Overheating issue
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There are many many causes to overheating and after looking at the overheating thread none works. Here is what Happens. The coolant seems to all go to the overflow. When it overheats, the radiator is cool. I pressure tested the system and when starting the engine there are no pressure changes indicating head gasket. I also did a block test to test for gasses in the coolant and the test was negative. When pressurizing to 16psi, it eventually goes down to about 14 psi with engine off. When engine is running, it stays stables, even when revving the engine. There is no oil in coolant and no coolant in oil. No white smoke. Going to get a compression check done this week probably but what are some causes? Also, when I rev the engine it cools down(as in hitting the vtec - this is 2004 ex). Also, according to the torque app, the radiator fans are not coming on until it hits 240 degrees. When I rev it I can normally cool it down to 204 degrees.
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Yes but overflow is not bubbling, there are no combustion gases in the cooling system, and the pressure stays constant when starting instead of climbing out of control
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+1
OP all that doesn't matter. If your overflow is being filled up and/or it's coming out, it's coming from cylinder pressure via your blown head gasket.
Needs a head gasket job ASAP.
Good luck
OP all that doesn't matter. If your overflow is being filled up and/or it's coming out, it's coming from cylinder pressure via your blown head gasket.
Needs a head gasket job ASAP.
Good luck
Last edited by Matt_75; 09-14-2014 at 05:34 PM.
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I'm going to compression test it before though because like I said I connected a pressure reader and there was no rise when started or when overheatin
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Compression testing is not going to show that the head gasket is blown. It's probably going to look just fine unless the previous owner didn't change the oil enough and the rings are worn. It doesn't work to prove the HG is blown for this vehicle.
The best proven method, as ezone always states, is to pressure each cylinder with ~170 psi and look for bubbles coming out of the radiator.
You can also try the below using the cars natural compression.
The best proven method, as ezone always states, is to pressure each cylinder with ~170 psi and look for bubbles coming out of the radiator.
You can also try the below using the cars natural compression.
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Compression testing is not going to show that the head gasket is blown. It's probably going to look just fine unless the previous owner didn't change the oil enough and the rings are worn. It doesn't work to prove the HG is blown for this vehicle.
The best proven method, as ezone always states, is to pressure each cylinder with ~170 psi and look for bubbles coming out of the radiator.
You can also try the below using the cars natural compression.
2003 Civic Head Gasket Test - YouTube
The best proven method, as ezone always states, is to pressure each cylinder with ~170 psi and look for bubbles coming out of the radiator.
You can also try the below using the cars natural compression.
2003 Civic Head Gasket Test - YouTube
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I changed the thermostat and put actual coolant in instead of distilled water and that appears to have fixed the low coolant level issue and the overheating issue
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Okay so I went to dallas and back(550 mile round trip). On way there it did great. On way back it overheated. I did a cylinder pressure test today and here aremy readings:
Cylinder 1: 175
2: 175
3: 175
4: 176
No oil in coolant. No coolant in oil. I have an OEM rad cap and aftermarket thermostat. Coolant still overflows a bit. Seems at high rpms as I was revving it today hard due to seafoam treatment. When I was done there was some steam from coolant spraying on hot radiator.
Cylinder 1: 175
2: 175
3: 175
4: 176
No oil in coolant. No coolant in oil. I have an OEM rad cap and aftermarket thermostat. Coolant still overflows a bit. Seems at high rpms as I was revving it today hard due to seafoam treatment. When I was done there was some steam from coolant spraying on hot radiator.
#11
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating issue
Coolant still overflows a bit
Still needs the head gasket job.
It hasn't healed itself.
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No test is proving that. The testing fluid is staying blue no no fumes in radiator. When it cools off the radiator is back to being full again. Ive seen posts on here before where you guys say it is headgasket, the op fixes the headgasket, and it ends up not being that. Why so quick to always jump on that train?
#13
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating issue
You haven't done the right test yet.
If it IS blown, I can prove it in about 15 minutes at the shop.
Because it's missed and misdiagnosed so often.
These will usually pass every last one of the common tests and pass every last one of the common indicators that everyone thinks of.
As you have done.
Your symptoms indicated to Mikey, Matt, and myself that it's blown.
If you don't believe it's blown, please explain what caused it to overheat on the way back from your 550 mile trip.
If it IS blown, I can prove it in about 15 minutes at the shop.
Why so quick to always jump on that train?
These will usually pass every last one of the common tests and pass every last one of the common indicators that everyone thinks of.
As you have done.
Your symptoms indicated to Mikey, Matt, and myself that it's blown.
If you don't believe it's blown, please explain what caused it to overheat on the way back from your 550 mile trip.
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You haven't done the right test yet.
If it IS blown, I can prove it in about 15 minutes at the shop.
Because it's missed and misdiagnosed so often.
These will usually pass every last one of the common tests and pass every last one of the common indicators that everyone thinks of.
As you have done.
Your symptoms indicated to Mikey, Matt, and myself that it's blown.
If you don't believe it's blown, please explain what caused it to overheat on the way back from your 550 mile trip.
If it IS blown, I can prove it in about 15 minutes at the shop.
Because it's missed and misdiagnosed so often.
These will usually pass every last one of the common tests and pass every last one of the common indicators that everyone thinks of.
As you have done.
Your symptoms indicated to Mikey, Matt, and myself that it's blown.
If you don't believe it's blown, please explain what caused it to overheat on the way back from your 550 mile trip.
And what test should I do then?
#15
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating issue
Where did the coolant go?
Read post #7 in your thread here.
Then see this post...And give the entire thread a read:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4649516
The explanation for your overheating near the end of your trip is within post #18. 4th paragraph, first sentence.
But read the entire thread, there's a ton of info I really don't feel like typing all over again. LOL
And what test should I do then?
Then see this post...And give the entire thread a read:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4649516
The explanation for your overheating near the end of your trip is within post #18. 4th paragraph, first sentence.
But read the entire thread, there's a ton of info I really don't feel like typing all over again. LOL
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Where did the coolant go?
Read post #7 in your thread here.
Then see this post...And give the entire thread a read:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4649516
The explanation for your overheating near the end of your trip is within post #18. 4th paragraph, first sentence.
But read the entire thread, there's a ton of info I really don't feel like typing all over again. LOL
Read post #7 in your thread here.
Then see this post...And give the entire thread a read:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4649516
The explanation for your overheating near the end of your trip is within post #18. 4th paragraph, first sentence.
But read the entire thread, there's a ton of info I really don't feel like typing all over again. LOL
I did the test. Did I do it correctly?
#17
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OP,
Since none of us 30, 40 and maybe 50 something year old people with varied experience on this particular model of Honda, even one of the top Honda tech's in the country (ezone), can't help you, why don't you go ahead and change every single part that has anything to do with the cooling system, including all o-rings and gaskets, and let us know what actually fixed the problem.
We'll bow to your late teen, early twenty something year old life experience and wisdom. Go ahead and enlighten us young grass hopper.
Since none of us 30, 40 and maybe 50 something year old people with varied experience on this particular model of Honda, even one of the top Honda tech's in the country (ezone), can't help you, why don't you go ahead and change every single part that has anything to do with the cooling system, including all o-rings and gaskets, and let us know what actually fixed the problem.
We'll bow to your late teen, early twenty something year old life experience and wisdom. Go ahead and enlighten us young grass hopper.
#19
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OP,
Since none of us 30, 40 and maybe 50 something year old people with varied experience on this particular model of Honda, even one of the top Honda tech's in the country (ezone), can't help you, why don't you go ahead and change every single part that has anything to do with the cooling system, including all o-rings and gaskets, and let us know what actually fixed the problem.
We'll bow to your late teen, early twenty something year old life experience and wisdom. Go ahead and enlighten us young grass hopper.
Since none of us 30, 40 and maybe 50 something year old people with varied experience on this particular model of Honda, even one of the top Honda tech's in the country (ezone), can't help you, why don't you go ahead and change every single part that has anything to do with the cooling system, including all o-rings and gaskets, and let us know what actually fixed the problem.
We'll bow to your late teen, early twenty something year old life experience and wisdom. Go ahead and enlighten us young grass hopper.
#20
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating issue
Yes and no. You read the wrong thing, the test is not the video. What was done in the video may not reveal anything unless the breach is quite bad.
Anyway....The setup is ok, the execution is not.
The RATE of your head gasket leakage is so slow, you might not see any results from your setup unless you can go drive it ....maybe something like 450 miles on the highway LOL.
The breach would have to not only displace sufficient liquid from the completely full cooling system to let bubbles through, it would also have to overcome the 13-16PSI radiator pressure cap.
Read post #7 in your thread here.
When I said this, I meant this line:
This was outlined in the thread I linked.
If someone wants to sponsor me a go-pro or something, I'd gladly make a video of the entire test. I'll need a test subject with a suspected blown head gasket too. Must be local and able to drive to my shop.
===========
I'm still only human, dude! I make mistakes too.
HTH
Anyway....The setup is ok, the execution is not.
The RATE of your head gasket leakage is so slow, you might not see any results from your setup unless you can go drive it ....maybe something like 450 miles on the highway LOL.
The breach would have to not only displace sufficient liquid from the completely full cooling system to let bubbles through, it would also have to overcome the 13-16PSI radiator pressure cap.
Quote:
And what test should I do then?
And what test should I do then?
The best proven method, as ezone always states, is to pressure each cylinder with ~170 psi and look for bubbles coming out of the radiator.
If someone wants to sponsor me a go-pro or something, I'd gladly make a video of the entire test. I'll need a test subject with a suspected blown head gasket too. Must be local and able to drive to my shop.
===========
at least listen to ezone, he is the honda master of all masters
HTH
#22
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating issue
A leakdown tester uses regulated air pressure (low pressure, maybe 30PSI), dual gauges, and is used to measure and maybe find air leaks such as valves.
The low pressures used in a true leakdown test may not be enough to cross the breach.
I don't care about assigning a number value to the amount of leakage at all in this test.
My test method uses high air pressure, unregulated, no gauges.
170 PSI direct from our shop compressor air lines. (Ok it might be a bit lower but the compressor says 170 on it)
My only goal in the test is to force air past the breach in the head gasket, AND do it rapidly enough to see change in a timely manner, and pinpoint which specific cylinder(s) have leakage.
Remember, by the time I get to this point I've already evaluated this by observable symptoms (and storytelling, and maybe interpretive dance LOL).
I already know what I expect to see in the test.
I'm mainly doing it for confirmation of my suspicion and to pinpoint which cylinders are affected.
The low pressures used in a true leakdown test may not be enough to cross the breach.
I don't care about assigning a number value to the amount of leakage at all in this test.
My test method uses high air pressure, unregulated, no gauges.
170 PSI direct from our shop compressor air lines. (Ok it might be a bit lower but the compressor says 170 on it)
My only goal in the test is to force air past the breach in the head gasket, AND do it rapidly enough to see change in a timely manner, and pinpoint which specific cylinder(s) have leakage.
Remember, by the time I get to this point I've already evaluated this by observable symptoms (and storytelling, and maybe interpretive dance LOL).
I already know what I expect to see in the test.
I'm mainly doing it for confirmation of my suspicion and to pinpoint which cylinders are affected.
#25
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Yeah. Cop said it is most likely totaled. Oil and coolant was everywhere. We are just beat up with muscle relaxers and pain killers to satisfy us. The other driver was very professional about it making sure we were still okay 6 hours later after we all left hospital. Probably gonna go to chiropractor tomorrow cause my back already isn't that great and this didn't make it better. And I'm only 19 so probably can't get a rental car. Good thing I have a lot of friends already offering to give me rides for the next couple weeks. But I hate to see this happen to my car. First car wreck(motorcyxle wreck earlier in 2014 but wasn't as sore then as I am now).
#26
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Overheating issue
Man, that looks like a total to me. Glad everyone is alive!
My GFs son is going through the same thing right now, car was totaled and he has to find some more decent wheels ASAP. Insurance company towed his car away Friday.
My GFs son is going through the same thing right now, car was totaled and he has to find some more decent wheels ASAP. Insurance company towed his car away Friday.
#27
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Re: Overheating issue
Def a total.
A few years ago I popped a curb at maybe 25-30 km/h and did $3500 damage, with used parts! Control arm, sub frame, sway bar, not to mention all the SRS components like the seatbelts and new SRS module which I got new from Honda. That damage has got to be more than the cost of that car.
Glad you are o.k. At least now you know more about a Civic so you can make a really imformed decision about your next one!
A few years ago I popped a curb at maybe 25-30 km/h and did $3500 damage, with used parts! Control arm, sub frame, sway bar, not to mention all the SRS components like the seatbelts and new SRS module which I got new from Honda. That damage has got to be more than the cost of that car.
Glad you are o.k. At least now you know more about a Civic so you can make a really imformed decision about your next one!
#28
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Def a total.
A few years ago I popped a curb at maybe 25-30 km/h and did $3500 damage, with used parts! Control arm, sub frame, sway bar, not to mention all the SRS components like the seatbelts and new SRS module which I got new from Honda. That damage has got to be more than the cost of that car.
Glad you are o.k. At least now you know more about a Civic so you can make a really imformed decision about your next one!
A few years ago I popped a curb at maybe 25-30 km/h and did $3500 damage, with used parts! Control arm, sub frame, sway bar, not to mention all the SRS components like the seatbelts and new SRS module which I got new from Honda. That damage has got to be more than the cost of that car.
Glad you are o.k. At least now you know more about a Civic so you can make a really imformed decision about your next one!
#29
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Re: Overheating issue
I mean technically you can fix it...new engine and tranny, fender, hood, battery, axle(s), subframe, control arm, airbags, buckle and belt tensioners, airbags, SRS module, brake assembely, windshield and a bunch of other small stuff. Definately not worth it. Get the insurance claim, take a deep breath and move on to the next one... it happens...
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ouch! from the look behind the front fender, most likely bent frame. Total, sad to say.
glad you mostly ok.
glad you mostly ok.