Rep Power: 812

Not really needed again unless you have turbo. A vafcII and stock injectors should be more than enough for some NA boltons. Even with the head ports, I'm not running lean.

 
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^^ gearbox

How the vafc2 going , still strong? No loss of power or back to stock. Just checking up i'm thinking of dyno tune mine ,but i heard a lot rumors about vafc2 going back to stock.

 
Rep Power: 812

I'm getting another tune with new mods in the spring, so I'll post back. The 2whp I gained really isn't that much to feel tho.

 
Rep Power: 297

my settings are still the same and havent moved any yet.... used a wideband to measure the a/f ratio the other day and its till the same....

 
Rep Power: 299

I just got some dyno time in yesterday to adjust my vtec settings. Im using an LX ecu for my d17a2 but these were the best settings the tuner could come up with.

Vtec Cont L-H 4500 > H-L 4000
Vtec Unmat 0%
Throttle point 15% narrow 40% wide


Narr. thr (Low Vtec)
1800(rpm) -4
2200 -4
2600 -4
3200 -4
3600 -4
4000 -4
4200 -4
Running very rich in lower rpms

Wide. thr. (High Vtec)
4600 + 5
5000 +5
5400 +6
5800 +7
6200+ +8
Was running very lean without fuel adjustments at vtec point.

Base dyno when i came in was 111.7 whp and 109.6 tq, with vtec set to 3900. After tuning the numbers were 120.2 whp 114.1 tq. 181.4 whp and 190.7 Tq with a 50 shot of n20, bottle pressure was at 950psi





Side note TDC and VTC wires were not connected

 
Rep Power: 299

Thank god i had a helms for the ecu wiring, these are the wires though


Ignition= Yellow/Black
Ground= Black
Throttle position sensor= Red/Black
Map (pressure)= Green/Red
Rpm Vssout= Blue/White

 
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Running LX ECU doesn't make any sense for us who has EX ECU though.....

 
Rep Power: 297

haha.. good job dude..nice increase of hp... as for the ecu wiring.. i had the diagram and wire code right here.. lol.. or you could have gotten it from the DIY section

 
Rep Power: 297

okay heres is the wiring codes of each wire..pin 1 begins on the top left of the diagram and counts up as you move to the right

Connector A (31 Pins)
1-blk/wht-Primary O2 sensor heater control
2-yel/blk-Power Source
3-yel/blk-Power source
4-blk-Power ground
5-blk-Power ground
6-wht-Primary O2 sensor
7-blu-Crankshaft position
8-yel-Sensor return volt
9-red/blu-Knock sensor
10-grn/yel-Sensor ground
11-grn/wht-Sensor ground
12-blk/red-Idle air control valve
13-wht/blk-EGR Valve position VTEC ONLY
14-blk/wht-Secondary O2 sensor heater control
15-red/blk-Throttle position sensor
18-wht/grn-Vehicle speed sensor
19-grn/red-MAP Sensor
20-yel/blu-Sensor Voltage Supply
21-yel/red-Sensor Voltage Supply
23-brn/yel-Logic ground
24-brn/yel-logic ground
25-wht/red-Secondary O2 Sensor
26-grn-Top dead center sensor
27-brn-Igniton coil 4
28-wht/blu-coil 3
29-blu/red-coil 2
30-yel/grn-coil 1

Connector B (24 Pins)
2-yel-Fuel injector 4
3-blu-Injector 3
4-red-Injector 2
5-brn-Injector 1
6-grn-Radiator fan control
7-red/blk-A/T Pressure control solenoid valve A
8-red/wht-Engine Coolant sensor
9-blu/blk-VTEC Oil pressure switch VTEC ONLY
10-wht/blu-Alternator L Signal
13-wht/red-Alternator FR Signal
14-blu/red-EGR Valve VTEC ONLY
15-grn/yel-VTEC Solenoid valve
16-blk/red-A/T Pressure control solenoid valve B
17-red/yel-Intake air temp sensor
18-wht/grn-Alternator control
21-yel/blu-EVAP Canistor purge valve



Connector C (22 Pins)– AUTO TRANSMISSION ONLY
1-wht/blk-A/T Pressure control solenoid valve A
2-yel/blu-Torque converter clutch solenoid
4-grn/wht-Shift solenoid B
6-blu/blk-Shift Solenoid A
7-wht/red-Mainshaft speed sensor
8-brn/wht-A/T Pressure control solenoid valve B
9-red-Position switch D3
10-wht-position switch R
11-blu-position switch 2
12-blu/wht-position switch neutral or park
14-grn-countershaft speed sensor ground
15-blu-countershaft speed sensor
18-blu/yel-position switch D3 or D
20-yel-position switch D
21-wht/grn-mainshaft speed sensor ground

Connector E (31 pins)
1-grn/yel-Immobilizer fuel pump relay
2-wht/red-Secondary O2 Sensor EX Only
3-brn/yel-Logic ground
4-pnk-Sensor ground
5-yel/blu-Sensor voltage source
6-blk/wht-Secondary O2 sensor heater control EX Only
7-red/yel-PGM-FI main relay 1
9-yel/blk-Ignition input signal
12-blu/orn-Cruise control signal
13-wht/blu-Interlock control unit
14-lt grn-Fuel tank pressure sensor
15-grn/red-Electrical load detector
16-lt grn/blk-Power steering pressure switch
18-red-A/C Clutch
20-blu/red-EVAP bypass solenoid valve
21-lt grn/red-EVAP Canister shut valve
22-wht/blk-Brake pedal position switch
23-lt blu-K line
24-yel-Multiplex control unit comm line
26-blu-Engine speed pulse
27-red/blu-Immobilizer code
29-brn-Service check signal
30-red/wht-Write enable signal
31-grn/orn-MIL or check engine light enable


and for the lazy who dont want to look on page one here is the ecu wire harness diagram... connector A is the first one on the left and so forth

 
Rep Power: 299

no ****! Im not the only one using an LX ecu and vafc2/emanage to control vtec

 
Rep Power: 297

well it does make sense for those of us that have done a head swap (or motor swap) to a vtec...anyways


hey dizzle.. you should post ur findings in the lx to ex swap section

 
Rep Power: 0

Does anyone know why it does this with the VAFC1??

Peace

 
Rep Power: 298

yes the vafc 1 does work I saw it for my own eyes. spdrcrchk had it on her em2 and it worked just fine.you just need the diodes

 
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Ya to me it doesnt make any sense why the ver1 AVAFC doesnt work... its just voltages and resistance its not the ver2 is diff. It might be plus some features but its the same outputs and inputs...

Peace

 
Rep Power: 812

Well it really wasn't made for our car. The second one has our engine map or equivalent. I guess if you can make it work with diodes, cool.

 
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How is it not made for the 7th gen civc? and how does the first one not have a map or equivalent? My ver1 VAFC has two maps for not only my car but any car it is compatible with. It shouldnt need diodes either all it does is change the signals up or down in voltage to fool the ecu, its not changing flow direction...? I just need more info than, "it doesnt work, it trips the CEL"...

Peace

 
Rep Power: 297

it uses different voltages thats the purpose of the diodes and resistors... to reduce the voltage/signal being sent/received which is throwing the check engine light

 
Rep Power: 0

So it just doesnt have a sensor setting for the EM2? Even though I'm sure Honda's not going to change what they've been using...? And thats the purpose of the unit anyhow, to reduce or increase the voltage signals to and from the ECU...?
I know my ECU doesnt like it when I change my fuel more than +/-10% and sometimes it gives me a CEL but really who needs to adjust it more than that? Turbo? If you do you should move to a standalone or AEM EMS or similar right?

Peace

 
Rep Power: 0

What about safcII Did anybady know it will work on D17 or not

 
Rep Power: 812

safcII is the same unit without vtec function, so it should work just fine. I think even the original safc would work, since the problem had to do with vtec engagement and not a/f changes.

Btw, xproductionz adjusted his fuel ALOT with the vafcII after swapping an ex head on the lx to compensate for vtec.

 
Rep Power: 297

^^^.... what he said

 
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hey its me again, i need to know what a/f settins to use cuz my cars doin a little stutter every time i shift in the warm idle circuit...help please??

 
Rep Power: 812

You need to get it dyno tuned, but I doubt that's why it's stuttering (unless you have turbo or something). Goto Garage Kwai in arlington heights.

 
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u dont have any settings that i can use for right now?..i dont want performace, i just want that thing gone, i know why its doin the stutter, maybe im usin the wrong term, but the a/f mixture is too lean, which way do i go to make it not so lean?

 
Rep Power: 812

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...o+with+dh+head

 
Rep Power: 297

if you know for a fact you are running lean then look at your rpms and at your a/f guage at the same time or try to.. look at your a.f guage then as soon as it goes lean look at the rpm guage to see where along the pwerband you are running lean.... then adjust anything from that point on and add fuel...but if your running a stock head there should be no reason why it does that... but if you did a head swap thats a different story

 
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alright thanks

 
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Im going to install my safc soon, i think there is a orange, pink and purple wire left?

Is this correct?

 
Rep Power: 297

the only wire that shouldnt be connected is the VTC CAM SIGNAL wire... everything else shold be connected

 
Rep Power: 0

^^ even if i dont have vtech?