point stock [****]

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok fellas. I reinstalled the safc back at 7lbs running xtra rich(untuned of corse) and everything looks to be ok so far. No cel no stalling, no fuel cuts. Im gonna push it a little when i get off work to see if everything is still working normal.

Fyi to you new comers or anyone who wants an afc or any other piggy back. Please read the directions and install everything correclty the first time. Because of this an ELD was burned out in my fuse box. Be careful and boost away!

 
Rep Power: 297

nice going everyone... its always good to get input from everyone...good luck sodjazero with your boosted motor.. and like gearbox said if you follow everything on the first page it will work.. dont listen to apexi....it has been tried trued and tested by both me and gearbox and i am sure a few others

 
Rep Power: 0

FVCK. Ok fellas i give it up. It was working fine yesterday, but to day its back to the same dam fuel cuts. Im going back to my mf2/stock injects/and stock fuel system. Its too much for me to deal with. I just wanna run 7lbs rich, and i was doing just fine untill I decided to go returnline and ect ect. So it was hell while it lasted ill be posting my safc for sale on the for sale section soon.

 
Rep Power: 297

have you tried returning everything back to stock and then connecting the safc?

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok, geez this is getting frustrating. I removed the return fuel line and external pump that was installed by a local tuner shop. Everything seems to be running ok so far. .. . "knock on wood". Ill let you guys no when i get off of work. I still have the type s injectors safc and mf2. I have the type s injectors tuned for the low end(idleing, cruising ect..) and im using the mf2 injector controller for the top end(WOT, under boost). Everything is running ok as of last night. So when i get off work ill take it for a spin and see if i have any issues or malfunctions come about. Im thinking that the way they hooked up the external pump was causing problems.

 
Rep Power: 0

OK, I hooked my civic up to a OBD DIAG tonight, I got a P1259.. any clue? MY car is still doing the fuel cut off at 4000 rpm's.. Thanxs again

 
Rep Power: 0

is this also true for the 01 vic?

 
Rep Power: 812

I have an 02 and should be retuning in a couple months. I'll post up what they find.

 
Rep Power: 297

yea my tune is still the same and hasnt changed from the day i installed my vafc2 with the ex head

 
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Im so happy my VAFC II is working now, Got some questions now though. What does COR mean? VAI? & the other v thing? I think its like voc or something? The different displays is what i'm referring too

thanxs

 
Rep Power: 812

cor = a/f correction factor. I have mine set to 4mode display with cor, throttle position, rpms, and battery voltage. The correction shows you when the vafc is modifying the air/fuel ratio from stock. All the v-things are for the vtec correction I think? Glad it's working. Now get it tuned on the dyno.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok fellas i found out what the problem was. The shop that had installed my return fuel line, connected the external pump to the wrong power connection and it was drawing current away from the altenater. Wich inturn was causing the external pump to faid during WOT. (I SURE HOPE I DIDNT DAMAGE A HG DURING ALL THIS) I was getting a p1298 code, wich pointed to the ELD or HIGH ELECTRONIC LOAD DETECTOR. Wich explained why i was only having this problem while on HIGH throttle. It was weird because my power windows were suffering too because of the connection source they used. They should have used a relay straight from the battery to power the pump, instead they used something direclty from the ecu harnes. What this is i dont know, heck i dont even care anymore. So i removed everthing hoses ect wires ect....Went back to stock. The car works fine. So now the moral of the story is, if you decide to do a return line conversion make sure its somewhat like the slp fuel kit, meaning intank pump ect.

Thanks gearbox and xproductions for all of your help.

 
Rep Power: 297

heres the abbreviation for each

prs = intake pressure
thr = throttle position
rev = engine rpm
cor = air correction factor
vti = vtec signal in from ecu (if you have a ex ecu with a signal being sent out from it)
vto = vtec signal out from vafc
cai = vtc cam angle(we dont use these on our cars
bat = battery voltage.(comes in handy when you use the radio in your car alot but dont start the car to charge the battery.. just dont let it fall below 12.0 volts because when mine fell below to 11.9 the cqar didnt have enough juice to start)

and we dont have a VAI on ours so i think you got the CAI and one of the VTI or VTO mixed with it

 
Rep Power: 297

funy you say that cause the other day i was talking with this one guy that works at another shop didnt know what the hell a D17 was... he was like damn i didnt know they made a D17... he was still stuck on the B and D16 series motors... and when i mentioned K20 he thought i was talking about some kind of gun..lol

 
Rep Power: 0

Bump it up from the dead. I just did a d17a2 swap into my 03 dx. I bought a used Apexi vafc2 so I have no paper work for it so I'm looking for a lil help hooking it up. First off I am still running my dx ecu which is really why I got the controller so I wouldn't have to swap ecu to get the vtec work. will the wiring posted in the OP be the same with my dx ecu?

 
Rep Power: 0

Bump... Nothing???

 
Rep Power: 812

did you read the first post? and this. wiring is the same for dx and ex but you need to run at least the vtm wire to the vtec solenoid.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...p-ex-vtec.html

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks thats the info I wanted.

 
Rep Power: 212

Another bump. I'll be finishing my swap next week with the Vafc2. Is there any way to set it so I only use it to control vtec? So my stock ecu deals with the a/f ratio and avoid getting my car tuned?

 
Rep Power: 812

yeah thats easy, just dont set any of the fuel trims. they come set at zero from the factory so it bypasses the vafc and uses the honda ecu for fuel trims. for vtec to keep at stock, its four stars ****

 
Rep Power: 212

now if i set the vtec to **** and use my dx ecu will vtec still work? if not what are the stock settings?

 
Rep Power: 812

this is tricky but let me explain. on **** vtec will not work and the engine will run badly using the dx ecu. the best way would be to swap in an EX ecu and let it use its own program. the problem with using a vafc to control vtec is you only get a set engagement point. the factory setting is much more complicated. before the solenoid will even activate, a number of conditions need to be met (engine coolant at operating temp, oil pressure at correct psi, throttle at 100% wide open, and rpm above 4500). if any of these conditions are not met, the vtec will not engage. forcing vtec engagement when the car is not warmed up, or when the rpms are too low, or the gas pedal is not floored, can cause engine damage over time. my advice would be set the vtec to engage at 4500 rpms and try not to exceed these rpms during normal driving (unless gas is floored and car is warmed up). its something you should also check by running the car on the dyno to see what the power curve looks like, as well as how the car drives on the street.

 
Rep Power: 212

Ok so maybe if I set lo-hi @ 4500, hi-lo @ ? I don't bag on my car until its warmed up anyway, so that shouldn't be too much of an issue. I've got the ex ecu and engine harness but I'm trying to avoid the stealership, it takes a week to get in and I don't have that time. I just need some basic settings so I can drive my car for the winter. This spring when I'm done work I'll redo everything with the ecu. Thanks for the info, you've been very helpful

 
Rep Power: 812

i think you set them both to the same thing, if you want a single crossover point. see how the car drives below 4500 rpm after you change it. if good, you will prolly be fine til next year. if it stumbles and has power loss, idk.

 
Rep Power: 212

finally recieved my controller and have it installed. this has made my new motor so fun!