mwhonda

I've had this issue for over a year. I live in a self-cooled climate
in Northern CA where it isn't such a big problem .... but it really is.

Symptoms:
AC abruptly stopped working on a hot day. After that, it works
kind of intermittently; it will run ok on first startup, then gradually
fade - and then it usually won't work at all for a long time.

I can hear the compressor kick on and off some of the time.

When the AC stops, not only does it blow warm air, but it's very
humid (this is a dry climate) - the interior can get rather steamed
up & even opening all the windows has trouble equalizing the humidity.

Diagnosis was expensive - new compressor, new MCU, new computer,
new something else - another diagnosis at Honda service was inconclusive,
they kinda got it to work, then it stopped again. What I did then was
replace the controls in the interior - that seemed to help.

Reading thru the forum, similar issues seem to have happened to others.
One thing I noticed once was tapping on the MCU and / or maybe cooling
some of the components seem to help. I haven't been able to repeat
this for a while.

I'm thinking I should try adjusting the shims on the compressor clutch.
It does seem to be related to heating, somehow - when it's hot outside,
or after the car heats up itself, no more A/C.

I am sure tired of the problem, tho, & the inability to defrost is
dangerous. Any advice? What should I be doing? Thanks!

ezone

That is NOT diagnosis.

This is what they want to do:


At least they didn't fire the parts cannon.

If the system is working when inspected, it's awful tough to figure out anything until it actually quits.




EDIT:
Oops, hit the wrong button..
Diagnose it.

Does the clutch disengage when the system stops cooling?
Does the clutch lose power when this happens, or dies it still have power?
Assuming the clutch is still getting power--Is there a magnetic field?
What is the measured clutch clearance?

usajags84

I replaced my condenser, but now I cant get it to take compressor to kick in I think the issue is the pressure switch since I am doing it the old way. (19 oz can an a hose)

I am thinking about jumping the compressor wire to a 12 v source to get the compressor to kick on and charge the system
Any ideas.


On to your issue:
I had something similar on my mother in laws 2009 crv, same symptom turned out the relay was going bad, when it was cool it would work when it got hot it wouldn't kick in $24 relay and 7 minutes no more drama

ezone

Man, start your own thread for this stuff. You have been jumping around here almost as much as I do! LOL



If you got can pressure inside the system (equalize pressures at least) then the pressure switch should have enough to kick the compressor on without you assisting it.
(If I had to, I would jumper it at the relay in the fusebox, it's much cleaner and more convenient too.)

There are several other reasons why one of these won't run the compressor.
Do the fans run when you kick the AC on?

Got voltmeter?
Is there ground at both sides of the pressure switch?

Is the thermal protector open circuit?

mwhonda

I'd like to test the thermal protector.
I'm trying to do this before/without taking the
alternator &c apart, so what I think I want to
do is pull the connector apart & test continuity
or jump across it. But I can't get that connector
apart. How do you do it? It's an S-973 I think.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32292837@N06/15345945815/

ezone

Squeeze that button under your thumb (#1), and pull the connector halves apart.


If the button has been damaged, you may be able to slide a pick or tiny screwdriver up in the housing to release the lock (hidden in area #2).



All bow to my mad MS Paint skillz!
(This took way longer than it should have LOL)

mwhonda

Thanks everybody.

Did a little circuit tracing & testing, then:
Replaced a .23mm shim with a 0.04 & 0.08mm shim.
It's cold in here now!