For all of you that have installed HID lense into TYC..
02-06-2006
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For all of you that have installed HID lense into TYC..
May I know which projector lense you used? I remember there was a thread that had pictures in it but I had no luck on searching this, or the pictures were even lost(?). I was also told that Valeo is the best one to fit into TYC. After searching, there look like many model of Valeo(? again), such as A4 Valeo, S4 Valeo, etc. If Valeo is the best one to fit into there, from what car the projector should be get from?
Thanks for reply.
Thanks for reply.
02-06-2006
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they're all the same. you have to watch out for the differences in codes/letters that come after "valeo." for example, valeo d2s ECE (euro code) would be the best valeos out there as far as light output is concerned. valeo d2s DOT is made for the USA, hence the DOT (dept of transportation). then there are valeo h7 ece and dot. these were made for h7 halogen bulbs, but can be used for HIDs if you purchase a proper adapter.
if you can get your hands on a d2s ece and d2s dot valeo projector, you can put the dot shield into the ece projector and you will have the best light output with a legal (and colorful) cutoff.
there was a member who put tsx projector into his tyc headlights, but it took a lot of carving.
if you can get your hands on a d2s ece and d2s dot valeo projector, you can put the dot shield into the ece projector and you will have the best light output with a legal (and colorful) cutoff.
there was a member who put tsx projector into his tyc headlights, but it took a lot of carving.
03-04-2006
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Rep Power: 0 Infinite012, is that wiring harness allows me to use both hi and low beam at the same time? If not, what is the reason for that harness?
03-05-2006
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Rep Power: 410 yes, it allows the low beams to stay on while you flash your high beams. this way you don't blow up your d2s bulbs prematurely. you'll have to create/search for a schematic yourself because mine (initially) didn't work. i have a working harness now, but i paid Ocelaris to make it for me.
03-05-2006
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Rep Power: 0 I've been thinking about it for a while already. Where can I find the headlight switch line? I don't think I want to get the wire to pass the firewall....
03-05-2006
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Rep Power: 410 headlight switch line? what is that? you just get an h4 connector and build your harness off of that, drawing power from the battery, and using a relay.
03-06-2006
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Rep Power: 280 there's a wiring diagram on hidplanet...i also paid ocelaris as i'm not gonna go out and risk my hack job causing a fire in my engine 
doesn't look tooooo hard.
doesn't look tooooo hard.
03-06-2006
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Originally Posted by gh0st
there's a wiring diagram on hidplanet...i also paid ocelaris as i'm not gonna go out and risk my hack job causing a fire in my engine
doesn't look tooooo hard.
doesn't look tooooo hard.
btw, he's a member of this site. i don't think he checks too often now, though.
03-06-2006
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Rep Power: 0 Is he actually using that name to come to this site? May be I can PM him and ask for his advise...I am an EIT and needs some experience on how to make things work anyway...
03-06-2006
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Rep Power: 410 Metric size "6" worked for me as you can see in the pictures. It's not an optical illusion or anything. If M5 worked for you, then that's good. Maybe there are variations of coupe headlights that I don't know of.
03-06-2006
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03-12-2006
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Finally I have my light set up completely with high beam. I did an easy way to route the high beam so that I don't need to run relays and wires. The low been is still on when I engage high beam. The only problem is that, if during the daytime I pull the stick the low beam will come on. But if I push the stick without turning on the lights the high beam itself will come on. I think that's good enough for an easy wiring.
Now it's the beam thing rotation thing. When I block driver's headlight, I can the the pass's headlight is completely horizontal on the left side of the cutoff(where horizontal and diagonal line meet). But the right side of that I have an angled cutoff. Is that normal? On your picture it looks like that also. I am just wondering.
BTW, how come my beam is more yellow than your's? Your's look very white and blue, mine is very yellow except at the cutoff. Is there anything wrong? I have Philips 85122 also, in Audi A4 D2S projector....
Finally I have my light set up completely with high beam. I did an easy way to route the high beam so that I don't need to run relays and wires. The low been is still on when I engage high beam. The only problem is that, if during the daytime I pull the stick the low beam will come on. But if I push the stick without turning on the lights the high beam itself will come on. I think that's good enough for an easy wiring.
Now it's the beam thing rotation thing. When I block driver's headlight, I can the the pass's headlight is completely horizontal on the left side of the cutoff(where horizontal and diagonal line meet). But the right side of that I have an angled cutoff. Is that normal? On your picture it looks like that also. I am just wondering.
BTW, how come my beam is more yellow than your's? Your's look very white and blue, mine is very yellow except at the cutoff. Is there anything wrong? I have Philips 85122 also, in Audi A4 D2S projector....
03-12-2006
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Rep Power: 788 yellow? that doesn't sound right. i noticed on my tyc one cutoff was lower (passenger side) is THAT normal? but they were both pretty sharp and straight overall. You really need a pure white surface or you wont get it even.
03-12-2006
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Rep Power: 788 um all oem hid should be 4100-4300k which is pure white. no trace of yellow. how does your cutoff look, like this? or crooked. and do you have color at the cutoff?
here is what 4300k looks like, and yellow fogs.well they kinda look bluish but in real life it is a sharp white.
here is what 4300k looks like, and yellow fogs.well they kinda look bluish but in real life it is a sharp white.
Last edited by gearbox; 03-12-2006 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-12-2006
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Rep Power: 0 I have a blue/purple cutoff. I have taken picture using digtal camera using both "automatic" and "day light" white balance and they are completely different. The so called "automatic" is more like a tungsten white balance and is more blue, even under regular home light bulb. The "day light" mode gives me a color that represents the real color better. I have both to compare with...
White balance:
Automatic/Tungsten: White, more toward blue. The outer (more toward the edge of lights on the side) is completely blue.
Day Light: White, more toward yellow. The whole output remains same color. The top cutoff is blue/purple.
I hope I can have these pictures uploaded so we all can see. I am now thinking how many times ppl stays "I have a bluer output" is actually the camera effect (white balancing effect) which most digital camera has. The picture comes out much bluer than it is in reality....
Gearbox....
I looked up Kalvin color temperature index and pure white is 5500K. 4100-4300K is still pretty yellow....
White balance:
Automatic/Tungsten: White, more toward blue. The outer (more toward the edge of lights on the side) is completely blue.
Day Light: White, more toward yellow. The whole output remains same color. The top cutoff is blue/purple.
I hope I can have these pictures uploaded so we all can see. I am now thinking how many times ppl stays "I have a bluer output" is actually the camera effect (white balancing effect) which most digital camera has. The picture comes out much bluer than it is in reality....
Gearbox....
I looked up Kalvin color temperature index and pure white is 5500K. 4100-4300K is still pretty yellow....
Last edited by 82801BA; 03-12-2006 at 11:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-12-2006
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Rep Power: 788 just post the pics. that chart is wrong. stock halogens are around 3200k, pure white hid is 4300k, and by 5500k you're gonna have a blue tinted white light.
this is a bit better
http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...tt=16&ei=UTF-8
this is a bit better
http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...tt=16&ei=UTF-8
