Rep Power: 193

In the first "Road To Mani Swap" I went to the junkyard looking for a D16Y8 manifold. This will show you what kind of manifold to get, what kind of car, that kind of stuff.
Link to that here -----> https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...-junkyard.html

Now, ive heard various people say, putting the D17 throttle body on the y8 manifold is too hard. And people have tried to make adaptor plates to fit in on. If they were in my garage, their jaws would be on the floor and I would laugh in their face. HA! ..... HAHAHAHAHA!!!! Im a 17 year old highschooler, and I got it on, easily. really people? is it that hard?

Heres the only other person I know who has done it. Unfortunately, his english is not the best and he speaks turkish. Very large pictures, no description
------> http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2745541

Go, and buy this. I got this at my local hardware store for pretty cheap. You NEED a gasket between the tb and the mani, or else youll have an annoying squeek and a bouncing idle, trust me, not fun. Scared the **** out of me the first time it happened.



This is what my manifold looked like the day I got it at the yard



And here it is after a quick cleaning (still some oxidation and dirt but lets just get this swap done)



Theres the holes I drilled in the mani to bolt on the throttle body and the iacv port on the top. I used a cord drill because it seems to have a lot more power. I also used titanium drill bits (these are the gold ones) Force is a must this y8 manifold im guessing is high pressure cast aluminum. terrible for drilling



closer iacv port



Left Bolts. both should be tapped to accept the stock d17 tb bolts



Right Bolts. The top you want to tap with m6 x 1.00 and the bottom should be left stock. (port the d17 tb to fit the y8 bolt)



Heres a pic of my mistake. dont do this



heres the d17 tb without the throttle plate. you can see the bottom right hole is ported out to fit the stock y8 bolt. the throttle body is very soft metal dont screw it up





Heres all the bolts in the mani. The ones I tapped arent straight, but they fit nice and snug once I put the tb on, so its not a huge deal if you mess up. but if you screw it up enough, that sucks for you. use jb weld, idk, think of something



The mistake again





Final Product





Working on porting it out right now, pretty simple dont need a diy for that





And heres the crappy gasket I made lol



More Info:

- D17 Throttle cable should face towards the front of the car with the iacv pointing upward

- The bottom right bolt is a m8 x 1.25 you have to buy a new one from the store and make sure its long enough to hold the tb to the mani, the stock y8 is too short

- Clean the inside of your manifold really well after doing this. chances are, its filled with dirt and grime, which means all those aluminum shavings will stick very well. and you dont want that getting sucked into your engine

- In your gasket you can attach the iac port to the throttle body hole, im going to cut that little bridge I have there.

Required Tools:

- Corded Drill

- Metric Tapping Set

- Titanium Drill Bits

- Gasket Material

- Grinding Stones

Any questions, comment on this, or pm me. I check this site more than once a day ahaha

 
Rep Power: 198

Very nice. What did you use to drill? Just a regular hand drill with a metal drill bit? if so, did you have it clamped down when you were drilling?

 
Rep Power: 193

i had a plug in drill cuz its so much more powerful than a battery opertated drill. along with titanium bits (those are the gold ones). I pushed hard like a **** and pretty sure i dulled my bits pretty bad, but never broke one

 
Rep Power: 237

I don't recall this ever being 'too hard'. I did this swap way back when, and while your solution works, it is far from elegant. Now, I will be interested to see your solution for deleting EGR. With K-pro, this swap is simply a matter of making the throttle body bolt up, and the mani bolt to the head (along with a few other minor issues). However, without K-pro, you will have serious issues. The first is that it won't idle worth a damn. The second is that tip in from a stop will stumble, along with other tune related issues. And on top of the driveability issues, you still have to remove EGR.

 
Rep Power: 237

Oh yeah, I almost forgot, you have to figure out how to make injectors fit, along with a fuel rail. I found that srt-4 injectors fit quite well into the y8 mani with a little enlarging of the injector bosses on the manifold. And I just welded a couple mounting tabs onto the stock rail. Here's a few pics for some inspiration (and hopefully posterity since the diy I had on 7thgen seems to have disappeared).

 
Rep Power: 210

Would It be impossible to fabricate something for the EGR? Just seems to me like it will be an equal problem if you have to make a delete or modify the intake.

 
Rep Power: 193

I've read up on the swap many times to see if I could get anyone who knows a great deal about this, and many people said putting the d17 throttle body on the manifold was too hard. It is far from elegant, but who is going to care? If my car was a show car, then yes, I would've done it differently. But it's going to be just a fun car to drive.
And I own a 2001 Lx so my model didn't come with the EGR function And what tune related issues will i have? Other people have said it will idle bad, but no one who has actually done the swap said that. I think most people are based on theory than the actual swap. (MindBomber said he thinks the velocity of the air changes once inside the manifold...) I'm hopefully getting E-Manage soon fyi.

And I was planning to weld the d17 injector plate on the manifold, my buddy has a welding kit. But until then, i'm just working on struts.

 
Rep Power: 193

EGR doesn't need to be there, the car just needs a signal from the EGR valve and if it doesn't get that signal it throws a CEL (Check Engine Light)

 
Rep Power: 284

Don't go for emanage man, I know there's dedicated threads to it and in the early days lots of people used it, but you need stand alone once you step up with the turbo. With a piggy back the ecu will constantly be fighting the tune trying to work around it, and you won't get it to run right. Just ask xRiceboyx, he has a complete turbo kit sitting around that he installed, then actually removed, because he couldn't afford k-pro and wasn't able to get his piggy back to control it well enough. Since you're on a budget watch for a deal on a used ecu on k20a and save for it, they don't depreciate much in value on the used market so they're not a complete waste of money.

 
Rep Power: 237

Ok, look here: Don't get all butt hurt because I said your solution wasn't elegant. If it works, it works, and that's all that matters in the end. However, the car won't run right with an EGR code set. I had an 01 LX without EGR too, and I did the swap, and I'm telling you the car still won't run right. I was using an AEM F/iC, which is hands down better than the E-manage you are planning to use (don't trust me, go look). The car never ran right. I swapped back to the stock manifold, switched over to K-pro a little later, and put the mani back in. Being able to tune for it with a standalone ECU, the car ran like a charm. I made 121 hp and 111 tq on a mustang dyno with K-pro, the y8 manifold, intake and exhaust.

So in the end, do what you want, listen to me or don't. I don't care. I was just trying to pass along information that I learned the hard way back in the day. I even fried an AEM EMS trying to do this swap. I've been around the block and I know what I'm talking about. I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have.

 
Rep Power: 193

I find it so wierd that the car wont run right. Ill do the swap and if it runs like you say it will (which im guessing it will), then ill just sell the manifold to someone whos got kpro and break even.

so what were the idle symptoms?

 
Rep Power: 0

Slim Risk: On the side for future reference. You will get the best results and money's worth out of your drill bits if you use a little bit of oil while you are drilling so they don't dull. It helps when the metal is lubricated.

 
Rep Power: 0

if you put on IM do you need a new ECU as well?

 
Rep Power: 210

To put it simply - YES! You need K-Pro if you want the car to idle, and if you want to see any kind of performance benefits. You can half-*** it with a piggy-back system, but that's just a plain and simple bad idea

 
Rep Power: 0

Well Did u put that thing on or what???

 
Rep Power: 284

Lately he's mostly been talking about a k-swap..

 
Rep Power: 193

If I get k-pro I'll follow through with it. But a paint job is first on my list

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi baron340, did you weld the tb to the manufold?? How is it running? I have the setup where I just use bolts and my idle goes bonkers. I wane find a solution that runs great with the y8 setup.

 
Rep Power: 221

Thread is 7 years old ....

 
Rep Power: 0

HI, how did you weld the tb to the mani, did you use a spacer? And if you did what spacer did you use I would like to do the same to my setup. D17 tb to y8 mani. Thanx man