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The radiator fan is not turning on.

I let the car run for about 10 minutes, but the radiator fan is not turning on.

I jumped the fan directly to the battery, and the fan worked.

I paper-clipped the wires that go into the thermoswitch, and with the ignition switch turned to On (II), the fan was working.

I replaced the cooling fan switch, ran the car again, but the fan was not turning on. Currently, I put the old switch back on.

What else can I try?

 
Rep Power: 518

What makes you think the radiator fan NEEDS to run at the times you are looking at it?
What is the temp of the coolant at the fan switch at this time?

Why do you think the radiator fan needs to run with the AC on?


Sure sounds like the radiator fan will run exactly when it is supposed to.




Did you mean the condensor fan?

 
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How do I check the coolant temperature at the fan switch?

No, I meant the radiator fan. I read somewhere that turning on the AC will make the radiator fan turn on more quickly. Maybe that's irrelevant.

Is there a way to test whether the fan comes on when it should?

Thank you for your reply.

 
Rep Power: 518

Cheapest way is with your fingers. Feel the fan switch.
If it burns your fingers, it's probably hot (switch turns on at around 200*F).
If no burn, then it's not hot enough to run the fan.

I use an infrared temp gun, they are quite handy.
I can also use a scanner and watch live engine data.

It can take a damn long time to run the fan, because almost any breeze through the radiator can keep it cool enough to not need the fan.
The design of your particular car makes this irrelevant.

Radiator and condensor, and their respective fans, are completely separate from each other on that car.

The fans are wired and controlled independently of each other, a wiring diagram would show this.

You pretty much already did.
You verified it is capable of running when you jumpered the terminals at the fan switch, and you put a new switch in.

As long as the switch is actually good, it will work when it is supposed to.


You could use a pan of water on the stove, a thermometer, and an ohmmeter to actually test the fan thermoswitch if you really want to.

YW, HTH

 
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I have an IR thermometer. Do I just direct it to the metal part of the switch, just where it meets the thermostat housing?

Would this scanner work for that purpose?


Actually, in the meantime, I have put the old switch back on.

How is this testing done?

Also, how can you plug the whole that the thermoswitch goes into? Coolant comes out of it when I take the switch out.

 
Rep Power: 518

Sure.

Experiment, because many metals have reflective properties that kinda skew temp reading accuracy.

I have found that black spray paint or black tape increases accuracy.

Looks like a simple code reader, not one that allows you to monitor live engine operating data.


Why? Most reputable parts stores have a policy of no returns on electrical parts.
Seriously? I just typed that all out.
Use the other switch.

 
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I went to O'reilly Auto, and one of their employees came out and just swapped it in the parking lot. We then started the car and after the fan didn't come on for about 10 minutes, the guy said that it must be something else, and he removed the part. He did that so quickly that by the time I realized that didn't make sense, he was already done...

I saw that you wrote that I should "use a pan of water on the stove, a thermometer, and an ohmmeter" but since I have no experience, I didn't understand what exactly to do. For example, what temperature I am looking for, whether the entire switch should be immersed in water, how to set my multimeter, etc.[/quote]

 
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Sorry, I cant ever ascertain skill levels of other people through typing.

The temp at which the switch changes states. (open contacts to closed contacts)
Set up the same way it would be in the car. The wires and terminals aren't swimming in antifreeze in the car, are they?

The threaded section separates wet from dry when it is installed in the car. Testing should be done the same way (ideally).
You would be checking a simple ON/OFF switch, so set your meter for whatever lowest ohms or continuity check it has.




Teh Googles:
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It would be far less work to simply let the engine run while monitoring the temp of the radiator hose leading to the thermostat, see when the fan comes on.

It can take a lot longer than 10 minutes. If it is cold where you are and there is any breeze at all, it might never need to run the fan.

 
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Spec for the fan switch:
Turns ON at 196-203*F,
Turns OFF at 5-15 degrees less than it turned on at.

 
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Thanks, that's really helpful!