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-   -   13.2 sux I want more (https://www.civicforums.com/forums/140-fuel-oil-cleaners-other-maintenance/234635-13-2-sux-i-want-more.html)

drjvic04 11-11-2005 01:15 PM

13.2 sux I want more
 
Is there any other options aside from a fuel cell in my trunk? I want a bigger gas tank is there any thing that will fit from the factory?

Kyle23 11-11-2005 01:17 PM

maybe an RSX gas tank.... everything else seems to fit from those cars. however, i dont know if its any bigger. maybe an accord? I think that u would have to mod something to make either one of these fit though

Sick Cycle 11-11-2005 01:22 PM

rsx tanks are the same size

sweeteli99 11-11-2005 01:29 PM

why would you want another gas tank?

Blahman240 11-11-2005 01:47 PM

that would be the most pointless mod ever... seeing as most cars don't even have a 13 gallon tank.

AzNmiKex215 11-11-2005 02:01 PM

We should get around 300+ mile range on a tank. Thats pretty damn good. Its not enough for you? Are you planning to do a Cannonball run? lol

bluestreak 11-11-2005 02:47 PM

^ I can get 500 miles if I run it down to fumes.....

drjvic04 11-11-2005 03:36 PM


Originally Posted by AzNmiKex215
We should get around 300+ mile range on a tank. Thats pretty damn good. Its not enough for you? Are you planning to do a Cannonball run? lol

Hey man
I live in cali. Gas prices suck more for us than the rest of the country. I just want to extend my trips to the pump. I know we get 300+ per tank, but hey 500 would kicka$$.

Thuener 11-11-2005 03:59 PM

500... wow.. just thinking about that makes my dreams come true. Well, i have exhaust and intake and i can still get about 330-350 before the gas light comes on, but im on the freeway for about 90% of my driving.. oh yea, cali prices DO suck! but they're going down, it's around $2.57 at the budget stations..

lindermant 11-11-2005 04:08 PM

500 mile tanks are doable, depending on your driving habits. My best so far was 504.7 before I chickened out and filled up (took 11.9 gallons).

I'm working on a >500 mile tank right now, pic below was taken the other night when I got home from work; 310.6 miles and just below 1/2 tank.

http://mysite.verizon.net/tlinderman...s/dsc00415.jpg

I passed a gas station today that had 87 octane for $1.99!

Thuener 11-11-2005 04:11 PM

310 on a half tank!? dudde.. i would kill (you) for that kind of mileage! hahaha jk dude, keep up the good work.

lindermant 11-11-2005 04:20 PM

yep, I tend to drive at or just below the speed limit. I'm lucky that my commute times are not during rush hour so I tend to have the road to myself and can get away with going just a bit under the speed limit and not causing any traffic jams.

I have an 05 value package coupe (DX with auto and a/c). Tire pressure set at 43 psi, and I used 2oz of FP60 at each fillup. I made a DIY cold air mod just yesterday; I'll be interested to see if that mod affects MPG at all (probably not).

gearbox 11-11-2005 04:22 PM

i rarely fill past 1/2 so less weight= better mileage.

drjvic04 11-11-2005 06:20 PM


Originally Posted by gearbox
i rarely fill past 1/2 so less weight= better mileage.


...did you just call me fat?!?:eek:

AzNmiKex215 11-11-2005 06:35 PM

To the people that acheive insanely good mileage on one tank (350+) Do you have large rims and bodykits?

I blame my low 250-300 Miles Per Tank on my Kit, Trunk System, and 18 inch rims. I guess all taht weight is taking its toll?

gearbox 11-11-2005 07:29 PM

haha no i was talking about the weight of gas. 1 gallon = around 8 lbs i believe so 6 gallons = almost 50lbs. that makes a difference.

gearbox 11-11-2005 07:29 PM

I've gotten upto 42mpg on all highway with 15 inch rims, one amp in the trunk, no spare, and lip kip, lowered and aligned.

Sick Cycle 11-11-2005 07:33 PM

hehe try getting a cf trunk, cf hood, no spare/jacks, no a/c, no p/s, 15" rims that weigh just under 9 pounds. that would be the ultimate gas saving 7g. and an hx tranny.

lxcivic2k1 11-11-2005 08:10 PM

I can get to 330 with a quarter of a tank left and I have 17s with a system in the trunk and only exhaust.

ncirom2003 11-11-2005 08:13 PM


Originally Posted by Thuener
310 on a half tank!? dudde.. i would kill (you) for that kind of mileage! hahaha jk dude, keep up the good work.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

ryankne 11-11-2005 09:26 PM

my gas light comes on after about 410 miles.....i know something is wrong if i don't get past 400 miles, the last time i didn't get that was because i needed a new air filter...............oh and YES 18 in rims will suck a lot more gas!!!!....

lindermant 11-12-2005 06:55 AM

aznmike,

my car has no body kit, and rolls the factory 14" steel wheels. I'm in the market for a set of pre 2000 14" civic HX alloy wheels...

lindermant 11-13-2005 09:57 PM

update - just filled up on my way home from work tonight:

458.2 miles, 10.144 gallons to fill up (stopped at first click) = 45.17MPG

vietstylez 11-13-2005 10:31 PM

how the hell are u guys getting way over 400, if i REALLy try i can possibly hit 400 but i have to shift very low and never speed. do 17's, lip kit, an a system really affect mpg that much?

jamesandrew58 11-13-2005 10:57 PM


Originally Posted by gearbox
i rarely fill past 1/2 so less weight= better mileage.

but remeber this.. gas fumes that build up is more explosive than liquid gas.. food for thought

Jrfish007 11-14-2005 08:19 AM

make sure your tires are filled up to the max, more tire pressure means smaller conact patch and less rolling resistance. You should also get tires that last a long time or high milage tires, they are often harder and have lower coeficient of friction. Of course all this will hurt your handling if you loving blazing through corners.

It helped greatly on my truck, Ford filled the tires to 40 psi, and I pumped them up to 60 psi and gained about 1 mpg (1 mpg is big gains for a truck :D). And yes, the factory tires are deisnged to handle up to 65 psi, so no I was not out of spec, I want to go to 65 psi, but the air pressure at the gas station only went to 60 :mad:

BTW, the ride does get a little rougher at higher tire psi.

Ahh yes, as far as gast tanks go, my truck has a 39 gallon tank and I get about 600 miles out of it before I have to fill up about 31-32 gallons. I have a hualing truck that has a 75 gallon tank of diesel in the bed and 35 gallon tank, I know an aftermarket company put the larger tank, I just forget who, but I know somebody out their makes DOT approved after market tanks.

Blahman240 11-14-2005 09:59 AM


Originally Posted by drjvic04
...did you just call me fat?!?:eek:

Oh I think he went there ::does thing with neck that black girls do::

drjvic04 11-14-2005 04:04 PM

Yeah I just filled up my tires at home this weekend. Mostly because I ran out of gas on Saturday. I went 232 miles on 6.8 gallons. Which is like 34mpg.

ncirom2003 11-14-2005 09:23 PM

im passed half a tank right nwo after a fill up with a top off and i think i just hit 200 today..............OUCH!!!!
but ive got 17's drive pure city crap through boston heavy traffic, and have a heavy system and a fat friend i commute with to and from school 15 miles everyday. plus its standard so coming from a stop hurts also especialy with all this weight.

shroomster 11-17-2005 09:24 PM

lindermant you might want to check your max p.s.i on your tires...overpressurizing tires (most car tires have max of 35 or so) can cause separated belts.or instant blowouts when and if you hit a piece of debris or pothole,(not a flat tire a blowout where you lose control or that quarter of your car is demolished by the tire). tis better to get safely from point a to b with 35 mpg than to risk your life saving $5 a tank.....

lindermant 11-17-2005 09:36 PM

shroomster,

max cold inflation pressure = 51 PSI

Dunlop SP20 FE
185/70 SR14

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.j...omCompare1=yes

nick95673 11-17-2005 09:44 PM

back to the original topic. adding the extra gas wouldnt save you any money. it would just knock your gas mileage down a lil because of the extra weight. i suggest you give your gf your car keys nd tell her to go fill the tank up because you dont like to. trust me this is much cheaper.

joe6680 11-17-2005 10:27 PM

Just b/c you add a bigger tank doesn't mean you increase fuel efficiency..... In fact I bet you decrease it b/c your just adding weight. So you may go further but your just adding cost.

Jrfish007 11-18-2005 08:30 AM

Well, yeah, adding more fuel is not more effecient, but the problem is (and I have the same problem) that it is annoying to keep filling the tank. Specially when you have to go out of your way to get to a decent gas station.

drjvic04 11-18-2005 09:46 AM


Originally Posted by nick95673
back to the original topic. adding the extra gas wouldnt save you any money. it would just knock your gas mileage down a lil because of the extra weight. i suggest you give your gf your car keys nd tell her to go fill the tank up because you dont like to. trust me this is much cheaper.


...wow. Thats the most intellegent thing I have ever seen on these boards.:eek:
You shame me with your wisdom.
You truly are a :2pimp:

HondaLuver 11-18-2005 10:29 AM

my dads pruis can go 50 mpg, if driven right i can get about 600 miles in a non stop trip

CivicSF 11-18-2005 04:51 PM

here's a much better solution:

http://www.nationalfuelsaver.com

aftermarket canister that you T right into your vacuum line, platinum vapors mixed into the intake supposedly increases combusion cycle by 22% thermal effeciency

did some math after talking with dude to see if it was worth the money invested:

** $199 per NationalFuelSaver package for 7th gen civic
** 30,000 miles worth of product per canister, then need refill (cost unknown)
** 30,000 stock mileage x 122% improved mileage = 36600 miles
** cost of 6600 stock miles in gas:
6600 / 35 mpg (conservative): 188.57 gallons
188.57 x $2.75/gal (adjust as neccesary): $518.57
** $518.57 gas savings - $199.00 product price = $319.57 real world savings

with the assumption the product works as indicated, i've just ordered mine can't talk from experience, this should put $319.57 in your pocket per canister in the long run. i'll post when i get real data.

CivicSF 11-18-2005 05:22 PM

upping the tire pressure isn't a good way to attain better gas mileage. you sacrafice considerable ride quality, cornering ability, and you're at high risk for fun tire adventures i.e. riding home on a spare. tires are designed for optimal pressures, follow specs recommended from the manufacturer spec (+/- a few psi is always necessary for variables)

if someone is getting great gas mileage ten buck says it has to do with driving, conditions, and many other things rather than tire psi

Jrfish007 11-18-2005 09:14 PM


Originally Posted by CivicSF
here's a much better solution:

http://www.nationalfuelsaver.com

aftermarket canister that you T right into your vacuum line, platinum vapors mixed into the intake supposedly increases combusion cycle by 22% thermal effeciency

did some math after talking with dude to see if it was worth the money invested:

** $199 per NationalFuelSaver package for 7th gen civic
** 30,000 miles worth of product per canister, then need refill (cost unknown)
** 30,000 stock mileage x 122% improved mileage = 36600 miles
** cost of 6600 stock miles in gas:
6600 / 35 mpg (conservative): 188.57 gallons
188.57 x $2.75/gal (adjust as neccesary): $518.57
** $518.57 gas savings - $199.00 product price = $319.57 real world savings

with the assumption the product works as indicated, i've just ordered mine can't talk from experience, this should put $319.57 in your pocket per canister in the long run. i'll post when i get real data.

hahaha..... here is the trick to that, just because you have 22% more thermal effeciency doesn't mean you have 22% more MPG. If you really want I can break down how thermal effeciency is defined and why that does not mean an direct increase in the Otto cycle, or you can take my word for it as an engineer that knows WAY to much about thermodynacis, you will be lucky to see a 10% increase in milage with a 22% increase in thermal effeciency.

Jrfish007 11-18-2005 09:16 PM


Originally Posted by CivicSF
upping the tire pressure isn't a good way to attain better gas mileage. you sacrafice considerable ride quality, cornering ability, and you're at high risk for fun tire adventures i.e. riding home on a spare. tires are designed for optimal pressures, follow specs recommended from the manufacturer spec (+/- a few psi is always necessary for variables)

if someone is getting great gas mileage ten buck says it has to do with driving, conditions, and many other things rather than tire psi


I don't think anyone here said they where driving with their tire out of spec, like I said my truck tire say right on them they can go up to 65 psi cold. Yes all that stuff does get worse, but appartently they still think it is safe :shurg:

shroomster 11-18-2005 10:01 PM

max p.s.i. is referring to the max p.s.i the tire can be pressurized at while holding the maximum load (for example a tire has a max p.s.i of 44 and a max load range of 675 lbs. which means at 44 p.s.i if the load range exceeds 675 lbs the tire can/will fail) its simple math to find an optimal operating pressure, cept I feel if you want to drive on bricks drive on bricks who is to tell you how to air your tires....

ncirom2003 11-20-2005 09:38 PM

shroomster is 100% correct here.
as for tires, everyone just put them to spec that is in the door jamb. if a couple miles per tank more is worth it to you, go on a diet and put it in neutral when your going down hills.

oh yea and REMEMBER THIS!....... if your manufacturer recommends 32psi that is when the tire is cold say in the morning. if youve been driving for a little while, lets say long enough for the engine to heat up, then add 5psi. so if you check your tire pressure at a local gas station after driving or on a trip, you should put it to 37psi. and if its really really cold (say an icy winter morning) i guess maybe you should put it to 30psi rather than 32, but im not sure on that one.

just read about that 22% dealy real quick. to me thinking about how a cars computer system works and all i dont see how a more complete combustion would cause the computer to inject less fuel to save gas. however it sounds like it could help maximize hp output. after all more gas burning means more power. but what if the platinum it injects lowers the fuels heating value, i know gasoline has a btu per gallon rating of about 215,000. so what if the platinum being injected lowers this, which it will just as if you inject ethanol with gas it lowers the heating value. so i guesss thats also something to think about. maybe its not doint what they say..............

Jrfish007 11-21-2005 08:25 AM


Originally Posted by Shroomster
max p.s.i. is referring to the max p.s.i the tire can be pressurized at while holding the maximum load (for example a tire has a max p.s.i of 44 and a max load range of 675 lbs. which means at 44 p.s.i if the load range exceeds 675 lbs the tire can/will fail) its simple math to find an optimal operating pressure, cept I feel if you want to drive on bricks drive on bricks who is to tell you how to air your tires....


Yes, well I'm refering to my Ford, which see lots of heavy loads and off roading (it's a real work truck), and given that Ford's are known to flip because of tires bolowing out due to to low of tire pressure, I think I'll put a little extra pressure in it :) But my '06 Civic runs at 32 ish because the most load it sees is 2 people, same with my Integra.

nick95673 11-21-2005 02:02 PM


Originally Posted by Jrfish007
Yes, well I'm refering to my Ford, which see lots of heavy loads and off roading (it's a real work truck), and given that Ford's are known to flip because of tires bolowing out due to to low of tire pressure, I think I'll put a little extra pressure in it :) But my '06 Civic runs at 32 ish because the most load it sees is 2 people, same with my Integra.

it was a tire compound problem. the stock tires would nearly melt in the summer heat. thats why customers in south america and the tropics were experiencing the problem b4 those in the northern hemisphere. run your tires at recomended psi.

Jrfish007 11-21-2005 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by nick95673
it was a tire compound problem. the stock tires would nearly melt in the summer heat. thats why customers in south america and the tropics were experiencing the problem b4 those in the northern hemisphere. run your tires at recomended psi.


It was a compound problem in the sidewalls that under low pressure the adhesion of the polymer would termintate if under to high of sheer pressure. The guy next to at work was working at Firestone when that happened, he watched the team that found that particular flaw and what caused it. It was a catalyst supplier problem in the end, bad catalyst = bad product.

Those people in the south where doing a lot of off roading, it is common practice to deflate the tires for off roading to increase the abilty to grip, the tire "forms" around the rocks and such. I have a friend with "swampers" on his jeep, he runs that at 4 psi. It is fiine if you are not traveling at high speeds, the problem was that they would deflate their tires for off road, then drive on the paved roads at high speeds with the low tire pressure.

The real problem was that salesmen would tell people to lower the tire pressure if they wanted a better ride, I was told this at one point too. Think of a flat tire and how the tire buldges at the bottom. If you rotate that tire like that a 1,000 times a minute, that is alot of flexing for the side wall, eventually that causes heat (heat of deformation) that heat accumlates and eventually will melt and weaken the polymer structure causing a blow out. It makes sence that higher temperature climates would blow out first because the ambient temperature is higher, so it does not require as much heat to deform.

The tire was fine when properly inflated, both Ford and Firestone said this. But if the valve stem devolped a leak (or someother way pressure was lost) and the driver did not notice (which is quite common), a blow out could occur, and this is why they where recalled.

If the tire was a little over inflated, there would be little to no problems with that specific tire. As I said earlier, I run my tires according to what the tire says and am aware that under heavier loads the tire needs to be inflated to a max of 65 psi, so when hualing something, I make sure the cold tire psi is not above the stated pressure :shrug:

shroomster 11-21-2005 09:06 PM

:clap: <<<JRFISH

I just wish a shop around here had nitrogen.... my front dr. tire always loses about 6 p.s.i a month...I gotta stay away from the Taco Bell....

ncirom2003 11-21-2005 09:35 PM


Originally Posted by Jrfish007
It was a compound problem in the sidewalls that under low pressure the adhesion of the polymer would termintate if under to high of sheer pressure. The guy next to at work was working at Firestone when that happened, he watched the team that found that particular flaw and what caused it. It was a catalyst supplier problem in the end, bad catalyst = bad product.

Those people in the south where doing a lot of off roading, it is common practice to deflate the tires for off roading to increase the abilty to grip, the tire "forms" around the rocks and such. I have a friend with "swampers" on his jeep, he runs that at 4 psi. It is fiine if you are not traveling at high speeds, the problem was that they would deflate their tires for off road, then drive on the paved roads at high speeds with the low tire pressure.

The real problem was that salesmen would tell people to lower the tire pressure if they wanted a better ride, I was told this at one point too. Think of a flat tire and how the tire buldges at the bottom. If you rotate that tire like that a 1,000 times a minute, that is alot of flexing for the side wall, eventually that causes heat (heat of deformation) that heat accumlates and eventually will melt and weaken the polymer structure causing a blow out. It makes sence that higher temperature climates would blow out first because the ambient temperature is higher, so it does not require as much heat to deform.

The tire was fine when properly inflated, both Ford and Firestone said this. But if the valve stem devolped a leak (or someother way pressure was lost) and the driver did not notice (which is quite common), a blow out could occur, and this is why they where recalled.

If the tire was a little over inflated, there would be little to no problems with that specific tire. As I said earlier, I run my tires according to what the tire says and am aware that under heavier loads the tire needs to be inflated to a max of 65 psi, so when hualing something, I make sure the cold tire psi is not above the stated pressure :shrug:

good to know, i didnt know it was a problem that the adhesion broke down under heat. i thought it was just not adhered properly and would rip off under stressful situations. stupid blue oval! oh and people are kinda dumb to drive around with such low tire pressure thinking nothings wrong (talkin about off road hobbiests)
oh and im willing to bet another cause for this was people inflating the tire while it was hot and not compensating for the extra pressure needed. i see people do this allllll the damn time.

Jrfish007 11-22-2005 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by ncirom2003
good to know, i didnt know it was a problem that the adhesion broke down under heat. i thought it was just not adhered properly and would rip off under stressful situations. stupid blue oval! oh and people are kinda dumb to drive around with such low tire pressure thinking nothings wrong (talkin about off road hobbiests)
oh and im willing to bet another cause for this was people inflating the tire while it was hot and not compensating for the extra pressure needed. i see people do this allllll the damn time.

Well part of the problam is that Ford prides them self on having the smoothest riding truck. As every body knows the tire plays a huge roll in that, if the side wall is somewhat flexible and soft it will give more when you hit a bump and create a smoother ride. The bad thing is, to make it more flexible, you weaken the strength of the polymer (i.e. use longer polymer chains with less adhesion), so it will break down faster than it should.

So yeah, Ford was just tring to keep their trucks smooth by having Firestone make a soft side wall on the tire. It was fine and dandy until Firestone's supplier made a slight change in the polymer catalyst, which then made slight change in the polymer (made it a little weaker), which then caused these problems while the tire was under inflated.

On a side note, Ford is now pushing for tire inflation warning lights to be intalled on all their car and trucks and tring to make it into a industry standard lol

Jrfish007 11-22-2005 08:29 AM


Originally Posted by Shroomster
:clap: <<<JRFISH

I just wish a shop around here had nitrogen.... my front dr. tire always loses about 6 p.s.i a month...I gotta stay away from the Taco Bell....


Nitrogen is mostly useless in normal tires. The reason for nitrogen is to prevent oxidation of the inside of the walls of the tire. No oxygen inside the tire, no oxidation. Oxidation of the rubber in side the tire will weaken it over time. But the normal person only uses his/her tires for about 60,000 mile, maybe 75,000 if you are really lucky (or 30,000 if you're like me :D ). But anyway, nitrogen prevents this oxidation, so where is it inportant? When you use your tire for a LONG time. Semi's use their side walls for about 250,000 miles, they just keep retreading them, so over that many miles the sidewall can become oxidized and eventually weaken, causing a blow out when under a heavy load.

The idea that Nitrgoen will expand less than air is mostly bs. It is slightly true, but you talking about maybe a 0.1 psi difference, if that. For the most part, all the air in your tire (rather it be nitrgen or normal air) is all pretty much consdiered idea gas and falls under the ideal gas law of PV=nRT.

But I know some people like nitrogen, so each person their own :shrug:

As for the Taco Bell, if you find the solution let me know :D


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