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I am posting this thread because I have a problem with my setup. I have a 01 civic vtec inca pearl. t3/t4, 38mm tial wastegate, custom manifold and many other custom things. I have a pressure switch with a jet injecting fuel to the intake manifold(just like an extra injector)(this is a temporary thing). We were tunnig the car today and we runned the car at 8psi, and other boost levels. I punched it a little bit and the car runs fine. But when I full throtle it, the car holds up like if there were something bad going on with the wastegate or something with the fuel . Everything in my setup is new. If somebody has have this problem or if somebody knows about this please help me. I am a new member but not new to this page. Thanks
Posting pics soon....

 
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your kind of vague in your fuel management description

 
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It is like injecting nitrous but without it, just fuel. It has a pressure switch, solenoid and lines. This is done almost by everyone that doesnt have a fuel management setup here in Puerto Rico. There are a lot of my friends that have this, and they dont have any problems(civics,nissans etc..). This boost is used like the nitrous only when need it . Vrommm

 
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why would you use the boost like a nitrous system? I really don't understand how that would work.

 
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You didn,t understand my point! I am sorry. The solenoid turns on in an specific psi were you need the fuel!! It can do this because you can regulate the pressure switch (it reads the air coming in to the intake manifold)

I know when it turns on because I have a led light(a little red light) in the gauge pod. It goes connected to the switch if I remember.

 
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You may have a faulty switch with a slight delay...really can't tell. Test out the switch and nozzle to make sure it's operating properly. Also, you have to understand that when you spray fuel directly into the manifold, rather than the ports where it was designed, it isn't going to atomize correctly, nor will it be used evenly across all four cylinders. Its a dangerous system and I wouldn't personally use it, at least any longer than I absolutely had to.

 
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does your map sensor see boost?

 
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The nozzle works fine, this is like I said a temporary thing. I am planning on getting injectors later. The system is used basically like using nitrous, a lot of people use nitrous in our cars. I am not saying that it is 100% safe.
I did buy a synapse missing link. But the problem, like I said, is when I give it full throtle (before the nozzle turning on in the psi that I have it in)

 
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are you running something like the tsi fuel injection unit?

 
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Sounds like a tuning issue. Could be some lean spots in the higher RPMS and/or some dentonation.

 
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It looks very similar to TSI injector box.

With specific psi, extra injectors start adding specific amout of fuel.
No boost - no extra fuel.

That is how TSI box operates.


---This one looks like tuning problem. Possibly manifild gets boost, but injectors are late with getting fuel in. Creating lean condition.
Or it could be Injectors cant keep up adding extra fuel at specific boost levels (e.g not big enough extra inlectors)

 
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I think to that possibly manifold gets boost, but injectors are late with getting fuel in. Creating lean condition. If so how can it be fixed?
But the thing is this , I shif to 2nd and like I said it runs good while in medium open throttle or so , if full throttle is given to the car then it starts to hold up. Maybe a better pump or what do you guys think? , because the nozzle turns on ok when in medium throttle ,so the fuel is getting there.

And also maybe I think that because the turbo spools really fast the injectors arent fast enough. The t3 side is 48. I will go to the shop tomorow to see if anything can be done. I will post results later. thanks

 
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Using one injector in the IM is not a good idea to use. There is no guarantee that each cylinder will be getting a sufficent amount of fuel. The reason that your car is hesitating is because it is starving for fuel at full throttle. A bigger fuel pump will not help because you can only pump so much fuel through those injectors. You can't just throw in bigger injectors, because then your car will run crappy because it will be too rich. The best thing to do is get some bigger injectors and some type of fuel management system. If you continue to run this setup, then run a lower psi.

 
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Hey guys, so I got to the shop and talked to the mechanic guy. There is nothing wrong with the fuel!!! He tells me that the missing link that I bought isnt working. The thing is that I bought a synapse missing link for our cars. What the hell? I thought. The map sensor must be reading boost! But the thing is that the check engine light doesnt come on.
He then calls a friend that has one of our car. He runs the same fuel setup that me and he is runnig fine. The guy tells us that the missing link didnt worked for him and he had to do a custom check valve or something like that. The thing is that it looks like sht in our cars because I had one similar before the missing link. My mechanic said to call him later so that I can bring the car in to see what he can do!! When custom turbo jobs are made we have to be patience. Im runnig out of mine. jeje
So, have anyone has have a problem like mine with the missing link?

 
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Missing link is so simple there is virtualy nothing cant be wrong with it.
Inside there is a little spring and operates the valve, se if it opens and closes. May be it got stuck or something. That is all missing link consists off.

May be your MAP sensor not wrking or malfunctioning?

 
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To hell with it, I will test the car, I read the instruction of the missing link and it said to unplug the positive battery terminal to erase codes. The map is working because the car would be holding up all the time. Again, does anyone has have similar problem? please help.

I will tell to look inside the link to the guys in the shop...

 
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Are there any CELs? If so what are they?

 
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Thats the thing, there arent any codes or any lights going on. I did disconected just in case.

If anyone is interested in viewing my setup go to the gallery and search in 2001 civics and write turbo pics. The car is inca gold.

 
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I've never seen "ramhorn" d17 manifold before, but today I see two.
Where these came from?

 
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Do you have a wideband O2 hooked up?

 
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Mine is custom made.

I have the original sensor in the custom downpipe if you mean that. And also I have a pyrometer(exhaust gas temperture) with the gauge and the boost gauge ,both autometer gauges.

 
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Judging by your answer to that question, you do not have a wideband O2. FYI-you might want to pick up one to help see what the AFRs REALLY are. That narrow band 0-1V OEM sensor does you and your turbo no good. (as useful as **** on a bull)

A wideband reads the AFR with a voltage span of 0-5V, which means it's like looking at your AFRs with a magnifying glass in comparison.

http://dezod.com/pd_aem_singlechannel_uego.cfm

That gauge used with your EGT gauge can tell quite a bit of info.

 
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Well I am not saying you are wrong, you are talking the right stuff. I do respect you because you have done many things for our cars and the dezod company is great in comparation with others that I have come across. As I have read for the past 2 years or something like that in this page you help people with problems
The thing is this the afr gauge that you are talking about is good but not completely precise. both things work great in conjunction but the egt gauge is more precise and if the gauge doesnt pass from 12 or 12 1/2 the engine is gonna be fine. Remember I am in a low budget and I dont have a emanage or anything like that. So street tunning is gonna be the way am going for now.

Another question. Like I said , I disconected the positive terminal, just in case. I was going on the way to work and I tested the car, this time the car jumped to 7 to 8 psi in no time with out problems. I had the solenoid turned off so it was for a couple of seconds. i am gonna turn on the pressure switch so that it turns on 3 or 4 psi. The car holded down in that moment but it was for the lack off fuel. May it be possible that a code or something was holding up my car before the restart of the ecu?

 
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Do not be confused, an EGT is not a substitute for a WB O2 gauge. They are to be used in conjunction. That gauge BTW is accurate to .1 AFR. It is dead on accurate.

With respect to budget, I understand. If your gonna street tune, how do you expect to have godo results without the right tools and knowledge? It's like you going in to fix a jet plane with a saw and hammer.

 
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You are right but, for tha kind of price I could find me a e manage or a vafc. For the moment I will run it in low boost. When I have the money I will run like 10 psi with all that stuff hehe . Thanks for the help!

 
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So I was testing my car today , I put the fuel system to turn on in 3 psi. Here is the description of the sound: The car when in full throttle starts holds up, The sound comes from the wastegate (like it were being drown in water) Like a crazy sound. What do you think it is? May it be the map sensor?