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I currently have a 4 channel amp hooked up and working. I bought a JBL 2 channel amp. The power wire is going through a distirbution block so thati s not a problem, 2 power wires are coming out of thge DB to each of the amps.

1. The JBL amp does not turn on. The remote wire nor the ground are connected. Do these need to be connected to get power to the amp?

2. The remote wire has been properly connected ot the HU and to the 4 channel amp. My question is, can I remove the remote wire from the 4 channel terminal and split it by adding two wires... one to each amp? Would I need a another DB block for this or can I just use electrical tape to secure the "Y" connection?

Thanks

 
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i belive u can just split that remote wire into 2 and your goin to need to ground both of those amps.

 
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I can use any type of wire for the gorund and remote, right, nothing speciific?

 
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Uh. Check out getting like some 4 gauge ground wire. That'll be your best bet. As far as remote wire goes. Get something smaller gauge. Check out your local car audio shop.

 
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i have two amps also. what i did was where i connected the remote wire behind the deck i took two 14 gauge wires and used a connecter and twisted them together. then just ran them on the same side and one to each amp. for the power i have waht you did was with a dist block but for ground i read that when you use a dist block with grounds it may cause clipping so i have sepereated grounds for each amp. its pretty simple if you understand what to do

 
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you dont need to run 2 seperate remote wires from the headunit to the trunk, just run 1 wire, then connect that wire in your first amp with another piece of wire to go to the other amp. 2 amps is ok to power with the remote wire, but i wouldn't add too many amps to it, if you want to install more later on, i'd use a relay.

 
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You can use any wire for a remote wire and split it to run more than one amp. As far as ground wire goes. Use a wire that is at least the same size as the power wire, if not bigger.

 
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Dude, you are scaring me. Step away from the car and get some help.

Seriously, I don't want you paying more to repair your car than you would have to just get it installed.

 
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any wire,I personally use a 18 guage.any brand wire will do

 
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I do have to agree. Please be very careful with all that you are doing. The last thing that you need is damage to your car, or to yourself. I would honestly concider having it professionally installed or at least by someone that has done this before.

However from where you are at it's not too too difficult if you do want to attempt this yourself.

Here's a small write up. It should be pretty useful in setting everything up. Audio guru's please add in anything if I left it out.

1st as with all electronics on your car, make sure that you have disconnected your power terminal from the battery before continuing.

If you already have a remote line running to one of the amps you are already in the clear. You can go to wal-mart and buy a remote line which I think is like an 18 gauge wire usually a bright blue. This may help you out to prevent any confusion later on, but any 16-18 gauge wire should do fine.

From here you are going to bridge the remote lines so that you have two lines going into one amp. One is going to be from the HU and the other is going to be the patch line that is connecting to your secondary amp. Make sure that you are properly connecting those two lines.

For your ground I would use between a 4 and an 8 gauge wire. Not too sure about what the wattage is on your amp but you should pretty much be good with a 4 gauge for any application.

Make sure that you have an O-ring terminal crimped on the end of the ground and depending on the type of connection on the amp, a terminal that will fit and maintain a good hold.

Now I'm assuming that you are mounting this in your trunk, if you are then there are several great grounding spots, but one of the easiest to access is right behind your seats. fold down the rears and you will see about 4 or 5 bolts. Un-screw one of the bolts, sand down the area to remove any paint and you can see bare metal. Attach the O-ring to the bolt and screw it back it. If you do not find any bolts you can use a self tapping sheet metal screw. You can just screw it into place as is or use a thin drill bit to start a pilot hole.

Now make sure that all your fuses are in check and carefully go back and re-connect your positive terminal on the battery.

There ya go. That is pretty much it. As I said please be careful, although it is only a 12 volt battery it can still deliver one hell of a shock if you are not careful.

 
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If you really want to be safe, run the remote wire from the front to back and then use a relay to split the wire. This way if you ever want to run another remote to anything you can just hook it up to relay.

 
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you don't have to add a relay because the power comes directly from your headunit when you power it on so that acts simular to a relay.

 
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You are thinking or something else. I am talking about using relay as a safety device. You can't run lot of remote out of one that comes from the front. If you are using it for more then two device, then relay is needed.

 
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You are thinking or something else. I am talking about using relay as a safety device. You can't run lot of remote out of one that comes from the front. If you are using it for more then two device, then relay is needed.
I think different from lot of people. I do my stuff right at first, so dont have to go back and replace everytime i make changes.. IF you are only going to use remote wire to turn only two device on then, forget relay. More then two use it.

 
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i agree, and if you use a relay, you will need to run a constant wire to the back too.

 
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i didnt real all the responses because im a lazy sob. but you can just link off your remote wire to as many amps u want. so it'll be linking from one to another.

as for size, doesnt really matter as long its wire. i think most amp kits come with 20awg...correct me if im wrong. not like current is constantly going through the remote wire...its just a signal.

 
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ABSOLUTELY WRONG! You disconnect your negative cable wire!

 
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VERY VERY VERY WRONG.

 
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For all intensive purposes it doesn't really matter which terminal you disconnect. The whole idea is to cancel out the circuit and by removing either terminal you are doing just that. If you have a problem with another electrical device inside your house, you don't have the option of just pulling the ground, you pull the whole plug. Same difference.

 
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ummm not really man. from a safety perspective its ALWAYS better to disconnect the negative ternminal first to avoid short circuiting. Ever heard of power bars with Surge protection? Same concept. Why do you think fuses are attached to power wires and not ground wires?


I concur, thats how I did mine. Always better to do things right the first time and not half *** it, its better in the end and costs you less $$$ in the long run.