Rep Power: 0

OK, I thought it was a long a tough job, but I tried fixing it and it only took me less than 30min... and the squeaking's gone

you'll need...
--multi purpose grease
--Paper Towels
--flat head screw driver
--2X M8 bolt
--socket wrench 8MM... I can't remember
--long tip pliers
--painters brush
--7MM wrench


UNASSEMBLE
--use the M8 bolt to take the drum off #3 (make sure the ebrake is disengage i made a mistake, i forgot to disengage the ebrake and lucky I didn't break anything
--do not press the brake pedal when the brake drum's out, the self adjust will keep adjusting itself that you'll have to reajust them again to where it will not hit the drum, when you're done greasing up... so don't press it, i'm dumb so don't be like me
--look at the shoes very carefully to where there's metal to metal contact, that's where you put the grease...
--clean the drums using the brush... i prefer wiping it with a damp paper towel
--take the bottom spring from the brake shoes #8 using the flat head screw driver
--take spring #21 off using the long tip pliers
--take the brake shoe clamp off push the clamp in and twist the metal using the long tip pliers
--you don't have to disassemble the top spring #7 just move it to where there's enought space to put grease on the side metal on the brake shoes to where it hits the back plate #4
--I made a mistake of trying to take the #7 spring out, but that was unnecessary knowing the the shoes are still about 80% pad left, and i'm only greasing up the contact point and not changing the shoes...
--If you happen to pop the cylinder cap, don't panic you'll be fine
--clean, brush the back plate with a brush, then follow it with a damp cloth
--let it dry off, and put a dab of grease on all contact point I put some lines on the picture above, but when you see the brake assembly, you'll know where the contact points are...

ASSEMBLE
--make sure you put grease on all contact points
--if you did popped the cylinder cap, put them back properly with all the rubbers tucked in
--put the spring #8 using the long tip pliers, by placing the pliers straight up and down on the hook of the spring it will go in easy, I did it with one try
--put the shoe clamp #29 back
--put lever adjuster back
--the the spring #21
--make sure the brake pads are back to its proper place
--wipe all excess grease or fluid spillage
--put brake drum back, give it a little spin, make sure it doesn't wabble, and or hits the pads... you can tell if it's not even, because when you turn the drum it makes a wabbling motion, or it hits the shoes
--bleed the brake line i did 5x 3 pumps a set, if the cap is not in properly there would be no to little fluid coming in the hose and you'll see fluid dripping from the drum
--put tires back and drive off slowy and start braking every 20-30yards
--if you spilled brake fluid like I did get a hose and spray some water on the fluid to get them off, they are highly corrosive so a little spray will get that off the metal...

and that should take care of the noise...


When I DE-PRESS my brakes... the REAR RIGHT drum brake squeeks!!! tafak? what do I do?

--open drum brakes, put brake grease?
--bleed brakes?

--what make's it squeek?

 
Rep Power: 302

It is probably your brake pad.

Brake pads have pieces of metal towards the bottom of them. When they are worn down, the metal is allowed to touch the rotor (or in your case the inside of your drum) and the squeeking noise is made. This is to alert the owner that the brake pads are low and need to be changed.

 
Rep Power: 0

but this is when the brake is RELEASED, I understand when it is pressed... yeah, I guess it needed to be changed... but it only had 43K on it and a couple of auto x's...

and I just searched on about changing the brake drum pads... seems like the timing's perfect... BOILERMAKER just did a DIY not too long ago...


PS holy crap!!! 3333 posts I am now officially a 7thgen post *****

 
Rep Power: 454

more then anything it is the rear brake hardware. I had the same problem, and when I last had my drums done, I replaced all the hardware and havent heard the noise since.

 
Rep Power: 335

yea, mines make a noise that sounds like there is extra liquid in my gas tank or something swirling around.

 
Rep Power: 0

43k on brakes?? Damn thats pretty good. Ive seen them wear out at 25k b4...

 
Rep Power: 375

i have 46k on my rears and when you release the pedal, there is a kinda sponge noise... i just have to take them to the shop.

 
Rep Power: 381

I have 50k on mine and am getting that noise as well, but I think it is my front pads, i just picked up a set of ceramic(sp?) pads w/ lifetime replacement at napa for like $33 not too shabby...

 
Rep Power: 0

i have 55k miles on my 2001, my rear brakes are perfectly fine, no noise at all. i downshift to stops most of the time though, saves my brakes a little.

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm very light footed when it comes to pressing my brakes... but i thought it was just the brake dust that needs to be cleaned and maybe some grease would fix it... but I might aswell change the pads, while at it...

 
Rep Power: 302

Being light footed actually wears your pads down faster. It is actually better to brake more briskly.

 
Rep Power: 0

^^^pwned!!! ... i also mean, not pressing the gas pedals, knowing the next stop light is red... you know what I mean? I know 98% of ya'll bastards do this all the time... they step on the gas like there's no tomorrow even if they know that they will stop on the next light!!! WTF!!!

 
Rep Power: 0

i had the exact thing happen to me. I was surprised tho cause the rear shoes werent even that worn out, they looked glazed tho. Yeah the spring above the adjuster is a bitch!!! it slowed the whole process.

 
Rep Power: 318

yea you dont need new pads man, you just need to adjust the return spring on the lines going out to your drums. When you pull up on your parking brake does it go up alot more than when it was new? If it does then put it up to like 5 notches and jack up your car, then take a wheel off and spin the drum. If it spins like nuts adjust the screw which is behind the drum. Its a little philips head screw cant miss it and do this until you cant spin the rotor. Whala your brake noise is gone...

 
Rep Power: 0

I got sqeak sqeak at 9000 miles.

 
Rep Power: 425

Drums have no indicator strips. You either have lining, or you don't. So you need to open them and check them. If they're squeaking without hitting the brakes, I'd look into something with the wheel bearing.... maybe you got some **** in there, or you may have some piece of **** stuck somewhere that rubs a rotating part. Drums get dirty. Vaccum them out and see if you find something.

 
Rep Power: 302

Wow, didn't know that. I always thought they did have the strips.

 
Rep Power: 329

to clear this up Drum brakes DONT have wear indicators on them !!! And as far as the noise , more than likely its caused from dry contact points where the brake shoe rides on the backing plate. Each brake shoe should have 3 contact points that may need lubricant(a heavy grease, some people use anti-seeze). Also if the brakes are severly out of adjustment the shoe will travel to a spot on the backing plate that may not have lubricant on it and generate noise.

Remedy: clean brakes with brake clean, and lube the contact points and properly adjust the brakes!!

 
Rep Power: 0

Mine does the same thing. It squeeks only when I DE-press the brakes. A little squeek, but loud enough that other people hear it. Its done it for a while now, and it bugs the crap out of me. Mine never squeek when I hit the brakes to stop, or when I am driving. They are very quiet. Never ever squeek, only when I let off the brakes when Im stopped. The E-Brake does the same thing, check to see if your E-Brake does the same thing. Possibly the Brake Booster, hows your idle? Im looking into this for my car right now.

 
Rep Power: 0

Multi-Purpose grease be good? or is there a specific grease for the joints and metals inside the brake drums... i have a can of senthetic grease, will that do? I haven't opened them yet... I will not have my day off untill 2 weeks from now... weekend drills suck ***!!!

 
Rep Power: 329

At work we use a silicone based lube, but ive seen everything from wheel bearing grease to anti-seeze . Pretty much any grease will work, it only takes a small dab at each contack point.

 
Rep Power: 311

going light footed on braking doesnt wear it down faster, what it does is causes heat with little force on the rotor so instead of wearing it down it glazes it over giving it a shiny coat and thus making any future braking harder because with this new smooth shiny surface the pads must knock that out before they can really grip again, you can pretty much sand it off but takes a while and you should know what your doing,
also if you are doing it yourself get familiar with the style of brakes in the rear by looking online,
i think civics use dual servo drums(correct me if im wrong) and all that means is that the shoes (not pads, drums use shoes) are stationary where as on a single servo drum when the brakes are applied the whole unit kinda shifts down applying more force to the leading shoe.... i think this is more for rwd or heavy cars.
just get familiar with the procedure for what to take off first and youll need to get the tools to remove the return springs and everything plus youll want to learn how to adjust the self-adjuster once everything is back on, (if you barely ever use reverse the adjuster should definately be adjusted because it only turns itself when you brake in reverse, otherwise you might get away with not turning it.

 
Rep Power: 311

go to autozone or w/e and ask for the smallest amount of high temp brake and bearing grease.

 
Rep Power: 311

im not very sure but i think that the rears on our cars are non-serviceable bearings

 
Rep Power: 311

im gonna try and find my material to check on my last couple posts to see if im wrong or not