it's for the people who dont have time and dont know to do it ......

thats understandable.....my apologies to those ppl

Can you post a place online where you can get the 8 8g and 4g gold wire terminals for $5??? Every shop I go to sells them for $5 for just 3 of the terminals

QUESTION!! my kits are 38. bucks shipped. if you subtratct shipping thats 30.00 bucks a kit. its a good deal think aobut it, and quality assured!! over 100 kits sold!!

I ordered one from happies 713. It's pretty cheap and you don't have to worry about cutting and splicing. It's all ready to go. Can't wait to get mine and install it. :)

4G and 8G, do i use either one for specific place or do i just choose what i would use?
if its just my choice then whats the difference between using 4G and using 8G?
can u guys plz explain a little detail about installing it?

install is very simple. remove bolt and replace bolt with the ring teminal under the bolt.

Ground the tranny, engine block, valve cover, intake manifold, chassis. or any where else you may thing the engine may need.

yes but a question.. How to run them:

Start from the battery (point A) and go to pt. B, then from pt. B go to pt. C etc?

or

Battery (Point. A) to pt.B, then pt. A to pt. C, then pt. A to pt. D... etc?

Cause I'm a DIYer so I'll go out and buy my own 4g wire and splice and crimp.. (i like doing it :cool: ) But I'll replace my original grounds (battery, to chassis, to trans) and the one from the engine block to the chassis.. (if you stand infront of your car in the middle and pop the hood.. the one right above the fans) and maybe one or 2 more locations

I'm not sure what is is ... but it's the part under the valve cover ... (hm, seeing as how I know nothing about cars ...)

So far the first method seems to have showed gains. Going from A to B to C to D. I'm doing it like the first page of this post when I get the wires.

In addition to following Happies method of daisy-chaining the wires, would replacing the factory grounds with thicker (4 gauge) cable help too?

Leave the stock grounds there, they wont do any harm, the grounding kit goes from the negative to the tanny ground, that is the only ground going to the negative terminal, the grounding kit should add to that.

so im assuming u just replace all the stock ground positions with the new wires?

JDMCIVIC Review of the kit.
Ground Wire KIT INSTALLED!! (PICS)

Han and I installed this kit yesterday but I didnt have time to take pictures cause the sun came down, so I took some today after work. I got the silver ground wire kit and we installed it in like half an hour. Installation could have been faster but there was one screw that was a bitch to get to, cause I dont have an intake anymore, but if you have an intake it should be easier to reach. This kit is totally worth it. I noticed some differences right away when I first drove my car. First was my system, the speakers sounded louder and bass was a little better. The car was idling a bit smoother and acceleration was a bit smoother too. At night I can tell that my stock lights were a bit brighter. I just had the kit installed so I cant measure mileage yet, but I will post up if I get any improvements in mileage. There are probably way more improvements that this kit had on my car, but I havent noticed them yet. The ground wire kit I got was silver so it could be hard to see in the pics but you can see them if you look closer. Overall, I recommend this kit to anyone who wants a cheap but effective mod to their car that doesnt require much time or work with noticeable results. Han is a good vendor and easy to deal with. Give him a call if you are interested and he's posted in the GB section.]


The stock ground wire is kept there, but my wires are added on.

sorry if the install pics are crappy in the first post. i will try to get better ones.

Yes... If you want to, do that first do it and see if it helps... I bet it will.

the reason why there are two wires going out from negative terminal is that one goes to tranny and another goes to radiator support right?
stock ground is the one from the negative terminal to the tranny? is that all stock has? should i replce it? or just leave it and start from the tranny? or just leave it and start from the negative terminal so in result i have two wires that go from the negative terminal to the tranny?


is there any risk that the rubber part melt down by the engine heat?

is there any risk from installing the wires to everywhere i want to?

can someone explain details about how to make the wires with gold plate and that black part and what kinda wire should i use 4G or 8G?

get some 4 gauge ring terminals from the stereo shop.
4 gauge is what every one wants these days, not 8 gauge.

no risk, if you keep the wire away from hot engine parts then the wire should be fine.

everywhre you want to, it depends where?

leave the stock ground and just add my grounding kit. =) in my kit one wire goes from the negative to the tranny point just like stock, it woulnt do any harm to leave the stock grouding point.

spooldswede from www.EvolutionM.net

this is most definitely worth it!.. i felt a very significant improvement in responsiveness!.. the car even sounds different! to happy!! thanks man!
http://a7.cpimg.com/image/8F/36/2089...-02000180-.jpg
http://a5.cpimg.com/image/51/34/2089...-02000180-.jpg
http://a9.cpimg.com/image/5F/34/2089...-02000180-.jpg
http://a4.cpimg.com/image/78/35/2089...-02000180-.jpg
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/9D/36/2089...-02000180-.jpg

lancer evo 8!!

The ignition system is coil based. The voltage coming to the coil is not the voltage that actually passes to the spark plug. There are two coiled wires that are parallel to each other. When current is pushed down the primary side (ECU SIDE) it causes a magnetic field in the secondary side. This actually PULLS current suddenly from the ground. Your ignition power is produced from your grounds on the engine. Why you feel improvement with better grounding system? Resistance is the reason. Every time a wire must change metals or contacts there is a loss of overall voltage. This system uses Siamese coils. This means that there is a lost spark. What does that mean? Depending on the routing, there is a spark plug that sparks when there is no fuel to combust. Why it happens? In Siamese coils, the first plug in line uses voltage from the electrode to arc to the ground, on the second plug it uses that voltage coming from ground to spark to the electrode.

By grounding the system better, you give the engine a much better path for this voltage to accumulate through. Electricity will find the path of least resistance. Using grounding straps or thicker wires is like putting a highway through a downtown highly populated area. Yes, the surface streets move people out of the city. A highway just moves them out faster and with much more volume. Spark increases in intensity and that is why you see improvements in mileage and hp. You are getting a more complete combustion.

Other electrical components operate better because they also don’t have to fight all the changes in resistance and flow. If a headlamp is trying to get power, trace the routes it takes to ground. You will notice a small improvement by just jumping it straight to the battery. I did a small experiment on my Toyota Tacoma to figure out how the wiring worked. I took my fog lights and used a Scottish connector to wire it to the ground wire of the head lamp. What this got me was a fog light that ran no matter the settings on my head lamp. It was getting voltage on both high and low.

More grounds won’t help your starting or cranking time. This is due to ground wires and positive wires coming straight to the starter from the battery. You can’t get much better than that. Audio profiles have been doing this for years since the demands for more power from the stereo is so high, they would actually melt grounds on the engine. At least that was the case of my friends before they put capacitors in line to relieve some of the line pressure drawn by their subs.

Critics who doubt the usefulness of a very well grounded electronics system should learn a little about ignition systems and current flow. On a Yamaha engine, ONE ground can stop the engine completely from running. If that engine had multiple grounds to feed from, it would never have stopped. Why manufacturers haven’t pounced on this? Manufacturing costs of the process. They would have to pay a person to mount the grounds, cut the grounds, verify the grounds, another to procure the grounds, and another engineer to decide what spots were best and what gauge. All this takes a LOT of money, so they will continue to use the least costly way.

From matrixowners.com

hmm ... I just installed a grounding wire kit (not from you, happy... sorry ... hehe) ... it's from Linage. Anyway ... I did not mount it to the tranny .. but I mounted from negative to firewall to strut tower bar, to valve cover, to radiator support and back to the negative. O well. I don't know what I'm doing anyway.

Ok, so I reset my ecu and I notice a HELL of a lot more low end ... but I might've been robbed of high end ... not sure ... I need to do a couple speed tests and I'll post again in a day or so ;P ... but that is my butt dyno

so there are gonna two wires, one stock one new, that go from the negative terminal to the tranny??

where else does EX coupe have stock grounding?

There is also that grounding cable from engine to chassis in the very front of the car in the middle. I think leaving the stock grounds alone and adding the new kit would be best. I've heard many audio cables aren't 100% copper and won't work as well as stock.

What about resetting the ecu? How do you properly do this, or should I just leave the battery connected during the install.

sure, why not, go ahead and reset the ECU! it shouldnt do any harm. just loose your radio stations.

i just installed the your ground kit..

i ran from neg. terminal to radiator support...radiator support to valve cover
and from neg. terminal to firewall...

i have two cables left over to stick somewhere...i may play around with my configuration

upon starting the car i turned on the radio and it sounded soooo much better...i just have some kenwoods in the back and a cheap amp amping my cerwin vega fronts...

i havnt really driven enough to see if there's any performance improvement...seems like there was but it might be in my head...but my stereo DEFINATLY sounds better...i had the same cd in the car and was listening to the same songs with the same headunit settings...

sweet cheap mod :tup:

:clap: :clap: another satisfied customer for Happies713 :clap: :clap:

I just got my kit in the mail from happies, earlier than expected. I'm going to install right now and post back later with the results!!

is it better to install them from negative terminal to A to B to C
or from negative terminal to A, negative terminal to B, negative terminal to C?? which one works better?

if i ground it to the car body, doesnt it increase the chances of eletric shock or something?
is there any place that i must not ground?

hey, I'm wondering. rather than mount to the valve cover, why not mount directly here?

http://gametrax.net/ground.jpg

IMO it looks cleaner, but I dunno if it's a good idea, simply because i don't know what would happen if I ground that particular area. would grounding there still be equal to grounding the valve cover? looks like it's a more central location, i'm just not sure how the current would flow in the 2 variations.... someone please give me your feedback :)