Rep Power: 0

Hi, Im new here and after 500 miles of this problem, its annoyed me enough to ask for help before I dive into it.

The Problem:
My civic starts fine, no noises, no stalling, no check engine light (sometimes), and on most days will run fine. Other than getting a flat tire once, its been fine for the past 65000 miles. A month ago, I started it up and when accelerating it got stuck at going to 30mph, revved high at 30 and then did a rough hit to get above that speed, the car shook and shaked and after 10ft there was a off sound like I dragged a tin can on the ground, that noise only happened for a brief second and it was fine after that day until the next week.

It went from happening from once that week, to 2-3 times the next week, and now its every day. The car has NO power whatsoever when first starting up/moving up hills/fast acceleration up to 30-32mph. After that the car runs fine until I drop below those speeds. This week the shaking started badly (this shaking usually only happens when going from 20mph to 30-32mph, then goes away) and this morning my car wouldnt move at all, I had the car in drive and was able to hit the gas until it was to the floor... car didnt move at all. Then as I took my foot off it moved slowly and hit so hard I thought someone had hit me from behind, there was a LOUD pop and the tires skipped across the driveway until I hit the brake... The check engine light came on for not even 2min, then turned off. I drove around the block and it drove fine again, until I dropped under 30.

I barely have 65000 miles on the car now, and it was fine until last month. I changed the ATF at 35000 miles, and my last oil change was at 58000 miles. I was hit from behind at 12000 miles, but it just broke the rear bumper off the mount.

Since theres no check engine light until usually random times when driving, I was wondering if anyone here has heard of this issue or had it themself? I am hoping for a pricing estimate on what it will cost to fix. I bought this car used from my neighbor when he was moving at 9k miles. Never had a issue until this and honestly I love this civic. Even with the problems I am still getting 29-32mpg weekly.

I can record a video of it if that helps anyone?

 
Rep Power: 233

Have it scanned for codes. Autozone will do it for free. Just because the light isn't on doesn't mean it doesn't have a stored code. Post back with the code(s).

 
Rep Power: 0

Got the codes:

P0730
P0741

First 2 times I went we couldn't pull the codes. Today the engine light came on and I was right by a auto zone.

 
Rep Power: 811

sounds like the trans is messed

P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio

P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

 
Rep Power: 233

Drain the ATF thru a strainer. If there's metal debris replace or rebuild the tranny. If not, replace the fluid.

The next step requires an A/T trans pressure gauge and adapter to measure pressure in the tranny. May be easier to take it to the mechanic for that.

The pressure tests can point us to the cause but, you can test those things without the pressure test to point the way.

-Find the shift control solenoids A and B. They should be on the side of the tranny and both have 2 terminal connectors. Measure for resistance between the 2 terminals of each solenoid. Resistance should be 12-25 ohms. Replace if out of resistance.

-Find the torque converter clutch solenoid valve. It's right on top of the tranny and also has a 2 terminal connector. Measure resistance between the 2 terminals of the solenoid. Resistance should be between 12-25 ohms. Replace if out of resistance.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yikes, if I have to rebuild the tranny, cars getting junked. Can't afford it.

I'll get the resistance tomorrow or Wednesday.

Hit enter too quick, thanks for telling me much appreciated and great info!

My coworker just told me his brother works at Honda and there has been many problems like this with my model. He is gonna try and find any recall info for me.

 
Rep Power: 233

Being an '05, you should be ok. They pretty much fixed the clutch pack problems by then (bad friction material). Chances are it's a solenoid so, I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.

BTW: With those miles (and it doesn't look like crap) you could still get $4000-6000 for it with a tranny that's completely gone.

EDIT: You could always do the auto to manual conversion. Manual trannys run $200-700. There's a thread about this around here somewhere...