Rep Power: 238

Alright, I have gotten my turbo almost completely done and working and all crammed in there. Just a few tid-bits to button up and its done and off to the tuner. I'm using a used dezod kit, in good condition, but used none the less. The only real change that has been made to the over all kit is an ssqv instead of the tial bov.

1. The downpipe just barely touches the sub-frame on the lip right near the end. No matter how I adjust or wiggle things around its not changing. Is it going to be a problem? Should I grind down the downpipe and/or sub-frame a little for a little clearance? I'm kinda worried about the engine movement stressing welds, loosening bolts, and generally being a pita. I'm planning on a torque damper soon but still.

2. The oil drain line makes some really strange bends. Its not kinked or anything, but it gets almost level for a short length. It stays down hill the whole way, but its by no means ideal. Is it going to pose a problem? Anything I should watch out for, symptom wise, if it's not draining well enough?

3. Finally, I can't seem to find a basemap of any kind. I'm using the f/ic to tune it. I got it to idle fine with the larger injectors but beyond that I can't tune it myself. I just need something/anything to start from so the tuner doesnt have to start from scratch and I don't have to worry so much getting it there. I know dezod has a basemap for xfc posted, but I don't know enough about it to transfer it from xfc to f/ic. Any help with any sort of map or how to transform xfc to f/ic maps would be greatly appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 254

as for the downpipe. if the downpipe has a flexpipe on it i wouldnt worry about it... but i dont think the dezod downpipe has a flexpipe so it could end up getting pinched if your car is lowered and you hit something.. just to be safe i would grind down the subframe... dotn grind the downpipe because you might make a hole in it lol. pinched downpipes really hurt our cars, especially a turbo one.

for the oil drain. as long as the drain is a constant downhill it should be fine. i am pretty sure that the dezod oil feed line has a restrictor on it to reduce oil to the turbo [which is good] so a hole mess of oil wont be flying in the turbo. just imagine oil being dropped into the return line. as long as it makes it into the oil pan without any oil getting stuck or blocked its good.

dont know any basemaps on here for the FIC. i swear i thought fic had an autotune feature.

 
Rep Power: 237

I would take the down pipe to an exhaust shop... better than doing anything to the subframe...just my 2 cent

 
Rep Power: 262

Well I had the exact same problem with my downpipe, yes mine is a dezod kit.....it rubs the subframe like none other....do not put it like that...you will be so annoyed...I took mine off, cut a 1/4 inch cut in the back side from the subframe & welded the gap shut. It was just enough to get it back from subframe. I was told there is no fitment issue with the dezod downpipe My downpipe had problems brand new.

& I'm sure you figured out that 2nd 02 sensor bung on the downpipe doesn't have any room to mount a sensor.....plug it or weld it. dunno what they were thinking there?

You cannot clock the exhaust side of the turbine anymore so don't even try. I have taking my kit apart probably 5 times ti experiment....weld it!

Just tow you car to the tuner.....only way to go. Do not drive it whatsoever.

 
Rep Power: 238

Thanks a lot, I guess I'll cut that slice out of the sub-frame. It shouldn't be much, but seriously its just one more thing. Yeah I did figure out the sensor. The guy I bought the kit from had the higher one plugged for some reason. I just moved the plug. I'll see if my tuner can maybe get me a basemap. Its not very far, and I dont have to go over 30 the whole way there so I'm not too worried about driving. I'm positive I can baby it and stay way clear of any boost, and I do have a wideband. I just want to avoid having to pay for an hour of tuning for him to start from scratch, but oh well.

 
Rep Power: 424

its probably easier to smack a dent into the downpipe than to cut a hole out of the subframe and take a lot of strength out of it. If you're going to notch it, weld the hole shut. Otherwise, do something with the downpipe...
Always make the parts fit the car, making the car fit the parts never goes well.

 
Rep Power: 262

No! like boiler said.......don't make the parts fit the car!!!! You would so have to box up the subframe....I though about this idea as well but it is so close to that motormount......no way!! DO NOT CUT THE SUBFRAME!!! Would you cut a chuck outta your rib cage? Thats the cars rib cage!

I just did this like 2 weeks ago. I paid my welding 10 bucks to do it!!!!! It's not aluminuim so it's not spendy.....

If you think you can make it to the tuner go for it but I know I wouldn't.....go rent a dollie for 1 hr...get a buddy & a truck....ur set......Mine idled aswell when I got done....however it was not drivable....I wouldn't have dared go 15 mph, let alone 30....too many things could go wrong

 
Rep Power: 238

It was touching on that lip that goes all the way around that the exhaust bolts to. It was just barely touching at that. I just took the grinder to both of them. It clears now. There isn't a whole lot of room but it clears well enough for me, and doesn't look like its going to hit when the engine moves. There is no hole in the frame or the downpipe so I guess its mission accomplished. I may rent a dolly, thats a good plan. It will be at least Monday before I'll be done though. I finally get it all put together and start it up, then WTF oil is leaking. And its from a hole in the oil feed line...great

 
Rep Power: 254

hmm. oil feed stainless etc? how is it hooked to the block?

 
Rep Power: 238

yeah its a stainless line, its hooked into a t-fitting on the factory oil pressure sending unit. its leaking in the middle though. it has a hole in it. i found the leak, it just has a pin hole in the rubber liner and with how high the factory pressure is it leaks a nice steady dribble.

 
Rep Power: 312

Make sure you arent using the teflon lines when you replace it. The teflon lines will harden over time and are prone to breaking if you bend them at all once they set

 
Rep Power: 238

Alright its all installed running and mostly tuned...and man I love boost... but now I have new problems. I had it tuned on the dyno today and its running perfectly fine with the pedal on the floor. Problem comes in at partial throttle and before boost. Its really rough under low load and idle, AFRs are usually around 14 but its jumpy anywhere from 13-17. The fuel map should be idling fine, so I'm thinking its the ecu. Is this pretty typical or what? I dont have much experience with a turbo car so I'm a little clueless as to what's normal at this point. Should the afr's be pretty consistent and smooth, or is the nature of a piggy-back and the ecu trying to maintain stoich going to make it jump around? I also have a cel saying system too rich. Is that just due to it running rough/rich in vac or maybe a problem in the F/IC settings? So what might be the cause of some of this? Does it just need some more street tuning to iron this out and get it running more smoothly? Any insight is much appreciated.

 
Rep Power: 0

My AFRs jump all over the place at idle. What injectors are you running? Mine was good when I had the RSX-S injectors, but I soon as I stepped up to the 577cc SRT-4s, my idle got a little flaky. Piggyback just can't hang with the larger injectors and fights with the ECU pretty hard.

Partial throttle on a piggyback is ridiculously hard to tune especially since the D17 ECU works pretty damn hard to tune around a piggyback. The F/IC and the PCS aren't as bad as the Apexi units but they still have problems.

You shouldn't have a rough idle with a stock cam though, and your tuner should have been able to dial in the boost transition better than it sounds. I'd take it back and have him re-tune it.

Not sure on your CEL though. What are your AFRs in vac driving?

 
Rep Power: 262

I agree w/ clint.....I run the greddy emanage and my partial throttle acceleration is pretty much none existant....well it works sometimes....other times it's scary. I've tried & tried to iron it out but out ECU's are too smart. I frequently reset my ecu to clear short term & long term fuel tables for emanage control. kpro or bust man!

My afr's were pretty crazy too....bouncing between 13.8-15.7 at idle & while cruising.....I think that is just the ecu fighting the piggy back. My car did surge slightly at cold idle....but I think that was my headgasket

I still have a check engine light occasionally for baro sensor......due to injection correction factor on emanage. I use to get it more frequently but not as much anymore.

All these issues I had were on a blown headgasket w/ emanage....so I guess we'll see what happens when she goes back together this weekend.

 
Rep Power: 0

Oh, I was able to order the bearings from Belgium Avery, so I'm good to go now! /jack

 
Rep Power: 238

Thanks guys.. so the consesus seems to be that the ecu just doesn't like having air crammed down its throat. I'm using the stg 0 srt-4 injectors so that probably has a lot to do with it. The tuner told me to just drive it around for a week and see how it handles, keep an eye on the afr's and take it back in a week and he would iron out problems. I'm thinking the lower end just needs some work for driveability. As long as its something thats not too uncommon, I'm not worried. K-pro is definitely next on the list depending on how the clutch holds up. If it dies I kinda have to replace that first. Thanks again... good luck with those bearings foos.

 
Rep Power: 262

-haha....good job clint.....I guess that backorder was only in the us! Everyone must be rebuilding there turbo d17's!!

Back to topic.....I know srt injectors on my emanage idle like crap...but you have aem fic.....maybe same deal w/ idle?

 
Rep Power: 0

Wow, another thread jack, **** UK Honda. Wanted to charge me $38 a piece for the bearings. Get ****ing bent. I'll wait until they come back in stock in the states. That's assinine.

 
Rep Power: 262

omg!!!! HAHAH you can almost buy all those bearings from me for that much!!! wow!! I'm in the wrong country!