Questions for Impulse or someone regarding HID retro
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Howdy,
So as posted earlier I got the retro put on today. Tonight, I had a chance to check out the beams and what not. The cutoffs look good, however I have to re-aim the beams a bit.. I just wanted to know if there was anything in particular I should know before re-aiming them since this was a custom job. I need to move the driver's side over about 2 feet to the left or so and about a foot or so higher, and the passenger's side over to the left about 2 feet or so.
Also, I noticed that the high beams indicator is half lit, even though they are not on? Did you have this happen when they were on your car? If so/if not what should I check out to try to solve this? And, if I flash the high beams or turn them on, the HIDs shut off.. Is there a way to get around this and/or install the high beams also? Thanks in advance!
Included are a cutoff shot on a wall to show the current aiming
So as posted earlier I got the retro put on today. Tonight, I had a chance to check out the beams and what not. The cutoffs look good, however I have to re-aim the beams a bit.. I just wanted to know if there was anything in particular I should know before re-aiming them since this was a custom job. I need to move the driver's side over about 2 feet to the left or so and about a foot or so higher, and the passenger's side over to the left about 2 feet or so.
Also, I noticed that the high beams indicator is half lit, even though they are not on? Did you have this happen when they were on your car? If so/if not what should I check out to try to solve this? And, if I flash the high beams or turn them on, the HIDs shut off.. Is there a way to get around this and/or install the high beams also? Thanks in advance!
Included are a cutoff shot on a wall to show the current aiming
Last edited by slowvr4; May 1, 2005 at 10:46 AM.
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did you make your own wiring harness? or was it the one that impulse used...
there is a way to have low beams on with the high beams and it involves wire splicing, diodes, and a lot of blown fuses. lol
and you can't really adjust a projector to be moved 2 feet...you can only move the projector so much. also think about what that movement will do to your "down the road" lighting. you don't want all your light going far far away and having no foregorund lighting
there is a way to have low beams on with the high beams and it involves wire splicing, diodes, and a lot of blown fuses. lol
and you can't really adjust a projector to be moved 2 feet...you can only move the projector so much. also think about what that movement will do to your "down the road" lighting. you don't want all your light going far far away and having no foregorund lighting
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Hello,
I'm not sure if it's the one Impulse used or if XSR bought it with the bulbs/ballasts.. I don't really need brights, but there are two leads on each side for "Bright + and Bright -" They look like they'd slide on some type of pins.. I still have the brights indicator light semi-lit when the main headlights are on, but as long as it doesn't fry anything or anything like that I guess I can live with it.
I went down to a parking garage downtown today and re-aimed the projectors using the "DIY 01-03 Headlight Aiming" http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...adjustment+56k
method. They're more aligned now so I'll hope they stay like that. Other than that I don't think I've had any problems.. So for now, the only thing is the semi-lit brights indicator lamp, but even that's no big deal..
One other thing I noticed is that the cutoff on the passenger's side is more pronounced than the driver's side.. Are there any specific reasons for this? Again, it's not that big a deal, but it would be awesome if I could get it sharper at the cutoff.. Thanks in advance again
I'm not sure if it's the one Impulse used or if XSR bought it with the bulbs/ballasts.. I don't really need brights, but there are two leads on each side for "Bright + and Bright -" They look like they'd slide on some type of pins.. I still have the brights indicator light semi-lit when the main headlights are on, but as long as it doesn't fry anything or anything like that I guess I can live with it.
I went down to a parking garage downtown today and re-aimed the projectors using the "DIY 01-03 Headlight Aiming" http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...adjustment+56k
method. They're more aligned now so I'll hope they stay like that. Other than that I don't think I've had any problems.. So for now, the only thing is the semi-lit brights indicator lamp, but even that's no big deal..
One other thing I noticed is that the cutoff on the passenger's side is more pronounced than the driver's side.. Are there any specific reasons for this? Again, it's not that big a deal, but it would be awesome if I could get it sharper at the cutoff.. Thanks in advance again
Originally Posted by infinite012
did you make your own wiring harness? or was it the one that impulse used...
there is a way to have low beams on with the high beams and it involves wire splicing, diodes, and a lot of blown fuses. lol
and you can't really adjust a projector to be moved 2 feet...you can only move the projector so much. also think about what that movement will do to your "down the road" lighting. you don't want all your light going far far away and having no foregorund lighting
there is a way to have low beams on with the high beams and it involves wire splicing, diodes, and a lot of blown fuses. lol
and you can't really adjust a projector to be moved 2 feet...you can only move the projector so much. also think about what that movement will do to your "down the road" lighting. you don't want all your light going far far away and having no foregorund lighting
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hmm i know I have halogen but mine is just the opposite. For the bright indicator, I just stuck a piece of electrical tape behind the cluster face to block the light. Actually I think the bright indicator is just a bulb you can twist off from the back of the cluster.
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the bright +/- leads are for the bright bulbs. they were not included with the lights so you'd need to buy some that fit the tyc's . i'm not sure of the size needed though. those pins connect to those bulbs. hope that helps. and i do believe that is the reason the brights indicator is on half way. try it out?
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I was thinking of getting some bulbs.. Gotta search on here for the size. Drove it some more tonight.. It's amazing how much brighter/clearer things are with HID.. Still gotta fine tune the aiming sometime a bit more. Anyway.. here's a couple night shots
*the first picture is a long exposure time (>2 seconds) which is the reason for the glare*
*the first picture is a long exposure time (>2 seconds) which is the reason for the glare*
Originally Posted by XSRCivic
the bright +/- leads are for the bright bulbs. they were not included with the lights so you'd need to buy some that fit the tyc's . i'm not sure of the size needed though. those pins connect to those bulbs. hope that helps. and i do believe that is the reason the brights indicator is on half way. try it out?
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yea i notice a big difference now that i'm back to stock.. and damn those things look really blue in the pics. glad to see you are enjoying them.
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