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Well in the motorcycle world polish is a thing of the past (of couse Im talking not the average street, dirty hands) the polish makes a layer efect that DOES NOT help fuel atomization. So polish is a BAD thing acordding to my book, to have the right size intake port is 100% way better.

We like it rought......


go here.

www.mototuneusa.com
this man talked **** several years ago that manufacturers are using today....

warning if you have a light EGO, DO NOT GO, I repeat DO NOT GO....

 
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bump for a dyno chart. also what are you using for fuel management?

 
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Ill post up that dyno chart for the stage 1's OH i did fail to mention that at the time of that dyno i had the full magnaflow exhaust, header, aem v2 and a exedy flywheel. I was pleased with how much i spent to acompliish that power gain. Im out tosea at the moment, but when we pull in next month ill go scan those dyno sheets and put them up for yall. Youd be amazed at what you can do with a d17, you just have to coax it a bit more.

 
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how was the idle with the stage one cam.

how much did you spend with the pnp,cam,cam gear,and tuning and what did you use to tune it

 
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But how much can we expect for gains with the cam only, no PnP work or anything like that?

 
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I say bore it out and get some flat head pistons.

Oh. Wait.

 
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... It's peanut butter jelly time, peanut butter jelly, peanut butter jelly....






Sorry... It was synod's avatar's fault...

 
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the stage 1 didint net anything too great by itself. A couple ponies about 5-10 i think after tuning. The stage 2 is the way to go. It has a good idle, and is very street civilized DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THE STAGE 1'S IT WAS WASTE OF DOUGH. They are nice cams but the stage 2 are a much better gain and more solid all around

 
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but if your dead set on stage 1's then go for it, they do gain SOME power, but its not going to be like you just bolted a turbo on or nothing. Remember that in the all motor world, nothing comes easy, you gotta finess the engines and make them do what you want them to.

 
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5-10 hp gain is impressive for me. most bolt ons only give out like what...2 or 3? maybe 4?

 
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well most of that gain posted came from the pnp. I felt a big difference (10whp) to be exact. I can't imagine a cam giving more than 5whp. the other i/h/e boltons maybe another 5whp. Just whatever you do make sure the head doesn't get milled past spec or you're gonna be like me.

 
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yeah i am thinking about getting stage 2 na cams for me how much in total would it cost to do that. i know i need the ecu, cam gears, springs and retainers, is there anything else i need. i am not looking to make my civic fast just looking to get some more power outta it and i will be happy.

 
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well camshaft and springs and retainers is gonna cost you close to 700 bucks right there. cam gears is another hundred and something bucks...ECU i dont know...tuning your **** is like another hundred.

 
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well for cam and retainer set with install, prolly looking around $1k. figure another $500 for ecu and cam gear plus dyno time and you're set.

 
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Why must you need an ecu? ...dont understand!!! sorry kinda new at this

 
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well you need an ecu or some kind of piggyback to tune the engine on a dyno. more accurately, the air/fuel ratio by adding/subtracting fuel so it doesn't run too rich or lean. By adding a different cam you change the ratio. A cam gear may be needed to advance or retard the timing, again only on the dyno so you can see what helps hp.

 
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cams, i paid about 360 from crower
springs and retainers i get on ebay for 270.
I installed it all myself. THat install is easy, sorry no diy. just get a helms manual and do it yourself.

I never ran any type of ecu, i had a afc from apex and that was it. I tuned it myself by guessing around and i got it pretty dead on in less than a few hours of tuning. Dont blow a ton of cash on an emanage or something that you dont need. If your not a hardcore tuner you dont need that ****.
buy a vafc or something for 260 or so and use that. You can tune the engine without having to call dell for freakin tech support.
go with the stage 2's youll be happy

OH and yeah dont Bust a GEARBOX and let some jackass do your head, i still cant beleive that **** but thems the breaks in the car game.

im happy to answer any other questions using facts instead of speculation

good luck i hope this helps a bit

 
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sweet deal yeah i figured a afc would do the job. itll be a few months till i can save all the money up so future project.

 
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where do you redline at now? and hows your idle?

 
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ya if you want good pnp, goto exospeed. the vafc is all the ecu you would need for na. cam install is easy, but how did you do the springs (where did you get the compression tool and stuff). i would tune everything on the dyno for the most gain.

 
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sounds like its pretty easy installing the camshaft itself. a lot people say dont install by yourself unless you are good at working with cars....

 
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i figured u'd need a vafc II or something but all i saw was ECU and got kinda like HUH?!?!? but thanks guys it's prob my next install i work at Honda dealership so i'll get my tech to install then i'll have to go to Ride Revolution and get it tuned. wish i could find a pNp head for sale....

 
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diy camshaft install:
remove valve cover
remove front driver tire and plastic cover
rotate crank pulley to tdc
loosen tensioner and slide timing belt off cam gear
remove cam gear
loosen valve adjusting screws
loosen but do not remove rocker assembly bolts
lift out rocker assembly with bolts inside
push cam to the left and lift out
put new cam in such that keyway is facing up
reinstall rocker assembly
adjust valve screws
reinstall cam gear with keyway matching camshaft
replace timing belt and tighten
make sure engine timing is accurate by
turning crank 2 turns counterclockwise
put back valve cover, wheel and cover
reset ecu
start the car and do idle learn
go for a drive

 
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meow dyno, meow...

 
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nice write up dude.

 
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i could go into more detail, but thats the basic idea. if you can use simple tools and have jackstand/jack and some breaker bar/pipe with socket wrench kit, you should be fine. The shortcut way is to make a mark on the cam gear and belt and then pry off the belt while its tight. Then when you're done put the belt back and match up the marks. then timing isn't an issue. Just be careful. Honda dealer did this when swapping the head and now my aem gear is useless cause there are 10+ screwdriver scrapes on the gear surface.

 
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i meant stage 2 but good write-up... same concept... should have parts by jan. 1st but still wishin for a PnP head i really really really want one if ANYONE knows where i can get one... i just want to do this once... so do it all at the same time...

 
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www.exospeed.com seriously give them a call...

 
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I would go stage 2 I just finished my head swap and cam install last thursday. I have the stage 2 turbo cam and love it. The idle isnt too bad my idle at cold is around 900-950 rpm. and at warm up its in the 700s. It has a noticable lope but it doesnt shut off and my start up isnt changed.

Oh not to hijack just wondering if anyone has any tips on the setting for the v-afc with the stage 2 cams like the fuel percentage for correction.