Rep Power: 0

Right now coolant is overflowing the reservoir and because of that the radiator will not stay full.

I have had issues with the heat not working and im guessing its because the radiator will not stay full. The heat works when throttle is applied. but not at idle = low coolant in radiator I believe.

Car does not overheat.

Last year I thought it was a t stat issue so I changed it but still the issue is there.

The a/c does not work all the time either FWIW but I don't think all these things have anything to do with that.

What could be going on here? Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 211

you need a new head gasket,

lots of info on this site with your specific issue,

whatever you do, DO NOT let the engine overheat, or you will need a new head along with the gasket

hope you have alot of $$$ saved up, or a high limit credit card

 
Rep Power: 0

How can you come to the conclusion its a head gasket? You sound pretty sure...

Anything else I can check before jumping the gun on a head gasket?

 
Rep Power: 368

sticky thread, around the top of the page. We keep them on the top, so people will look at them before asking :P

YOU are NOT ALONE!


https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html



click link above ^

but DO read there, and post back here, not in there. we condensed the posts there to keep important information only in there, nothing else.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok, thanks.

I just don't know why my coolant temp is NOT over heating though.

 
Rep Power: 368

read

 
Rep Power: 187

It didn't loose enough coolant to cause it to overheat.

It's your head gasket. It's probably, if not, the most common engine failure component in the seventh gen civic. Symptoms vary slightly from one vehicle to the next but the blowing coolant out the reservoir is the biggest symptom that it is the HG.

Get it replaced ASAP.

 
Rep Power: 519

It WILL overheat if you lose enough liquid from the radiator

 
Rep Power: 0

It won't overheat, because the rad cap is maintaining spec pressure in the system.

As long as there's proper flow through the system, and cooling air to remove heat, that system will continue to remain at op temp on the gauge, until the pressure from combustion gases leaking into the coolant jacket pushes out enough coolant to expose the head to air -- at which point the head will warp, and push the cost of this job a lot further upward.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks a lot guys!

 
Rep Power: 0

Well guys there's a lot of black soot residue on the insides of the radiator and reservoir. Further confirmation of a head gasket

Also, 5-10 sec after taking the radiator cap off, there is a big burp coming from the radiator.

 
Rep Power: 368

You not going to read the link?!?

we posted on the first post HOW TO Diagnose the gasket!!!

the link AGAIN:
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html

here, a quick look:

"how to test? cheap way 1: Thanks, Scotty!)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezone View Post
Good numbers. Well under 10% variation too.

Stick the reservoir hose in a container of water set up where you can see it, watch for bubbles coming up while you let it run?
All you need is a way to see the coolant level change or air bubbles coming up through it. I mentioned the funnel because that is what I use, most convenient for me.

Some of them don't want to leak much until the engine has a load on it, and pressure in the radiator reduces how much gets past the head gasket.
It's like $32, and damn handy if you do any regular work on cars. Too many will pass this test, yet still have a head gasket problem. Not reliable enough for me.
Correct.
Quote:
Originally Posted by scooty View Post
So blown head gasket it is then

I attached some rubber tubing to where the overflow reservoir hose attaches to the radiator filler neck and immersed the other end in an open container full of coolant. Please see attached video to the see the bubbles:

There are no bubbles at idle but you can clearly see a stream of bubbles when I rev it up.

Is this enough confirmation of a blown HG to warrant removing the head and replacing the gasket?
You Tube

Cheap method 2: (Thanks, ezone!, including your "own style" comment :P)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezone View Post
Compression test will not show you this problem.

I would stick a funnel-fill funnel on the radiator

and let it run, watch for an endless slow stream of bubbles coming up.
If the engine seems to never finish burping its air out, then my next step is to put shop air pressure on each cylinder to see and prove which one is leaking.
I'm darn lazy and I don't like pulling a head without definite proof, and that test is proof enough for me.

You have read threads where I talk more about this method, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezone View Post

Half of the bad head gaskets I see on this engine will pass every test you guys have mentioned. These almost never leak externally. These almost always leak from the combustion chamber into the cooling system, and that's it. That's all.

My procedure:
Start with a hot engine, pull out plugs and rad cap:
Pressurize each cylinder (@TDC, one at a time) with shop air line pressure 170+ PSI. Watch for the coolant level to rise when you get to the bad one. (sometimes this is a slow process)
If no results, then wait for the engine to cool down and repeat this same procedure on each cylinder.

If it passes this test, then it's probably ok right now. "

 
Rep Power: 0

I bought a Napa combustion leak/block test kit. Says the blue fluid is supposed to turn yellow if combustion gasses are present but mine turns green. I'm assuming maybe the HG leak is not really bad yet and that's the reason its green not yellow.
I have a HG kit on its way. Gonna start taking it apart and get the head resurfaced. I plan on using the old bolts I believe they are fine.
Does the alternator absolutely have to come out? The bottom bolt is stuck pretty good. Tried to take it out few wks ago and I gave up in fear of snapping it.

 
Rep Power: 314

Use OEM parts is all I'm going to say Everyone above has nailed it.

 
Rep Power: 368

If you had read, you could have done that with a bucket, a hose, some water in the bucket... and the gas to run the engine for a while...

oh, well, some people never listens...

 
Rep Power: 0

Wow. Maybe I did not want to use the bucket? Maybe I did read the thread? Maybe I had my reasons to do what I did? Ever think about that? I happen to like the kit I bought and plan on using it on other cars....understand?

Oh, well, some people just think they know it all and are so narrow mindedzzz...

 
Rep Power: 519

Easily 90% of these head gasket failures will pass this test, no problem.
That's why I can't rely on it.
I have to use tests that work every time.
The failure (combustion leakage) has to be pretty rapid in order for this test to show a failure with a block checker kit.

The test method I personally use to test on this particular pattern failure has proven every bad one and has not failed to show a breach yet.


Head bolts are reused. No need to replace.

IF I don't have to replace the timing belt during the job, then I do not touch the alternator at all.

But if you have to replace the timing belt, then the alt and its large bracket MUST come out. Now would be the time to get it taken care of.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you and I appreciate your professionalism sir.


Timing belt/water pump was done not too long ago so hopefully I can do what you do. That will be a big relief. That lower alternator bolt is stuck in there pretty good.

Thank you again

 
Rep Power: 519

Quote:

I am assuming your method is this?...

Yep, you found it.

Quote:

Thank you again

You're welcome.


EDIT: If the head measures within specs for flatness (max warp spec 0.002" IIRC), then it does not need machined. Have your machine shop inspect it if you don't have a precision straightedge yourself.

 
Rep Power: 314

My suggestion too is if that bolt is stuck really good it's been over torqued. While stuff is outta there you might gain easier access to the bolt. Try to free it up and torque it properly. Just to save trouble if you have to get it removed later.

 
Rep Power: 0

Definitely a job for the machine shop.




Ill see what I can do while I have the stuff off the car LOL.

 
Rep Power: 0

What line one the crank pulley do I find TDC? My book says the white line but there is no colors. There are three lines on the left bunched together and then one line to the right when looking at the face of pulley. I think its the last line to the right?

 
Rep Power: 519

Crank pulley spins COUNTERclockwise.

As you rotate the crank, the first pulley marks to go by the pointer (pointer on the timing cover) are the ignition timing marks: Approx 14, 12 and 10 (random guesses) degrees before top dead center. The last mark to reach the pointer is the TDC mark.
Your cam gear SHOULD be lined up on its timing marks at this time.

If the word UP on the cam gear is near the bottom, spin the crank one more turn and recheck.



Make sense?



You could also stick a long screwdriver in the #1 plug hole and watch it rise as the piston comes up. You can verify TDC this way if you are careful.

 
Rep Power: 368

ezone already explained to you why i had to reply that way, so i will leave this as is.
glad that you read it and that your test kit actually showed a result (like ezone mentioned, many do it, do not get results and keep on going to be in denial they need a head gasket) and the money for the test kit was simply... wasted.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ended up having to remove the alternator and bracket. This is my first time doing this so I felt better seeing more around the head. Bottom alternator bolt came out fine thank god LOL.

The place I ordered head bolts from informed me they didn't have the bolts in stock after 4 days of ordering them. Oh well, save me $65 I'll use the old ones. They are not torque to yield correct?

I have a compression gauge I use for TDC so didn't have to use the screwdriver

Getting those 3 bottom intake manifold nuts/bolts are a PITA! I broke the oil pressure sender and had to get a new one. Has anyone ever tried mating the intake to the head and then installing them at both at one time? It looks like I should be able to do that unless I'm not seeing something.

The injectors/fuel rail did not come out smooth at all. The tops/tips and o rings on a couple of the injectors were stuck in the holes. Had to put them back together. They look alright I hope they are ok.

The head and gasket didn't look horrible but there were a few spots it looks like there was exhaust blowing past the gasket. The head is at the machine shop and should be ready tomorrow.

So pretty much I'll be prepping tomorrow and waiting for the head.

 
Rep Power: 519

Correct. Standard bolts.
I reuse these all the time.


Comp gauge gets you on the right stroke.
The timing mark gets you on TDC.
The screwdriver is something I use so I don't have to keep looking at the damn mark on the pulley when I'm adjusting valves or looking for other cylinders at TDC. I just use it so I KNOW when any particular piston is up or down.

EDIT: If the valve cover is off, I actually watch the valves opening and closing to tell which is on compression stroke and TDC.

Some people think it's easier that way.
I personally prefer to leave the intake manifold laying on the engine when I pull the head.
Sup to you. YMMV
I spray carb and throttle cleaner on the rubber seals so they slide out of the holes easier. Use the same to install them too. Get them wet and they slide right in.

Do NOT use spray silicone lube!
Silicone can ruin O2 sensors.
About the only thing you ever see (unless absolutely horribly blown and burned) is the black coating cooked off in a couple spots around a cylinder or two.

 
Rep Power: 0

Oh yes I see what you mean. I like the gauge a lot. As soon as I see the needle move I will watch the marks on the pointer for TDC. I took a pic of the lines on crank pulley and it looks like at one time there could have been a red and while line. The white was the last line. Its all good.

You think its easier to install the head first and then the intake? It was a circus for me to get a wrench up in there to brake loose those 3 nuts/bolts. Only thing I could think of when I was taking it apart is how the hell am I going to get my hand up in there to thread these nuts/bolts in! But now I am imagining installing intake on head first. I hope it works. The intakes 3 nuts/bolts was the toughest part for me.

Thanks for the tip I will use the spray carb.

Yes exactly! It looked like the black stuff burned off in a few spots with a little soot stain.

 
Rep Power: 519

My preference. I have the cool tools that can get on all the fasteners without a problem.

Other people may not, they seem to find it easier to leave the intake attached to the head and pull it all as a complete unit.

Don't break that plastic intake.

 
Rep Power: 0

I would also prefer head on/intake on. When you try to install the intake on the head first, 1) you may tempted to set the head on the bench with the cam installed (which will bend valves), and 2) you may be tempted to grab the intake as leverage to get the head on.

Plus, this way you have an excuse to get nifty tools you will definitely have use for later as an owner wrench. Make the investment at Sears; you won't regret it. Cracking that pricey manifold though...

 
Rep Power: 0

Good points! Those nifty tools...IDK what tools would replace my fingers trying to thread those 3 bolts back in. Then being able to torque to spec? IDK of any torque wrench that would fit up there. Do you guys actually torque those to spec?
Had to use a tiny combination wrench to take it apart.