Pete6032

My rear passenger power window stopped working two days ago.

• I cannot get the window to roll down using the driver seat button nor the rear passenger button.
• Power locks work just fine activated from driver lock switch
• Checked the fuse and it was fine. Double checked by replacing the fuse with a working one, nothing happened.
• I checked the wiring harness that goes between the rear passenger door to the car frame to see if any of the wires were cracked. I'm not sure if these are OK or not? Does this look OK? http://imgur.com/a/Z2qeD
• Tried opening and closing rear passenger door while window button is pressed down to see if I got any type of window movement and got none.

What is the next step? Pull off the rear passenger door panel? I don't have diagnostic tools to see if the window motor is getting power. Tried reading through the other power window thread but didn't see a whole lot there.

mcnoople

Turn car to run without starting car. Look up at dome light on roof. Operate button to window in question. If the motor is getting power the light will dim slightly as you push and release the button. This isn't a perfect test, but if it dims when you push and gets bright when you release you know that something is attempting to use power.

emich

same problem here. it was bad cable in the rubber harnes at the door.

ezone

Look for broken wire(s) in the harness that passes between the rear door and the body. Wires break where they flex all the time.

Replacement door harness is so cheap I won't ever try to repair the wires inside one again.

Pete6032

Good idea, thanks. I did that tonight and I could clearly hear a click and see the light go dim when I rolled up and down the other 3 windows but when I pushed the up/down for the rear passenger window the light did not dim at all and I did not hear any clicking sound. So, I guess this is pointing to that harness having gone bad? Just looked at h--a and it's a $55 part. How certain can I be that it is just a matter of replacing that harness?

ezone

Not necessarily, that has only proven the motor is not drawing any current.
You still need to figure out why or where the loss of continuity is.
Could be bad window switch in either door,
check fuses 24 and 25 in the dash fuse box
A voltmeter and wiring diagram are handy things.


It's 30.xx plus shipping from Majestic and many other dealers that sell at wholesale prices online. Try Bill Kay Honda parts, that's probably close to you (NOTE random 7th gen sedan chosen for sample): http://www.bkhondaparts.com/auto-par...e-harness-scat
I see you added a pic to your first post. Peel the rubber cover from the opposite end at the body, separate the wires and give each individual wire a tug.
Any wire that has broken should be obvious when you tug on it, if there is enough slack in the covering for it to move freely.

The 3 wires visible in that section of harness that operate the window are brown, brown/white, and yellow/red

Pete6032

I went back and looked at the harness again and tugged on each wire and saw no signs of wear. (http://imgur.com/a/ObzNS) The wires all looked good on both the rear door harness and on the connector that it attaches too at the other end. I suppose I need to buy a voltage measuring tool to determine if there is power flowing to the end of the connector that attaches to the rear door harness? The strange thing to me is that the power lock on the door works just fine.

Also, checked the under dash fuse and it is working.

mac25

Yes buy a voltmeter or a multimeter.

-Take the door skin off.
-test backwards from the power window motor.
-With the ignition in position II and with a friend pressing the button to engage the window.

If you do not see a power signal, "V+," then you need to run a new power wire. If you see V+ then test for continuity to ground.

One of the two is not working, or, if both V+ and ground are working and the motor does not move, then the motor is blown.