Rep Power: 367

Hi,

I have an 02 coupe EX, using Eibach 0.75" (supposedly) drop springs, rear eibach sway at hard setting, KYB AGX shocks(2F/4R).
Since I destroyed the transmission/clutch/driveshafts for spinning the wheels too much at corners, I installed camber kits. (Skunk2 rear, eibach bolts front).
Previous "setting" were 0 F/-1.6R...
What would be a good alignmtent to start from? Currently running -1 front, 0.5 rears - waaay better than the almost terminal understeer from before at tight corners.
Hope to hear from you - especially Zzyzx and Robb!
PS: strut tower did increase the feel - it was not understeering more than before, but I could feel it better than before, so no changes to reactions, but better feed back, which is not bad at all. Times did not change too much.
Sandro

 
Rep Power: 229

If this is still your DD I would use a slight camber but prolly no more then -.5. Unless you live and drive on a lot of back roads, live in the country with lots of turns, you could prolly go with a -1 as well. You don't want to be changing tires every 6 months b/c you have bald spots, while the rest of the tire is brand new. What do you all have done suspension wise, and what tires you running on?

 
Rep Power: 367

Actually, my problem right now is the outside wearing out. Every autoX I go to with the Civic is a 1 to 2mm wear on th shoulders for a 6 run, 70 sec course...
Currently using Potenza RE760 (fabric reinforce in the sidewalls) and before them i had the RE01R's, with wire reinforce. same story, outside shoulder wear.
as stated before, the alignment before camber kit were 0 front, -1.6 rear, so understeered like a pig (not sure if pigs do understeer, but sounded like one - squeeee!).
before somebody asks, toe was 0 F/R.
most of mods are listed above, Eibach 0.75" drop, KYB AGX (2F/4R, being 4 hard), rear eibach at hard setup (maybe will go for progress fatter one, but first adjust cambers) and the camber kit (eibach bolts, Skunk@ UCA rear), Neuspeed front strut bar (will hold camber in check, hopefully).
Plan to keep rear at -0.5 and adjust fronts accordingly).
I had the eibach fronts, but took it back to stock / lowered struts to 1 (softest) to increase front tire contact time (more grip).
So, first one in order is to get the tire contact better.
i have another car, a miata which i use alternately with the civic, most is highway but corners with a good visibility and escape room are done somewhat "faster"... (only 2 corners that i can squeak the tire, though, with a good margin of safety, but it is in the way to work!

 
Rep Power: 380

-1.5 To -2 Deg on the nose, 1/32nd toe out.

-.5 deg camber on the rear, 1/32nd toe in (adjust as necessary for oversteer/understeer balance).


-.5 on the nose is not even maxing out the OEM camber range for this car.

 
Rep Power: 229

the reason I said such little camber is it's still his DD. when he gets to the track, his tires are gonna be horrible. u can always adjust at track too with a portable camber tester

 
Rep Power: 380

I've been running -2.5 deg camber on the nose of my car for 3 years now. Its not as big of a deal as you think.

Toe is the bigger issue, and so long as you keep it with in OEM spec you'll see no more then a nominal increase in tire wear.

 
Rep Power: 367

Yeah, that's what i thought.
The fronts does not provide much (if any), while the rears does increase the camber a lot for its stroke. (previous experinence with no camber kits...).
Though the alignement shop did do a good job on making the corners even, they gave me -0.5 front, -0.8 rears (just what i did not want, more understeer, but waaay better than before).
Since the front bolts does change the toe, i will need to be carefull.
Zzyzx, thanks for the numbers. That will help me on setting the suspension from now on when my official alignment guy come back - he is in vacation, i guess...).
Mrplow, thanks to you too, but since my rears were -1.6, I do know how the tires do wear if i am not careful with the tire rotation (not a compete newbie, just never used camber kits before (besides the miata, which does need a good alignment soon - still stock - was trying to learn the car before doing the alignment). Besides, i still get my 25 to 30 miles before the tires are gone (even that they are gone for the outside, not the inside wear!).

 
Rep Power: 229

Yeah see I focused more on the Daily Driver part but as long as you are still getting really good miles out of your tires thats the most important thing. I guess it has a lot to do with the fact that I have enough trouble keeping my tires for awhile with almost perfect alignments. Anyways good luck and glad someone could help you. Must people that post on here have no idea what headlight fluid is. LOL

 
Rep Power: 367

Drat! They could give me only -0.5 front and -0.8 rear - just what i did not want... (and that should not have been hard to get from the kits...).
Need to find a good shop...
Even so, light years difference. front holds way longer before starting squeaking, longer sweeps the rear almost starts to step out. Still fronts squeaks in tighter ones, but holds better its ground.
Now find a good shop and start screwing the corners (safely, I mean!).
When i find a good shop, that's -1 front and -0.5 rears! tires are finally "starting" to wear even. (shoulders are not wearing too fast)
thanks fellas!