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i have an 89 civic and now that i finally got a good job i want to do an engine swap... im planning for 350-400 RWHP i have a turbo on the d16y7 enine i have now... i want the most comon easy engine swap... b16? b18? what is better for turbo... i will be getting the pistons custom made so whatever the stock compression is it don't matter ill build it.. and please don't just say b16 or b18... make sure you add the whole block number... b16a2 or b18c1 thanks guys

 
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my best guess would be the b18c spec R

 
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I thought you peaced out haha, nice to see you back.

My vote is B18c1 or if you want something a bit different a H22a1.

I'm working on a swap faq for B series motors at the moment, there will be lots more info up soon.

 
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man its been SOOOOO busy... but now i have some $$ to spare... would have alot more to spare but i bought an 01 dodge lifted 8.5 inches rolling on 35 inch rubber... only 140000kms! its a nice looking trick that i rolled after 2 weeks of having it... so im paying for an 8000 dollar truck im not driving... lol im looking at acanadian site with direct japanese imported engines... http://www.japandirectjapanese.com/p...5&cat=1&page=1 this is the one im kinda considering.... but its expensive!! lol

 
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or this h22 for 200 more http://www.japandirectjapanese.com/p...7&cat=1&page=1

 
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Post pics of your truck!
I had a 2002 Cummins Dodge on 37's w/ an 8 inch lift, but I sold it and got my civic since I commute to work and I was spending $40 a day on diesel haha. Now I have an old beater jeep for my 4x4ing.

Buy your motor on craigslist and you'll save a ton of cash, I just picked one up for $100. As long as you competent, which you are, you don't need to buy something from an importer.

 
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I would pay an extra $200 for an H22, read through my H-series Faq, there's a link that shows what you would need to put it in an EF.

 
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ill post some pics of the dodge tomorrow after work.. its not too bad... im lucky the snow was f-ing deep... roof caved in a bit and both doors dented.. box has a dent and thats it... the massive bumper and the canopy kinda saved me too

 
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you forgot the link? lol well i have a guy with a 94 civic hatch body work just done its just in primer for 2800 obo said he would take 2200... but i just want his gs-r engine.... said if he don't sell it he may give me a pop at it for around a 1000

i would take it it would be a waste of time and money to do my d16y7?

 
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so what brand forged pistons and rods should i do? whats the better brands... wht to stay away from...
i was thinking j-e but they have to be custom made for 200 a piston then 350 for the rod kit... thats already over 1000.... and thats in my d16y7. which i don't even know is worth it... then i was thinking speed pro.... i don't know... also will i need a forged crank and camshaft? along with the apropriate bearings? anyone know if this is a half decent kit? http://cgi.ebay.ca/Honda-Civic-Turbo...item25613a6a02

 
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my dodge.... like i said not too bad for rolling over 5 times doing 100km/h:

 
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Dents add character haha. Seriosuly though, i bet the paintless dent removal guys could fix that for you cheap.

 
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answer my ?ns bomber lol... and man i had it quoted for 6200 bucks for door skins and roof skind the ones in the box will pull out

 
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H22 or B16a or a3. Everybody does gsr swaps and honestly im not to impressed with the numbers from them. Unless you do lsvtec that is, you will be disatisfied. by rwhp are you implying REAL wheel horse power or rear?

 
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by rwhp i was meaning rear wheel hp im not quite used to fwd lol i just didn't bother to change it... so ya thats hp at the front tires 350-400 hp not at the flywheel

 
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oh ok lol. yea i was kinda wondering. BHP is what i always thought to the flywheel or crank wouldve been? I could be wrong though.

 
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The faq I wrote on H-series swaps is under 6thgen swaps and turbo, my laptop died so I responding on my blackberry so my responses might not be the best. I really like H22 swaps, they have a huge displacement a great power potential, plus you don't see it every day so it would definitely be my choice. The only disadvantage to an H motor in my opinion is less used performance parts to steal great deals on. As far as building you D16, well I have three friend running 10 second 500hp++ D series motors, so it's definitely a viable option. It's just not as easy.

 
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screw it ill forge the d16.... see how it turns out then do a b18 and see what i like better

 
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Good luck I can't wait to watch this progress. It's going to take a lot of time and patience to get 350WHP to run properly and smoothly.

 
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why is that? all i really need is the time and money to put it all together then extra cash set aside for when i find the tight tuning shop and things a may need that will make it run better. it shouldn't be all that difficult? maybe in just too used to v8 carburated mud trucks lol.... should be fine as long as i find a shop or a guy that knows what hes doing with the tuning side... putting it all together i have a buddy with a mitsu gt3000 done up to about 600 hp... he said hes willing to help... that thing is hell on wheels... twin turbo... just stupid

 
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Carburated mud trucks are simple compared to a forced induction SOHC build, the tuner is a big factor but the right combination of parts is a bit tricky to figure out. Especially since your slightly more limited in your ability to adjust the fuel air mix on a single cam. Still, this will be fun to watch!

 
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fun to watch me fail lol jk ill get er... even if i have to take it to calgary ill get it

 
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If you think it's as simple as slap on a turbo and take it to a tune shop good luck to you Getting these things turboed, running, and not constantly breaking down (the last step is the hardest) takes a lot of time, patience, and money :P Again, I hope you do succeed and I can't wait to see it progress!

 
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mine is turboed, running GREAT, and not constantly breaking down right now... its all tuned and has everything right now... i just figure its time to forge the rotating assembly... get some more ponies out of her... and go threw the steering components

 
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so whats better? 2.5" turbo intake piping or 3"?

 
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[QUO
TE=civicnewb;4519400]so whats better? 2.5" turbo intake piping or 3"?[/QUOTE]

At the moment 2.5 is probably perfect and 3 might not give you quite enough back pressure without the boost running really high, but once you upgrade to a larger turbo it will become contrictive. Part of why your engine still runs great is because you still stock internals

 
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Yours is turboed right now but is it 350 whp, and reliable? I'm not trying to be negative! I just wanna make sure you know what your getting yourself into! Don't forget to post LOTS of pictures... pple here LOVE to see builds.

 
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yes mine is turboed right now... my best guess is it is at 200 hp. have hardly driven it due to steering and suspension needing work.... this car is going to be a sleeper.... on the plus side i have all you guys if i run into problems !!

and so it begins.... i probably won't start the actual build for a few weeks... but i got it in the shop... this car is stupid quiet... when its idling you can't hear it run, so first things first i cut the muffler out.. do i want to go 3" exhaust? looks like mine is 2.25 right now... car sounds 10x better now

HAD to get a shot with the super bee project in the back!! and another coronet 500 beside it under a cover





As you can see this won't be just an engine build.... the interior needs some work





TIME TO GET CRACKIN

 
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Whoe whoe whoe... you want a sleeper but you don't wait it to be quiet? You think the muffler being cut out (I'm assuming no muffler) is better than it being quiet? Oh boy... put that muffler back on A.S.A.P. It needs some serious cleanup but definitely doable. Fart cannon does not sound good

 
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Your interior shots reminded me how mush I've always liked EF steering wheels. Just like the turbo piping, in time you will definitely need a 3'' exhaust.