Rep Power: 0

I opened the throttle plate and peered inside with a flash light. Not sure if this is normal, but there is oil residue inside the intake manifold. No puddles, but its like there is oil mist all over the walls.

I blew the timing belt last year and ever since I have had to add at least a quart of oil every 1000 miles (roughly, maybe a little more). Everytime I check the oil it's low). I don't notice it burning any. Before that happened, I could go 3000 miles and only be a half Qt low. My question, is it possible that oil may be leaking into the intake? I am not totally familiar with heads and how the manifolds mount to it. I just have a shaky car that is misfiring like crazy and it's getting worse by the week and need to solve this. (already got new plugs and checked fuel pressure)

Thanks for any input.

 
Rep Power: 218

If you blew a timing belt then you probably got bent valves or possible piston and ring damage...You got to remember that Honda's got zero clearance. Which means if you blow a belt, especially at high rpm's you will probably ram some valves into your piston head! It sucks, and is pretty costly to repair. If ya do it yourself its a bitch too and takes forever...But if ya look at the bright side it gives you a reason to install better performance pistons, or valve train kit.

 
Rep Power: 214

Some oil gets sucked up into the intake side of the motor through the positive crank vent system. The only time you would have to worry about this is if it was an excess amount (puddling) or if you are going to run nitrous. When N20 mixes with oil it becomes highly volital and explosive. I learned this the hard way spraying my GTi without a removed PCV or a catch can setup. As far as eliminating the source of the misfire... try to narrow down what kind it is. Lean/rich mis, density mis, electronic mis, mechanical mis.

 
Rep Power: 0

The misfires are most noticeable at low RPMs, (idle-1700). I am only getting codes that tell me which cylinder is misfiring, no o2 codes or anything. I got a timing light today and hooked it up. The lines on the crank are bouncing back and forth every so often. I can't read them to well as it was daylight. The Service Manual says to replace the ECM if the marks are off. I think my ECM is bad. Can someone tell me what I should be looking for on our cars when I use the light?

Thanks,
utah

 
Rep Power: 214

All the cars iv ever looked at with a light had adv/rtd marks plus one central with a stationary mark that lined up with the other markings. Misfire at low rpm, do you have access to a scanner? One thing it could be is a leaking injector causing it to mis at low rpms due to being overly rich, but stops at higher rpms because the extra fuel is needed anyway. Look on a scanner if u can at the P.I.DS and read your 02 to see if at idle its running rich and also check long term fuel trim n short term fuel trims. Before replacing the ECM id see which one its refering to specifically b/c some manuals refer to an ECM as just an electronic control mod as opposed to the PCM (powertrain control mod).

 
Rep Power: 0

I am not super familiar with the scanning. Is this different from a OBDII scanner? I have a OBDII scanner that I borrowed from my brother, but I don't recall it having tools to scan the Fuel Ratios and all that stuff. If this is the case, can Autozone do this type of scanning to?

The weird thing is that most the codes are cyl's 2 & 4. But I do get 1 & 3 as well, plus P0300 (random). It seems that the misfire "range" is getting bigger, (slowly getting more noticeable at higher RPMs).

 
Rep Power: 0

UPDATE:
Today I started the engine, when it's running I can remove either the coil or the injector connectors from cylinder #4 and it doesn't change the engine at all. If any of the others are removed the engine practically dies. So I removed the injectors, inspected them and they look fine. Poured some Seafoam in them and let them soak and then blew them out with air. I then reinstalled them switching #2 & 4. Started the engine and I can still disconnect the #4 injector wire while running and no affect on the engine. So my guess is that #4 injector is not getting power or the timing is way off on the spark for that cylinder. Any ideas?

Tried:
-New plugs
-Checked spark on #4 coil
-Fuel pressure test @ 45psi
-swapped/moved ign. coils around.
-moved injectors around

Thinking of trying:
-Compression test
-new ECM ($$$ don't want to buy this unless certain)
-testing voltage / continuity for #4 injector?

 
Rep Power: 0

FIXED:
Checked compression, found it was way low in #4. I just did a valve adjustment and found that the intake on #4 was way to tight so it wasn't closing off completely. Problem solved, now I am just doing the idle learn and should be good to go.