Rep Power: 0

Hi,

I got the check engine light on and this is my story.

I went to Honda dealers for regular oil change for my 2001 Honda Civic EX. After changing oil I think they checked for problems and they said I need to change the following parts,

Muffler and B-Pipe
Spark Flugs
Front Brakes (Pads)
Front Engine Mount
Front Sway Bar End Links.

Actually, I don't have any problems other than the Muffler Set. He told around $1500+ for everything.

Then I went to one mechanic shop that was located in rural area and I explained them about the list mentioned. The mechanic has one collision 2005 Honda Civic EX with him and mechanic told me that he can give his Muffler set for $100. I agreed for that and I bought remaining parts and mechanic replaced the parts. After changing the Muffter, mechanic unpluged the battery for few minutes.

When I was driving from mechanic shop I didn't get any Check Engine light on. But, When I started car at second time I got check engine light on then I tighten the fuel cap. after 3rd drive from tighten the fuel cap, the check engine light was gone. Next day when I started the car, I got the check engine light on again.

What I have to do now? Is there any simple solution (Tricks) for this.

Please help me regarding this.
Thank You,
Eswar

 
Rep Power: 513

get the code read and let us know what the actual code is. It's kinda hard to diagnose what your problem could be from that.

 
Rep Power: 293

Agreed

Or if you want a quick fix
Unplug the negative terminal on your battery, then tap the terminal to the negative post to create a "spark"

Then put the terminal back on the battery post
Hopefully that will reset whatever is screwed up

Works in some cars, did it to my dad's volvo and CEL turned off for good

 
Rep Power: 236

No, that won't do it. With the ignition off pull the #6 ECM/PCM fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds.

 
Rep Power: 209

I am sorry but what the heck is a B pipe?

 
Rep Power: 0

One of the part of muffler set

 
Rep Power: 216

Lol its the mid portion of the exhaust or what people call the mid pipe. The correct term is b pipe though.

But to the OP get the code read at see what code it is throwing and get back to us.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey Today I went to Mechanic and told the problem. He disconnected the battery and also unplugged the #6 ECM/PCM for almost a minute. The Check engine light was gone when i was coming from mechanic. Then I put my ignition on II and the check engine light was on for 20 sec then switched off. After few hours when I started the car the light was gone and later in 30 seconds the light came on again. Now, I am driving with light on.

Any suggestion what I have to do next?

 
Rep Power: 209

Wow I've been working on cars for years and never heard that term! Is that a japenese car thing?

 
Rep Power: 513

I've heard it called b-pipe before, but I still call it a mid-pipe.

 
Rep Power: 216

Go get the code read at autozone.

 
Rep Power: 368

So it's actually a bid-pipe?

 
Rep Power: 216

You could say that

 
Rep Power: 513

Mid-bipe, actually.. lol

 
Rep Power: 368

 
Rep Power: 513

Haha, we all hella dumb..

 
Rep Power: 293

OP: Try the battery suggestion, if it doesnt work, then just get it read and post on forums again, then we can point you in the general direction

 
Rep Power: 513

I still say give us the code anyways, just as a precaution.

I did a motor mount swap (front engine and auto tranny mounts) on my aunt's 02 accord lx sedan and afterward it threw a P0135 (O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction, Bank 1, Sensor 1). I reset the code with my reader and it hasn't come back since. I told my aunt to keep an eye out for a light though.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi All,

I went to Autozone today and they have given the code P0135 and saying Definition

aaA/F sensor 1 heater system malfunction

Problem cause

aa1.- Open or short circuit condition
aa2.- Poor Electrical Connection
aa3.- Faulty A/F Sensor 1

Are these major issues? or Can I ignore them?

 
Rep Power: 293

Not really

Just check ur fuses, wiring

and replace the sensor

 
Rep Power: 236

@ eswar_ner: Just to make sure, the mechanic only changed the 2 pieces, not the whole exhaust system, right?

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi,

I thought I mentioned this. Sorry if not mentioned.

The mechanic changed the complete exaust set from Engine to last muffler part.

For this reason am I getting the check engine light on?

Thank you

 
Rep Power: 236

Including the sensors? You can't put an '05 sensor (wideband) on an '01 system (narrow).

 
Rep Power: 236

If that's not it I can tell ya how to test that sensor (reeeal easy, takes like 10-15 minutes) or you can replace that sensor and hope for the best.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you very much But I don't know which are the sensors. While mechanic changing the muffler set, I saw two wires at two places in entire muffler set (entire Exaust set). Are these two connectors are the sensors that you are saying?

I don't know the Muffler units car's Year but I saw the VIN No and starts with 1.

Let me know how to test the sensors so that I can check them.

 
Rep Power: 236

At the end of those wires was there a thing looked kinda like a perforated metal plug? If there wasn't then he changed the sensor. See if you can get the old one back from the mechanic, if not you need a new one. If there was then I'll tell ya how to check the sensor.

 
Rep Power: 236

How to check a P0135 code (part 1):

Tools needed: Multimeter

1. With the ignition off, disconnect the primary HO2S (sensor 1) 4P connector. This is the one below the engine.

2. At the primary HO2S side, measure resistance between terminals 3 and 4:


Is there between 10-40 ohms?

YES- Go to step 3

NO- Replace the primary HO2S

3. Check for continuity between body ground and terminals 3 and 4 individually:


Is there continuity?

YES- Replace the primary HO2S

NO- Go to step 4

*This is just the first half. If you need more tell me

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi All,

First, Thank you very much to all for helping me regarding issues.

Today, I went to mechanic with Autozone Report. The mechanic has changed Sensor 1 with my old Exaust Set's Sensor1. Now, I am not getting Check Engine light on. I am hoping that it was fixed.

Thank you
Eswar

 
Rep Power: 0

Hi all
I have the same problem with my 2002 ex civic. When I bought the car 2 months ago the check engine sensor was on and the owner sad to me that the oxygen sensor is bad....
My mechanic sad the same thing after he checked with the reader and I bought a new one.
With the new Denso sensor it turned off for 15 minutes until the engine got hot after that appeared again.
He checked with the reader again and the error message was code 130 i think. Some low voltage kind of error, but the sensor is new and it can't be....
Please tell me what could be the problem?

 
Rep Power: 390

^the O2 sensors read voltage as a signal for the O2. If the sensor was spliced in with crappy connections or soldered, it could create low voltage. I would jack the car up and take a look- make sure they are OEM style, where they have pigtails off the sensor that go to a connector and go up towards your engine bay. Also make sure they are screwed in correctly. Simply turning the sensor 180 degrees in the pipe may fix your problem. Also pull your battery cable while your doing this so it resets the ECU. Then do a ECU reset once your done by having all electronics off, and turning the car on and letting it idle for 10 minutes, turn off engine completely, and then restart and drive. Everything should be fixed, if not, go to autozone and get that CEL checked.