Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
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What's Up, Gearbox?
My wife has a 2003 Honda Civic LX. It has those black caps that cover the bolts affixing the wiper arms to the cowl beneath the windshield. One is missing. Anyplace I can purchase just those. I didn't see them on E-Bay anywhere, nor on autoanything.com, autopartswarehouse.com, etc.
Thanks.
My wife has a 2003 Honda Civic LX. It has those black caps that cover the bolts affixing the wiper arms to the cowl beneath the windshield. One is missing. Anyplace I can purchase just those. I didn't see them on E-Bay anywhere, nor on autoanything.com, autopartswarehouse.com, etc.
Thanks.
#124
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army-idk what else it could be, you might just have to get a whole new shifter console piece if its not moving.
-fog light install, this site has pdf instructions. www.handaaccessories.com
sleepyrice- yeah my name is steve. i havent used the nissan sealer but i did use the 3m window weld which is basically the same butyl based sealer. its sticky and somewhat messy, but stupid me used it on the outside of the light to seal it lol. and some of the goo on one side is visible through the fender gap. so i may need to redo that later. i just needed something fast to keep them closed.
raver-for the caps, gotta visit the dealer and i think they can be ordered separately. or order online from www.hondaautomotiveparts.com if your dealer sucks and marks up prices too high.
-fog light install, this site has pdf instructions. www.handaaccessories.com
sleepyrice- yeah my name is steve. i havent used the nissan sealer but i did use the 3m window weld which is basically the same butyl based sealer. its sticky and somewhat messy, but stupid me used it on the outside of the light to seal it lol. and some of the goo on one side is visible through the fender gap. so i may need to redo that later. i just needed something fast to keep them closed.
raver-for the caps, gotta visit the dealer and i think they can be ordered separately. or order online from www.hondaautomotiveparts.com if your dealer sucks and marks up prices too high.
#125
Re: Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
yeah thats gonna have to be body shop work if at all possible. i tried to do the same to my rear door to get it flush with the body panel, but couldnt do it. my front door is similar to yours too, i had to get it opened by locksmith and he pried it open, now the window squeaks when it goes up.
Last edited by Tew; 09-25-2008 at 06:32 PM.
#126
Re: Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
Ok, I was looking for a rear disk brake conversion kits for my car. Bad news to me there are none. So I have to do it myself. Someone posted me on another part of the forum and said that the acura el disk brakes bolt right on. Just what else do I have to do to convert the rear drums to disk brakes Hopefully without swapping out engines and suspension? I have a 05 civic vp and wanting to keep the suspension but convert the drums to brakes so its less money later on. after fixing the body i am building a custom D17A1 engine but i need to switch some things over first before building so the car can handle the hp and torque. My goal is to reach 1.3 torque to 1hp to 2.3 to a 2.6 weight ratio.
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Here you go, you should just search first. https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...elled-out.html
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Gearbox,
I just removed and cleaned by throttle body according to your DIY you have floating around. Everything went great until the last moment. I reinstalled the TB and drove the car. There was no CEL. I parked the car and pulled the ecu fuse for 15 seconds. Replaced the fuse and turned the car on with no acc and let it idle for 10 minutes. I turned the car off, then back on. Idle was right on the 700+- line. I took the car for a drive, driving normally which is not hard or anything. I get down the street and the CEL comes on. I don't know what it is? I'm going to check for vacuum leaks right now but I didn't do anything out of the ordinary.
I just removed and cleaned by throttle body according to your DIY you have floating around. Everything went great until the last moment. I reinstalled the TB and drove the car. There was no CEL. I parked the car and pulled the ecu fuse for 15 seconds. Replaced the fuse and turned the car on with no acc and let it idle for 10 minutes. I turned the car off, then back on. Idle was right on the 700+- line. I took the car for a drive, driving normally which is not hard or anything. I get down the street and the CEL comes on. I don't know what it is? I'm going to check for vacuum leaks right now but I didn't do anything out of the ordinary.
#129
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weird, it might not be related. only thing i can think of is if you forgot to plug something back in when you put it back together. there are alot of plugs and connectors. its possible you need to use new gaskets for the IAC and TB, but i reused mine and it was fine. just cleaning it should not cause problems. but easy way to find out is have an auto store read the code so you know for sure.
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Yeah I just rechecked everything and it seemed fine. But I noticed that when coming to a stop I put it in neutral and the idle jumps to 1500-1800. Then after 5 seconds it goes back to normal. I'm going to go to autozone to see if they can check the light though.
Edit: Dammit they don't check CELs anymore.
Double Edit: I unplugged all the sensors and did a few test drives and redid the idle learn process. CEL is gone, but idle issue is still there. Any ideas?
Edit: Dammit they don't check CELs anymore.
Double Edit: I unplugged all the sensors and did a few test drives and redid the idle learn process. CEL is gone, but idle issue is still there. Any ideas?
Last edited by SDhondarider; 10-01-2008 at 12:07 AM.
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Gearbox, I installed the type R grill yesterday, any idea where I can get a sedan radiator cover to fix the gap between the hood and the grill (besides a junkyard?)
#132
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either local dealer or www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
autozone pisses me off more and more every time i go there. so i only goto kragen or advance now. i know they still read codes. try to find any store except autozone lol. they hire douches that dont know anything. i bet the guy just didnt know where the code scanner was lol. if i were you, just buy one on ebay for $30 and then you can keep it in the glove box and read it yourself. mines paid for itself 10x already i dont know what id do without it. esp since 3 times the light turns on when driving and i was able to quickly pull over and scan it. or reset the code while driving hehe
autozone pisses me off more and more every time i go there. so i only goto kragen or advance now. i know they still read codes. try to find any store except autozone lol. they hire douches that dont know anything. i bet the guy just didnt know where the code scanner was lol. if i were you, just buy one on ebay for $30 and then you can keep it in the glove box and read it yourself. mines paid for itself 10x already i dont know what id do without it. esp since 3 times the light turns on when driving and i was able to quickly pull over and scan it. or reset the code while driving hehe
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Actually, my autozone is pretty cool. They hired some people who know their **** there, of course they have some regular folk. The eprosn who helped was a girl! And she knows cars, they actually aren't allowed to anymore supposedly. She tried to sell me their OBD2 scanners though. lol And Kragen didn't want to do it either. I was going to bring it to AAMCO cuz they do it for free, but if you check my previous post I fixed the CEL.
Last edited by SDhondarider; 10-01-2008 at 12:12 AM.
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idk, i mean there might be a chance air is leaking through the TB/IM gasket. wouldve been nice to see what the code was. the whole reason for the idle learn after removing TB is that you will never get it put back in the exact same position. but it should adjust and be fine after that. idle surge is usually only caused by the TPS sensor, which unless you dropped it and somehow broke the alignment, it shouldnt just die.
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either local dealer or www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
autozone pisses me off more and more every time i go there. so i only goto kragen or advance now. i know they still read codes. try to find any store except autozone lol. they hire douches that dont know anything. i bet the guy just didnt know where the code scanner was lol. if i were you, just buy one on ebay for $30 and then you can keep it in the glove box and read it yourself. mines paid for itself 10x already i dont know what id do without it. esp since 3 times the light turns on when driving and i was able to quickly pull over and scan it. or reset the code while driving hehe
autozone pisses me off more and more every time i go there. so i only goto kragen or advance now. i know they still read codes. try to find any store except autozone lol. they hire douches that dont know anything. i bet the guy just didnt know where the code scanner was lol. if i were you, just buy one on ebay for $30 and then you can keep it in the glove box and read it yourself. mines paid for itself 10x already i dont know what id do without it. esp since 3 times the light turns on when driving and i was able to quickly pull over and scan it. or reset the code while driving hehe
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hey steve, is there a DIY clutch/fly wheel on this forum somewhere? what about any other forum? (for a d17)
if not, is there some kinda manual i can dl or somethign?
or mabee the haynes manual has the instructions to DIY?
if not, is there some kinda manual i can dl or somethign?
or mabee the haynes manual has the instructions to DIY?
#139
Re: Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
hey if i have a 07 civic with cai and exhaust, its an R18
and im looking to put in weapon r's new intake manifold for it, what kinda of changes am i going to see? as far as low end, top end, and torque? The thing says it will add 10 hp and more if your running FI which im not and dont plan to untill my warrenties up.
I would just like your opinion on the end results.
thanks
Dustin
and im looking to put in weapon r's new intake manifold for it, what kinda of changes am i going to see? as far as low end, top end, and torque? The thing says it will add 10 hp and more if your running FI which im not and dont plan to untill my warrenties up.
I would just like your opinion on the end results.
thanks
Dustin
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i replied to your post already. also check 8thcivic.com they would know more about that engine than we do here (mostly 7thgen 01-05 civic stuff on this site). if you dont go FI, keep the stock manifold.
#141
Re: Ask Me About DIY Stuff V2!
haha yeah i just saw that and i asked another question there, which i guess i can just ask here. What are some mods that won't void the power train warrenty but still squeeze out some extra power?
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well technically any mod might void warranty cause dealers are stupid. but basic bolton mods like intake/header/exhaust should be okay. now cold air intake might be iffy because if you suck in water from the filter being too low to the ground, they will deny you a new engine.
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you know i worked at advance for 6 months and only sold one of those tools. i have no idea what you do with it. the boxes in the back we had looked like they were from 1950s.
#145
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basically you put the tip of the tool through the clutch disc and then into the fly wheel so that you are holding the clutch disc in the middle of the pressure plate when you are bolting it on. Then once the pressure plate is torqued down you simply pull the tool out.
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Hey Gearbox::::
Would you still recommend an optima yellow top for our cars?
I was thinking the larger D34 for starting and its deep cycle abilities.
Any of your opinions would be great. Thanks
Would you still recommend an optima yellow top for our cars?
I was thinking the larger D34 for starting and its deep cycle abilities.
Any of your opinions would be great. Thanks
#148
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hellz no. do not use deep cycle as a car battery. mine did not even last 2 yrs. it almost never charges properly in a car environment. im a firm believer in regular lead acid batteries they work best. just try and get something better than the crappy 420 CCA stock battery. the one i have now is autocraft titanium which has 500 CCA. just check the fluid levels every few months by popping the caps off and filling distilled water if necessary.
sorry i dont know how to rebuild turbo.
sorry i dont know how to rebuild turbo.
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Alright, well what about this scenario,
My sound system is draining 800watts from my little electrical system. Our cars have a 70amp(=840watts) alternator. So I am having my alternator rebuilt to 140amps(=1680watts). I was looking into the Optima yellowtop D34 which is 750CCA, with the alternator upgrade, wouldn't this sufficiently charge the deep cycle batt? Or should I just go with a larger and more powerful conventional battery?
Thanks
My sound system is draining 800watts from my little electrical system. Our cars have a 70amp(=840watts) alternator. So I am having my alternator rebuilt to 140amps(=1680watts). I was looking into the Optima yellowtop D34 which is 750CCA, with the alternator upgrade, wouldn't this sufficiently charge the deep cycle batt? Or should I just go with a larger and more powerful conventional battery?
Thanks
#150
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just go with a big lead acid battery. the alternator upgrade solves the real problem tho, which is the power drain by your stereo. with stock alternator, there isnt enough power to run the car AND the stereo, so it borrows power from battery and eventually kills it. optima is crap even the redtops. its just marketing gimmicks. ask anyone who owned one before. corvetteforums guys hate them with a passion.