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Hey guys, i got a weird problem with my exhaust manifold. The tech told me that one of the holes that the screw holding the turbo and downpipe on the maifold is stripped and thats why, the pressure causes all the other bolts on the manifold to go loose and therefore making lots of noise and no boost. Does anyone know what to do about this? I have the sf manifold. Is it possible to put locking nuts on the top of the bolts, will it even work? I'm completely out of ideas for this one. I would just get rid of the thing and get dezod's manifold, but the only problem is its externally wastegated. and thought I might as well save the money and wait to buy that Kick *** kit he has put together when my engine build is completly. anyways, can anyone suggest what to do about the manifold? is it possible to get the threads fixed or anything like that?

thanks

 
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Choice is yours if you want to buy the whole kit or just the mani, but do not be discouraged by it being externally gated. We make block off plates to be used for those that need a quality manifold and still being internally gated.

plate: http://dezod.com/pd_dezod_motorsports_38mm_block.cfm
mani: http://dezod.com/pd_dezod_motorsports_d17_stainless.cfm

 
Rep Power: 280

Before you rush to buy new parts, try using nut+bolt at the point where you have stripped threads.
You can also try using smaller bolt with nut, e.g. M6 insted of M8.

 
Rep Power: 331

make sure you use lock washers. that solved many problems for me.

 
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thanks for all the inputs guys

 
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I'm trying to figure this out.... one of the flange bolts is stripped (between the turbo and manifold)?
If its stripped, you should be able to use a nut and bolt, and a lock washer or 2 to just hold it all together. Piece of cake fix, no need for a new manifold to fix that. If you want to get a little crazier... pull the manifold off, have the hole welded shut, then re-drill and tap it. I wouldn't bother with that though, a bolt and nut would work equally well.

 
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I just would like to know if you sucessfully stoped the "leak" with new bolts?

Or did you buy new parts?

 
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will let you guys know what happens, i really like the nut and bolt idea, but if someone could explain it a little it would be helpful. Are you guys suggesting that i place a nut on the underside of the bolt, and then slide the nut to lock the bolt in place, or get new bolts, slightly longer and place a locking nut from the top side of the manifold? i should probably replace all the bolts anyways right?

 
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Ye that is wierd. Boilermaker is right should be an easy fix. should be able to retap the manifold

 
Rep Power: 313

pics would probably help illustrate what everyone is talking about evol.

 
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Ok, the threads are stripped out, so either:
1. Quick fix is to stick a 7mm bolt through the 8mm hole, get a bolt longer than the length of both flanges put together push the bolt through both flanges when assembled, nut on the back side and use a lock washer
2. Remove the manifold, drill the hole to 8mm, use an 8mm bolt and nut combination
3. Remove manifold, weld hole shut, redrill and tap.
4. Helicoil it
5. drill it for a 10mm bolt and tap it (you'll prolly also have to drill the turbine housing hole.

Without looking at the SF mani, 1 and 2 only work if you have access to the back side of the flange. If its a blind hole (like the HKS mani) then you'll have to choose one of options 3-5.

 
Rep Power: 280

This one is a nobrainer,
This is what I'd of done.

 
Rep Power: 279

just get a reverse tapper take out the stripped bolt and put another one in/retap it...