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hi im just checking who has cooler and what brand is out there, because im looking to install one on a 5 speed 2002 ex but i searched but couldnt find much info on 5 speed only auto, whats the best tranny cooler to get ?

 
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This is not just a bolt on app. To my knowledge you can do this but its not easy. The reason why you are finding coolers for auto's is cause they pump fluid in the first place. But on the other hand a 5spd just uses the ol splash lube, which means no pump. So you would have to hook up a electric pump of some kind and drill holes for lines(may be able to use the fill and drain plugs) and plum it all your self. All that aside for exactly what reason would you want to run one? Chris

 
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Yea, I would think that unless you're REALLY pushing your tranny (which in these cars would be hard to do without some serious upgrades to the engine or a serious need for shifting lessons) you wouldn't need one...

 
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You don't need it.

 
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Jester has it right - if you think your mods/ride requires a tranny cooler, you undoubtedly have a HO engine, wheels/tires, handling package and all of the other high zoot stuff.

It's just not needed.

 
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but is it really needed on an auto?

 
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Not unless you're running a HO engine, uphills all days or just want a new gizmo for your car. Having a tranny cooler without other mods that make HP is senseless.

Trucks and SUVs get them as part of the towing package. No need for us.

 
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i thought so, but i have high performance piston return spings...those ar emore usefull than a cai right?...or would just having a cai be reason enough for one?

 
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Not a good enough reason, yet.

 
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oh, i have the ebay resistor too hehe

 
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Now if you get a high quality, all stainless steel, muffler bearing you'd be getting close. Aw shucks, I think I'd buy one just to be safe.

 
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yea, i don't think my tranny can handle the raw power of 95 hp, i think i'll swap my riding lawn mower tranny, it'll be better and stronger

 
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i really think i need a tranny cooler because im runnin 12lbs boost and i race everyday and drive up hills, ive been through 2 trannys and the synchros keep going bad and its all due to heat the tranny runs real hot and the fluid gets hot and its just sitting there its not like the engine oil where it has a filter and pump and filtration system, doesnt anyone on this site have a tranny cooler installed

 
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The oil system doesn't cool the oil off any. It never leaves the block. If you think you're transmission is running hot, I don't want to know what your engine oil temps are reading, and I'm sure you dont either.
You need an electric pump to drive the transmission fluid through the system, then you're gonna need to rig an outlet on the bottom and an inlet on top to route the lines through, and get it somewhere that it can have air fed through the grid.
Have you torn apart either of these supposed blown transmissions? Has someone confirmed its from heat? Or is it because they can't handle the amount of torque coming though it.

 
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90% of transmission failure is caused from heat, the 2001 auto civics lx tranny have overheating issues, i havent had any engine problems yet only tranny so thats what im worried about, the 7th gen civics areknown for crappy transmissions most people on this site how drive and shift hard have problems, and ive only been revving mine to 7k rpms and it cant manage that and i rev my fully built 95 civic d16z6 with over 100,000 miles to 9k and the tranny has never gone yet

 
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doesnt the engine oil leav e the block and go into head and filter, oh yeh my 3rd gear synchro only grits when ive driven the car for a couple hours and shift hard for the first couple hours its fine thats why i thik its needs peoper cooler and when i changed the oil it was real thin and broken down, i think its like you said it cant manage the torue but honda nd all my mechanics friends say its the heat

 
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Heat kills automatics because they use fluid mechanics to operate. It uses fluid shear to engage the friction discs. Manuals are just gears. Torching synchros isn't good but if you give them enough time to operate, they shouldn't be dying constantly, but the transmission itself should not die from heat. They'll go from too much torque, excessive shock loads (slam shifting/dumping clutch) or something mechanical that'll shear geat teeth or twist a shaft. The 3rd gear grind is just a common problem with just about every 7th gen transmission.
Engine oil goes into the head, where it just gets hotter. That doesn't help the cause. I bet if you stick a temp gauge in the pan, you're up over 270 in 5-7 minutes.

 
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thanks for the info man i dont know what im gonna do installing it is easy but i need some kind of pump because for auto i heard, check this thread out

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...31#post2981731

 
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hey do you know which design of oil cooler is better plate or tube and fin ?

 
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ok all i need now for thgis to work is a electric 12v pump, but so far i cant find the pumps for less than $150, what do auto trannys with atf use do they have a separate pump for that ?

 
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Yes they have a complete oil pump setup already. The oil pump is turned by the torque converter. It also has cooling lines already as well you just need to splice them to run any auto oil cooler you wish. Honestly if your **** is grinding in 3rsd gear a oil cooler is not going to help you. A new tranny or a rebuild of yours is what is needed. But if you insist on running an oil cooler setup on a 5spd look at summitracing.com or other race car type parts places. I am sure they have setups there. They even have oil coolers for rear ends(rwd cars). Either way good luck.

 
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so how do u replace the sinchros? i think i messed mine up. i also heard something about race gears in an auto.

 
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The synchros are in between the gears. They are what sets the gear to be meshed with the other gears. To take them out you would need to pull the tranny and take the tranny completly apart, at that point I do not know how to take these 5spd's apart, but general knowledge you have to get the main gear shaft(or cluster) out of the tranny and then take the gear cluster apart in order and replace the sync. then back together in order. In all reality just buy a rep. tranny and take your old one aprt for practice, especially if you have never done this before. Would you wanna drive some where and get stuck from a mistake........if not then do not experiment much wioth your dd! Good luck

 
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I too have had tranny problems but only with the main bearings on an '02 tranny. Using 1st gear while racing a 7th gen is generally to be discouraged, it seems no matter how smoothly you downshift to 1st, it still takes a big toll on the bearings. My theory at least is that it has to do with the tranny casting being too weak and flexing causing the bearings to wear prematurely, especially with the torque the tranny has to deal with downshifting into 1st at high rpms.

On the other hand, even racing the car I'm still on my first set of synchros with no grinding at all. My advice for making your tranny last is to shift smooth unless you really need to hammer it around. If you get good you won't shift much slower than your buddy who's beating up his box and yours will last twice as long. The shift speed on these boxes is limited by the syncros (it's that bit of rubbery resistance you feel when you go to slot a gear) so you'll never be able to shift that quickly anyways; anyone who's driven a dog engagement box will weep at how slow it is.

Personally I prefer not to use the clutch when downshifting on track (except 1st because it tends to be touchy). Upshifts I always use the clutch, these transmissions arn't built to take that kind of abuse. Now if I could find a dog engagement box for our cars (about the time pigs fly) I'd be very very pleased.

Getting to the point here you're not running anything that needs a tranny cooler. An oil cooler might be a good investment, I use one and the remote oil filter part is handy too.

 
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You guys seem to know about trannys, can any of ya help this guy...
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=211047

 
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I've heard the '04-'05 tranny is a little stronger for the 5-speeds, might try swapping one in.
But I drove a '94 civic EX with 14 lb's of boost for almost 20k, and the tranny already had 150k on it. I never had a problem, the kid I sold it to blew the 2-3 syncro out 3 time now in 10k because he just didn't shift right.

Boilermaker, I've had 5 civic's now of various years all the from '92 to '03, all of them have weak 2-3 syncro's, it's just not a 7thgen problem, it's a civic problem in general. You just have to realize this and accomidate for it.

 
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yeh but i think its alot worse on the 7th gens 01-02 because i have a 95 d16z6 tranny and i rev it to 8500 all dya and tranny is fine much stronger it has alot more mileage and i drive it harder and its never broke now the 02 i got ive been through 2 trannys they only last 30,000 or less, ive had slave cylinder break right off, clutch fork break off and stock clutch rattling and messed up

 
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Actually the high revving RPM will hurt your tranny less because most engines don't have nearly the torque at higher RPMS that they have at lower RPMS. And it's mainly the shifting part that kills so look at the torque at the RPMs you are at right after you shift (i.e. after 3rd it could be around 5k), so the torque produced at 5k is what your tranny really has to handle. So of course if you can go up to 9k, after you shift you are probably around 6.5-7k, which will produce much less torque than 5k, see my point?

Anyway, yes I do agree that the 7thgens are weaker than previous generations, but even the previous ones where weak. Like I said, I heard the '04-'04's where a little more beefy, but I have no proof of it my self.

I've never heard of the slave reservoir just coming off, that's new. It sounds to me like you got a lemon tranny though. When you replaced the tranny, did you fix the stock one, or completely replace the entire tranny housing and all?