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ok, first I'd like to start off by saying ... I think there is something wrong with the dynojet that I went to. One of my friend's dyno'ed his k20a3 at the same shop with aem cai, greddy evo2, hondata intake mani gasket and got a best of 126 whp

Ok, well onto mine.

Currently, the only mods I have are 17x7.5" SSR Competition rims, Nextgear intake mani gasket, ep3 AEM V2 intake. I got about 4 pulls in and got a best of 170.39 whp, 118.08 wtq. Temperature was 88 degrees F, Humidity 16%, SAE 1.00 (whatever that means) ... dyno run was a 4th gear pull. The lowest was 163 whp.

We then bolted up the Injen CAI from an rsx type S and after 4-5 pulls, I got a best of 178.43 whp, 123.66 wtq. The numbers never dipped below 170 whp. THIS PROVES THAT HEAT SOAK IS REAL to all you people that believe that SRI's are better than CAI's for HP. For that run, it was 93 degrees F, humidity 13%, SAE: 1.01. 4th gear pull again.

The dyno runs were done with the hood open and 2 large fans simulating driving conditions.

Another note ... today, I checked my spark plugs and realized that they were loose ... almost finger tight. I'm wondering if that also has anything to do with the dyno numbers reading low

UPDATe ON POST #112

 
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aaaaaaaaannnnnnnddddddddd I'm retarded and just realized that you have a k20a.... sorry LOL. SAE 1.00 is the correction factor for the dyno.

:edited:

 
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Interesting #'s. you made that much with a CAI

 
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ya its hot outside. why dyno at that kind of temp? wait til its 50-60F at least so its realistic. And it sounds like the dyno is broken anyway. Oh and I don't really have heat problems with my sri unless its 90F+ and then there's nothing you can do. Still performs well anyway. My header has good insulation/coating. SRI is better for torque, not hp.

 
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Why do you think it is broken?

 
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dezod: those numbers are very low.

gear: I figured why not ... 90 degree heat isn't gonna lower it that much though... right?

 
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What did you expect? Realisitically?

 
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from a 220 stock crank hp motor, I don't expect to lose 55 whp. (220 - 170 whp, 5whp for intake = 55 whp loss). That is definitely not right.

I expected 185 whp

the average bone stock k20a2 motors puts out 165 whp. The average bone stock k20a3 motor puts out 135 whp ... my friend should NOT be pulling 126 whp with aem cai, img and greddy evo2 exhaust.

 
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Possibly their RPM signal on this motor is giving a bad reading. Remember, WHP is dreived from WTQ & RPM.

HP = (t*n)/5252

Where T = Torque (lbft)
N = Speed (rpm)

HP is really almost imaginery.

'HP sells cars, TQ wins races'

Try another dyno on a less hot day too. Heat can have quite a bit to do with it. The fuel doesn't atomize well.

What if you re-dyno somewhere else and the figures right?

Edit: Some mods do make you lose power on some motors. I has been proven, time and time again.

 
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drivetrain loss does seem high.... and also, isnt it 220PS and I think that would come out to about 216BHP? As I calculate w/ your #'s, seems just over 20% loss... and thats a bit high.

 
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No lie, I was just thinking the same thing. Rep for you.




GET OUT OF MY HEAD!!!

 
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dezod: if I re-dyno and my figures remain the same, then that is acceptable. But my friend's dyno still doesn't make any sense. It was on the same dyno, different day.

220 PS, yes. However, all of the honda motors are actually rated in PS. The RSX is rated at 160 PS, etc ... www.honda.co.jp

on that same note, it doesn't make sense to calculate the base RSX's PS/HP correctly and severely over rate the type r.

135whp /157 BHP = 14%
165whp /216 BHP = 23%

I can post links to dynos of bone stock K20a3, K20a2 and K20a motors .. all on dyno jets... obviously all on different dynos, different days, different temps, yet still pretty consistant.

165 (granted 5 whp for intake) is still very, very low.

 
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Some other variables not taken into account on your end:

Octane
EMS/Tune
Altitude

 
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Octane: nearly 50/50 mix of 100 and 91 octane (with 91, K20a motors knock... a lot)
Tune: stock dc5-r ecu
Altitude: not sure about that one. The beach is about 7 miles away from that shop ... I'm guessing pretty close to sea level, considered there are very little inclines while going to the beach.

 
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You dyno'd on that much of a mix octane?

I would assume you do not run this mix regularly. Why run it on the dyno? That's in essence attempting to slightly increase your dyno figures. You should dyno on 93 or whatever you drive on regularly.



13 gals 93 + 1 gal 112 = 14 gallon tank of 94.4 octane.

2 gallons of 112 in with a 1/3 tank of 93 octane in a 1.8T Golf on the dyno. Here are back to back runs before/after the 112 was added. NO tuning adjustments were made whatsoever. Boost was the same.

 
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yes ... from what I've read, 100 octane and 91 octane mix pretty easily ... from the (sort of local) 76 station

 
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To each his own then.

 
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i think that dyno sucks... go to another shop, you shouldn't dyno that low, even stock

 
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is your motor stock? I didn't think it would knock with 91 octane...

 
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yeah, it's stock motor ...

wantaturbo (aka civictype-s) put a k20a into his friend's rsx and was running 91 octane ... he hooked up his kpro to it and it was registering over 100 knocks/min (something ridiculous like that)

 
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Don't worry dude my car dynoed 160whp 160torque and its turbo with a bunch of mods. I was thinking 185 or more but then again it was 104 on my dyno day. With my cam and all my other stuff i am hoping 200whp will let you guys know in 2 weeks. But the horsepower didn't matter because when i floored it it was fast

 
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hmm... pondering..

but in the end its not bad for stock

 
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hmm... is there any way you could have reset the ecu and cruised around with the race fuel mix before the runs... just so the car would get used to the fuel mixture and adapt better to conditions.... but i figure that driving around would heat up the motor even more and you would pull lower numbers...

 
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I've reset the ecu many times ... but that is besides the point ... I've been using 50/50 since day one.

50/50 is not going to affect the dyno .. if anything, it's going to give me more power

 
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That's what I said.

 
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for some reason, I never even saw this post ... maybe because you edited it after I saw it but yeah, I run that mix to avoid knocking

I'm guessing the blue line is the higher octane run?

 
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Correct.

 
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I remember reading somewhere that they have higher octane gas ready available in japan and other places overseas, and this causes problems with cars/motors that are imported into the U.S. I would have gone k20a2 with some cams, and just bought a lsd, but to each his own.
^Also, you gotta warm the car up or you will not get full power, so driving it around wouldnt matter would it? When the engines cool it is still geting hot air.

 
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Hey its not easy getting high octane rated gas out here in cali. Though if you go to the lakes where people take there see-doo's and jet ski's I here you can get 93 and above. But it cost a lot more.

What kind of clutch are you using?

 
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have you tried to play with the intake a little.. cause heres what happen to mines

i was using a brand new aem si cold air intake at the time

took off the filter and gained 4hp
took off the cai piping and ran direct TB open and gained another 2hp but lost torque
put on a 3in cai piping with no filter and gained another 3hp and torque went back up..

of course i am still restrictive cause i am still using a smaller TB than i am supposed to be using