Update on the oil cooler project from hell
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Update on the oil cooler project from hell
All I wanted to do was put an oil cooler in to keep the engine from frying a bearing on the track... the car has turned it into one disaster after another. I've solved most of the issues so far, but what should have started as a 3 hour job has already cost me about 7 hours flat on my back under the car and another 4-5 with the bumper off.... still not done. Most of the problems lie in the oil filter landing and the intake manifold brackets that strattle it. I first tried a sandwich filter plate, it fit, but the shape of the block casting prevent it from sitting flush on the landing, no seal, no worky. So I got a spin on blockoff plate and remote mount kit. Problem 1... relocation landing uses a Ford Truck Filter.... its huge. Solution, mount it in the bumper. No biggie. The blockoff plate doesn't fit either. Its diameter is too big and it hits the IM bracket before it seats on the filter landing. My only real option is to try and CNC the diameter down in a mill, I can probably do it, but I'm worried about breaking through the wall into the oil passage. If anyone has an oil landing that works with the D17 block, I need to know what works and where to get it... like NOW.
Here's what I got so far..
All the lines are -10 AN, By best guessing... the car should hold about 5 quarts of oil now.
Here's what I got so far..
All the lines are -10 AN, By best guessing... the car should hold about 5 quarts of oil now.
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by K20EQUIPPED
Cool...how much $?
Just think about it this way.... the AN fittings run $7-20 and the line is $6 a foot + the rest of the parts... extrapolate from there.
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From: so cal djmota=oscar
Rep Power: 323 pull off the offending im bracket and grind away until it fits. If it still does not fit, just run without it. They are way over engineered anyways.
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Originally Posted by djmota
pull off the offending im bracket and grind away until it fits. If it still does not fit, just run without it. They are way over engineered anyways.
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Rep Power: 424 They're permacool adapters. Its what I could get my hands on and they're inexpensive. The problem with inexpensive is they're also universal sized with the correct threads. Thats what I'm running into now is the oversize design for larger filter sizes. I'll try a few things tomorrow and see if I can fix the problem.
good to see somone puting a good mod on our cars, instead of complaning about there cold air not giving them 10 hp = ) keep up the good work boilermaker. i would be doing the same mod if i wasent selling my vic soon = P
looks sick btw
looks sick btw
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Originally Posted by Skunk2ner
awesome. i was thinking about doing this in the future. when you get it to work out, please make a DIY! good job.
Maybe a parts list, but this is completely unnecessary for a street car. Under normal driving or even spirited driving you'd be hard pressed to take your oil temp over 200-210 degrees. Running flatout for an extended period of time is what causes the problem, and its a condition you'll only see on a racetrack. Thats when temps go upwards of 260 and you have issues. Since there's only a handful of people on here who venture onto the track, there's not much need for me to write a DIY.
Looking good Boilermaker! Those are some beefy oil lines!
I am thinking about adding an oil cooler on my car. I am installing my turbo this weekend, and I have an oil cooler rad kicking around. The oil feed line for the turbo taps into the oil sender at the back of the block. I was thinking about just putting the cooler inline with that. The only problem I have is I am worried I might be cooling the oil too much, right before my turbo. This would cause the oil not to be in its optimum working temperature range and therefore provide less lubrication to my turbo.
What do you think? I might just wait and if I have any heating issues I can always add it inline later. I do do some track/very hard driving, but nothing as extended as what you were doing to see your problems.
Good luck with the rest of your install.
I am thinking about adding an oil cooler on my car. I am installing my turbo this weekend, and I have an oil cooler rad kicking around. The oil feed line for the turbo taps into the oil sender at the back of the block. I was thinking about just putting the cooler inline with that. The only problem I have is I am worried I might be cooling the oil too much, right before my turbo. This would cause the oil not to be in its optimum working temperature range and therefore provide less lubrication to my turbo.
What do you think? I might just wait and if I have any heating issues I can always add it inline later. I do do some track/very hard driving, but nothing as extended as what you were doing to see your problems.
Good luck with the rest of your install.
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Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
I HIGHLY doubt I'll be writing a DIY for this. This is what I would call a "difficult" project and I don't want to hear about it when noobs and idiots follow the DIY then bitch about spraying oil all over the place because a line blew off. It takes understanding of what you're doing, not just a pile of parts and a weekend.
Maybe a parts list, but this is completely unnecessary for a street car. Under normal driving or even spirited driving you'd be hard pressed to take your oil temp over 200-210 degrees. Running flatout for an extended period of time is what causes the problem, and its a condition you'll only see on a racetrack. Thats when temps go upwards of 260 and you have issues. Since there's only a handful of people on here who venture onto the track, there's not much need for me to write a DIY.
Maybe a parts list, but this is completely unnecessary for a street car. Under normal driving or even spirited driving you'd be hard pressed to take your oil temp over 200-210 degrees. Running flatout for an extended period of time is what causes the problem, and its a condition you'll only see on a racetrack. Thats when temps go upwards of 260 and you have issues. Since there's only a handful of people on here who venture onto the track, there's not much need for me to write a DIY.
good point. i do plan on making my 'vic track ready eventually. i'll probably bug you in a year from now on how you did it
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From: Washington DC
Rep Power: 424 Parts List - This is what I used, there are lots of ways to do this.
15' of -10 AN SS hose ( I actually used about 13.5' of it)
2 90 degree fittings
2 45 degree fittings
2 Straight fittings
1 90 degree 1/2" NPT to -10 AN adapter
5 straight 1/2" NPT to -10 AN adapters
1 Permacool universal Oil filter blockoff plate (M20 x 1.5 threads for filter) - You need to remove 0.300" from the diameter of the plate for it to fit.
1 Permacool remote oil filter landing
1 Bosch 3500 Oil filter (Ford 302 c.i. V8)
1 Tru-cool 24 row oil cooler
1 4" brass nipple
1 brass 90 degree bend
I intend to replace the brass fittings with an approprate angle AN fitting when I get a chance, I used them just because I needed to get the car running fast.
The system took 5 quarts of oil. I need to drive it around some more and see if I need more/less.
I mounted the cooler to the lower radiator support with a custom bracket. If you do this, do not use anything smaller than -10 lines. You may even opt to use -12 lines, but I don't think you need it.
15' of -10 AN SS hose ( I actually used about 13.5' of it)
2 90 degree fittings
2 45 degree fittings
2 Straight fittings
1 90 degree 1/2" NPT to -10 AN adapter
5 straight 1/2" NPT to -10 AN adapters
1 Permacool universal Oil filter blockoff plate (M20 x 1.5 threads for filter) - You need to remove 0.300" from the diameter of the plate for it to fit.
1 Permacool remote oil filter landing
1 Bosch 3500 Oil filter (Ford 302 c.i. V8)
1 Tru-cool 24 row oil cooler
1 4" brass nipple
1 brass 90 degree bend
I intend to replace the brass fittings with an approprate angle AN fitting when I get a chance, I used them just because I needed to get the car running fast.
The system took 5 quarts of oil. I need to drive it around some more and see if I need more/less.
I mounted the cooler to the lower radiator support with a custom bracket. If you do this, do not use anything smaller than -10 lines. You may even opt to use -12 lines, but I don't think you need it.
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I am thinking about adding an oil cooler on my car. I am installing my turbo this weekend, and I have an oil cooler rad kicking around. The oil feed line for the turbo taps into the oil sender at the back of the block. I was thinking about just putting the cooler inline with that. The only problem I have is I am worried I might be cooling the oil too much, right before my turbo. This would cause the oil not to be in its optimum working temperature range and therefore provide less lubrication to my turbo.
Last time I had this much fun some furniture got broken!
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
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From: PA
Rep Power: 360 LOL I was just thinking if you got anywhere with this earlier. Anyway nice install, and sorry to hear about your troubles. looks crazy. 
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Rep Power: 424 On Highway oil temps...75 mph... Was 200, now 155. In town. Was 200, Now 163.
Speed helps the cooling process obviously. Also helped the water temp too... pulled it down about 5 degrees. At somepoint I'll add a 180 deg. thermostat to it. Probably before winter. I have a feeling when the air gets cold, I'll never get the car to operational temps.
Speed helps the cooling process obviously. Also helped the water temp too... pulled it down about 5 degrees. At somepoint I'll add a 180 deg. thermostat to it. Probably before winter. I have a feeling when the air gets cold, I'll never get the car to operational temps.
Originally Posted by Boilermaker1
Totally useless. The most you can run through the sensor port is a -4 line. You'll be cooling oil by the drop. You need to run ALL the oil through the cooler for this to be of use. To just cool what goes through the line to your turbo won't drop the pan temp more than a couple degrees. The point of the cooler is to drop it 30+ degrees.
I think I won't bother for now, and if I have problems later I can always do something like you have done.
Thanks for the info
ps. wow, really lowered those temps! I think that that will really help your car not die at the track. Very impressive!
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
You do realize your not legal for STS now right? 
Last edited by Boilermaker1; May 6, 2005 at 11:02 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 I have a way easier way guys.....go to the dealer and buy an oil cooler plate thingy for a 92 accord. it fit right on with no problems. you can use one off of a B16 also. way easier than going through all that mess of parts. its 2 parts total not including hoses and the cooler its self. oh and be sure to go ahead and buy a couple of gaskets for it...you never know. I bought two and glad I did cause I cut one in half tightening up the plate once.
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Originally Posted by bradmanuwf
I have a way easier way guys.....go to the dealer and buy an oil cooler plate thingy for a 92 accord. it fit right on with no problems. you can use one off of a B16 also. way easier than going through all that mess of parts. its 2 parts total not including hoses and the cooler its self. oh and be sure to go ahead and buy a couple of gaskets for it...you never know. I bought two and glad I did cause I cut one in half tightening up the plate once.
Cooling oil with 80 degree air >>>>>> Cooling oil with 195 degree coolant. Equilibrium is as far as you can go... but that would take a long time to get there.
