miss cyl 2 & 4,,
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miss cyl 2 & 4,,
Last friday on way to work it stared skipping, got a ride home and went back sat and checked plugs, #2 was oily, and 4 was weak, Put in new Plugs. and limped it home. Had to order cap and wires,, Now after putting on a new cap, rotor , and wires its still skiping. any ideas what coud be causing this?
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Re: miss cyl 2 & 4,,
What are you calling "skipping"?
I picture.....
That term really isn't in my automotive vocabulary. I guess use of that word may be a regional thing?
Yes, compression test if it's a dead hole miss.
Is it intermittent misses? Misses under load?
Got pics of the plugs you pulled out?
I picture.....
That term really isn't in my automotive vocabulary. I guess use of that word may be a regional thing?
Yes, compression test if it's a dead hole miss.
Is it intermittent misses? Misses under load?
Got pics of the plugs you pulled out?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: miss cyl 2 & 4,,
Figure out how to do the test correctly then post your results.
NVM. Here
Engine is all warmed up to operating temperature
Strong battery, maybe even keep a charger on it during test (cranking speed must be consistent throughout the test, a weak battery can skew the results)
remove all spark plugs
disable the ignition (unplug distributor harness)
brick the gas pedal to the floor or use your foot if you are cranking with the key (I usually run the starter from the engine compartment when easily accessible so I use a prop to keep the gas pedal to the floor)
install tester, position gauge where you can see it from the drivers seat (if no helper is available)
crank the engine, keep cranking until the gauge can't climb any higher, plus another few hits just to make sure it's really maxed out the gauge (count hits in your head)
Write down the test result
repeat for each cylinder
NVM. Here
Engine is all warmed up to operating temperature
Strong battery, maybe even keep a charger on it during test (cranking speed must be consistent throughout the test, a weak battery can skew the results)
remove all spark plugs
disable the ignition (unplug distributor harness)
brick the gas pedal to the floor or use your foot if you are cranking with the key (I usually run the starter from the engine compartment when easily accessible so I use a prop to keep the gas pedal to the floor)
install tester, position gauge where you can see it from the drivers seat (if no helper is available)
crank the engine, keep cranking until the gauge can't climb any higher, plus another few hits just to make sure it's really maxed out the gauge (count hits in your head)
Write down the test result
repeat for each cylinder
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Got My compreesion test done: cyl 1- 175, cyl 2- 0, cyl 3- 180, cyl 4- 175. Not too good, didnt bother to do wet test after 2 came up 0. so whats the prognosis? could it be a carboned up valve or more peobably blown ring?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: miss cyl 2 & 4,,
2 is a dead hole
Next I would verify the valve clearance is correct, because tight valves (lack of proper clearance or lash) not only can cause low compression, it can cause valves to burn.
Then research 'cylinder leakage' test or 'cylinder leakdown' test. Pressurize the bad cylinder so you can determine where the leakage is and narrow the cause down to a pinpoint.
Next I would verify the valve clearance is correct, because tight valves (lack of proper clearance or lash) not only can cause low compression, it can cause valves to burn.
Then research 'cylinder leakage' test or 'cylinder leakdown' test. Pressurize the bad cylinder so you can determine where the leakage is and narrow the cause down to a pinpoint.
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