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hey guys, new here. i just bought an 02 civic lx with a turbo specialties t 25 extreme on it. while driving it i noticed that in higher rpms the engine will cut out like no gas is getting to it. When shifting in a calm fashion however, everything is fine. I then stopped the car and unplugged the connector ( the thing with like 12 different wires going into it) so that the turbo would not be operative. However, the problem is still there! any suggestions?

thanks!
jason

 
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how much boost are you running ???

Sounds like you are running to rich.

 
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the thing is computer remote controlled, and thats what i need to figure out. i dont know how to adust it.

 
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Try using the search function at the top of the page.

I'll leave this open for now......

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=207055

http://www.turbodiscounters.com/html/fuel.aspx#

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=218852

 
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just so you know, the turbo itself will always operate. It is not computer controlled.

So if you unplug anything, it will most likely result in damage to your engine.

 
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i was wondering, I know turbos can only boost as low as the spring in the wastegate will allow. My question is do internally wastegated turbos usually allow for less boost than externally wastegated or vice versa or about the same?

Man you should not have started unpluggin things nor have bought an aftermarket turboed car, with out some experiance, or atleast some research. You could really f#ck your sh#t up.
Go to your local dyno tuner asap, and talk with him/her for awhile, and get it tuned.

 
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is your check engine light on? ... does it blink when you're wot in high rpms?

if so, you may be misfiring... that's what happened to me

 
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no. the difference between an internal and external wastegate is its location and the way it operates.

you can buy lower psi springs for the external wastegates. But most internal wastegates are set at abou 4 psi. Why the hell would you buy a turbo kit, then run less than 4 psi?

 
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LMFAO please...

 
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the guy i bought it from said he ran with the brain unplugged for normal everyday driving. is there someplace i can go to view suggested setups for the turbo specialties remote?

 
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From looking at all of your threads about your tubo, blown shocks and stereo not workin.....i say that bought the car from the wrong person.

 
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To drive to get it tuned the first time, maybe turn it down in a summer heat wave, and i was just curious about external vs internal.

 
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you definately bought from the wrong person. Dont ever drive anywhere with the unit unplugged. It should still have the settings saved, so plug that back in. And bring it to the tuners. Dyno wideband tuning is what you DEFINATELY need. You should sell the car as quick as possible, or put a new motor in there. That thing has run lean for a long time, and I dont know how its still running.

I have the same kit, use the damns ettings. There are links on this site for how to control it.

Make sure you at least unplug a pipe (not the one on the throttle body though, one elsewhere (not near the ground though). And hopefully filter it somehow. You dont want that hooked up. Thats the only way to not see boost, or open the wg?? or take the actualy turbo manifold off, but thats too damn loud/illegal.

 
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it runs fine, just at higher rpms it cuts out. i dont want to sell it, it runs fine 90 percent of the time, and if i had to guess i would think it would just be plugs or something. how much does it usually cost to have it dyno tuned?

 
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between 150 and 80bucks a half hour. I pay 80 a half hour, takes an hour and a half give or take. so I pay about 260-300. They do an awesome job, but there is another place thats alright. They charge 150 to do a complete tune.

just shop around. Can you drive it hard, or does it just shut off? You want that unit hooked up, otherwise there is no added fuel to your engine. That will cause it to be lean, and blow your motor. if the unit isnt hokoed up, there is no power, and no info being sent to the injectors, causing no fuel. Unhook a pipe or something.... than get tuned and put the pipe back before the tune.

 
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click the links, the turbo discounters explains the fuel setup (the controller you unplugged). It tells you how to use it, and what all the functions are.

I hope this helps, and I wouldnt change the settings for the psi, or rpm. That is as long as there is something entered into the psi settings. at least to 7 or 10psi (incase of spikes)

 
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i can drive it fairly hard once its warmed up, but i am definetly planning on getting it tuned asap. can you clarify what you mean by unhooking a pipe? do you mean draining the fuel out of it? what exactly would you do to fix it? thanks bro!

 
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are you sure it's not the rev limiter

 
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so what fuel/air ratio do you run? and how long do you leave your injectors open?