Anyone with Stage 1 cam?
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,560
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Rep Power: 0 
Anyone with Stage 1 cam?
Anyone here installed the stage1 N/A cam yet? im curiouse on how much power gains it will give you. some people here say it wont give you much but i think thats bull ****. im sure it will give you a noticeable gain. can anyone here tell me how it is?
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 
I'm not about to spend $1k installed just to get another 5whp. I would not expect more than that, well maybe as much as 10whp if you have other engine mods.
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,560
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Rep Power: 0 5whp....see i think thats the biggest bull shiet. cam should give you more then 5 whp. i need someone who has a stage1 cam to tell me how it is. not those who assume it wont give you that much power.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 you're forgetting required retainer kit and install time. not to mention a cam gear to actually tune it with, and a vafc to tune the a/f. otherwise 5whp is all you get.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 maybe 10whp? you have to remember that its still just a sohc. You can retard cam timing and add fuel (maybe? car is already rich stock) to make the cam work better at higher rpm, but your idle is gonna suffer. now dohc is a whole different story. And as a general rule, a performance tuned cam is sacrificing low end for hi end.
d17s are econo-engines to the max. its not a bad thing to get 40mpg. really if your looking to spend 1k on this car buy Tein Type Flex Coilovers. otherwise your gonna just have a built up car that everytime you race you need to say "its really a drivers race" so dont waste the money just get a k20
K20A - EURO spec
• 147 kW (200 hp) @7400 rpm
• Torque 196 Nm @5900 rpm
K20A – Japan Spec
• HP 220 @ 8000 rpm
• Torque 152 lb/ft @ 7000 rpm
K20A2 – US spec RSX type S motor
• 200 HP@7400 rpm
• Torque 142 lb/ft @ 6000 rpm
K20A3 – US spec Ep3 / RSX motor
• 160 HP@6500 rpm
• Torque 132 lb/ft @ 5000 rpm
K24A2 – US spec TSX motor
• 200 HP@6800 rpm
• Torque 166 lb/ft @ 4500 rpm
K24A – US spec CRV motor
• 160 HP@6000 rpm
• Torque 162 lb/ft @ 3600 rpm
• 147 kW (200 hp) @7400 rpm
• Torque 196 Nm @5900 rpm
K20A – Japan Spec
• HP 220 @ 8000 rpm
• Torque 152 lb/ft @ 7000 rpm
K20A2 – US spec RSX type S motor
• 200 HP@7400 rpm
• Torque 142 lb/ft @ 6000 rpm
K20A3 – US spec Ep3 / RSX motor
• 160 HP@6500 rpm
• Torque 132 lb/ft @ 5000 rpm
K24A2 – US spec TSX motor
• 200 HP@6800 rpm
• Torque 166 lb/ft @ 4500 rpm
K24A – US spec CRV motor
• 160 HP@6000 rpm
• Torque 162 lb/ft @ 3600 rpm
Last edited by nick95673; Oct 23, 2005 at 08:21 PM.
gearbox, the stage 1 does not require the valvetrain upgrade.
so for 300 dollars 5-7 instant whp is good, you figure with an adjustable came gear picked up for 100 used on 7thgen you can tune and pick a lil more power then maybe get intake 50 bucks off ebay cus who cares, and header with full exhaust 650. so youve got 1100 spent and id estimate a 12-14 whp gain. theres alot of other things to spend 1100 on that will give you driveability issues and same hp gains. 100 bucks for a horsepower actually isnt that bad when you consider some of the crazy **** out there.
so for 300 dollars 5-7 instant whp is good, you figure with an adjustable came gear picked up for 100 used on 7thgen you can tune and pick a lil more power then maybe get intake 50 bucks off ebay cus who cares, and header with full exhaust 650. so youve got 1100 spent and id estimate a 12-14 whp gain. theres alot of other things to spend 1100 on that will give you driveability issues and same hp gains. 100 bucks for a horsepower actually isnt that bad when you consider some of the crazy **** out there.
and if you have an 01 civic you can take an engine out of an 01 integra RS, LS, SE, GS: 1.8L DOHC b18b1 producing 142hp and 128 lb ft of torque. GS-R: 1.8L DOHC VTEC b18c1 producing 170hp and 124 lb ft of torque, and the **Type-R equiped with a DOHC VTEC b18c5 producing 195hp and 130 lb ft of torque
Originally Posted by gearbox
are you sure about just needing the cam and no kit? and i wonder how bad the idle will be w/stage1
i wonder about the idle too, i mean they said stage 2 would idle okay and that was obviously bs so im interested to see how a stage 1 would turn out. especially since i was thinking about getting a stage 1 (to avoid needing new valvetrain but most importantely to avoid driveability problems other people had with stage 2 and 3)
Registered!!
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Southern CAlifornia
Rep Power: 0 
ok i know d17 engines are all fuel economy and crap but how much more power can you add to the engine with a full mod?...like let's say exhaust, intake, headers, ecu, cam, and any other engine mod...how much would it be in total?...let's leave out adding a turbo..so basically everything but a turbo..and then if we do get a turbo how much do you all think it would be total?...i know it's dumb to do a full mod on a d17 engine like that but just curious
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 51,241
Likes: 20
From: NV
Rep Power: 812 stock cam but the pnp head doesn't flow air fast enough so the idle shakes the car. It doesn't do it unless the rpm is at 650. about 100 higher and it stops.
Registered!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 gearbox, how can we talk to a person that has a EX head in his hands?
I do race engine heads for motorcycles and if someone tells me some measurements I know what can be done to put the head Hi-vel porting.
1- Size of the intake valve
2- Choke point of the intake port, that is the point just before the valves, hard to explain but I can get a detailed pic to that persona.
In motorcycle heads, since we run in the low revinng eng, like mine 11600rpm so the duration of the cam makes that the intake vel, of the charge has to be great so we can force the induction with the help pf the ram air.
that is wy a 1000cc can have 157 RW hp stock
my 1200cc has 175 rw hp.
I do race engine heads for motorcycles and if someone tells me some measurements I know what can be done to put the head Hi-vel porting.
1- Size of the intake valve
2- Choke point of the intake port, that is the point just before the valves, hard to explain but I can get a detailed pic to that persona.
In motorcycle heads, since we run in the low revinng eng, like mine 11600rpm so the duration of the cam makes that the intake vel, of the charge has to be great so we can force the induction with the help pf the ram air.
that is wy a 1000cc can have 157 RW hp stock
my 1200cc has 175 rw hp.
Registered!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 in some cases 99% the intake ports have to be put smaller, yes smaller so mid range and top end power comes alive.
in cars I dont know but I have heard some people are doing it, transfering tech from bikes to cars.
Turbo are another story since you force the charge.
in cars I dont know but I have heard some people are doing it, transfering tech from bikes to cars.
Turbo are another story since you force the charge.
ok lemme put this ou for you guys, i have an 01 EX 2dr. I had stage 1 crowers NO VALVE TRAIN you dont need it if your revving to 7000 the motors built for that. stage 2 or higher yeah a must. I had stage 1 cam, aem 3 bolt cam gear, and a ported and polished head i had it tuned by THE HOOKUPS in cali. Put down a solid 18.5 hp gain at the wheel, these engines can make power they just need work like all motors. I have since built the motor and gone with stage 2's full motor upgrades and im closing the 180hp mark NA no nothing to help no nitrous or anything. I remember with the stage 1's tho it was fine, it drove like normal, just had a little more whoopy in the pedel.
have fun
have fun
the head was taken down quite a bit, it looks really nice the intake runners were knife edged and the whole thing was polished it was silky smooth when done. It dosent flow too horrible with the round runners and stuff but if you do just some basic port work you can get the most out of it.
