Dezod Turbo Kit FAQ and DIY
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Dezod Turbo Kit FAQ and DIY
When did it become available?
1/2/05
What does it include?
Our base kit includes the following:
Garrett T3/T4 turbo or a T3 turbo
Dezod Motorsports Custom SS Log Style Manifold
Custom 2.5" Downpipe w/ High Flow Cat & 02 sensor capability**
TiAL Or GReddy Billet BOV
TiAL 38mm Wastegate w/ 5.88 PSI Spring (.4 BAR Spring)
Garrett Intercooler Core w/ Custom end tanks
Stainless Steel Charge Piping-Custom Made
Oil Lines
Most Fittings, Hoses, Gaskets & Clamps
Dezod Turbo Install Kit
Denso Iridium IK20 Spark Plugs
Synapse Engineering ML
Cost of these items, $3149 plus s&h
2-3 weeks is normal turn around time for one kit.
When you say optional equipment, what is "necessary"?
Well, the only necessities are what you don't have already to make this work.
We recommend the following at miniumum:
E-Manage
RSX Injectors
Appropriate down pipe for your model
Is it CARB exempt?
No, currently it is not.
What is the PCV system?
Positive Crankcase Ventilation system.
"The positive crankcase ventilation system exists to relieve positive air pressure from the crankcase. Pressure in the crankcase is created by piston ring blow by and by the up and down motion of the pistons (just as the piston seals the top of the combustion chamber it seals the bottom of the cylinder, pulling air in on the compression and exhaust stroke, pushing air on the intake and power stroke). In order to relieve this pressure, a vacuum pressure sucks the pressure out of the crankcase through the PCV system. If the pressure is not vented piston ring and piston ring land damage can occur from the rings being jostled around as the piston is drawn down towards the crankcase, fighting against the pressure. In a turbo application this system must be modified or it will not work. "
Taken from: http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq...rbo.html#Turbo
Which turbo will create and harness more power?
The T3/T04 will create more power than the T3 Super 60 at lower boost pressures. Both turbos are very streetable, however the T3/T4 we offer is an excellent large turbo that spools very quickly and offers a very nice top end you will not be disappointed with. The T3/T4 offers a vast array of options for future power potential up to and including over 20 PSI.
Do you offer any pointers to the E-Manage install?
Yes!! Soon the item will be plug and play for all.....Stay tuned.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=186443
Do you offer a basemap that I can use to get started?
No, until now. These maps are not be used as a final tune, but just something to get your started. See Dezod's Tuning Disc included with your kit when the E-Manage is ordered.....
__________________________________________________ _____________
DYI
1. Prep - When trying to boost a stock motor it is best to have one in good shape, thus finding a 'good stock' motor is not really needed because the oldest one on here is 2001. So that solves issue number 1.
It's good to know the general standing condition of your current motor, which is heavily advised. A leakdown test & compression would give a fairly accurate depiction. Obviously no existing oil leaks, knocks etc....
2. Help - We would strongly advise getting one or more friends over to help you do this. This is not necessarily an easy one man job, however it can be pulled off. A good arsonel of tools also helps a great deal. (sockets, ratchets, jack stands, allen keys, a jack....) However if you are limited on tools, don't fret...hand tools are fine for this install.
Some other tools that would help: an industrial strength light for those long nights, a hole saw, teflon tape, a soldering iron (electronics like the E-Manage, FATT, Boost Controller...)
3. Getting Started - First thing is first, jack up the car onto some jackstands, take off the front wheels and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
>>>
Now it's time to take off all that slow stock stuff (airboxes, exhaust manifold, intake box, your front bumper cover (for the intercooler and it makes it easier to cut) ..We suggest keeping the stock nuts and bolts and organizing them into ziplock bags to keep organized, which is essential on this short mission. Make note especially of the black clips that hold the bumper on. Try not to loose them or break them.
>>>
Take the O2 sensors out of the stock exhaust manifold to move into the new Dezod downpipe. Also it is a good idea to drain the oil even though you will be taking the pan off...it makes things less messy
>>>
Take a deep breathe and don't panic because your car looks stripped and poweless.....just get back to work now.
>>>
4. Let's Get to Some Good Stuff
When looking at the kit that we supply, you see the following:
-1 stainless log manifold
-1 turbo
-1 shorty down pipe with wastegate dumptube merge
-1 38mm TiAL wastegate
-1 TiAL or GReddy RS blow off valve
-hose fittings & couplers
-bolts for the turbo, wg, dump & down pipe
-oil T line and return fittings
- turbo gasket & wastegate gasket
-charge piping
-front mount intercooler
-denso spark plugs
--any other optional pieces you may have ordered.
>>>
Manifold, turbo, down pipe, wastegate & dump tube assembly
First thing we recommend is taking turbo/manifold/downpipe/wastegate assembly, and making sure it mocks up correctly before turning any bolts down tight. We recommend turning them from 1/2 to 3/4 tight. The system is a very tight fit into the engine bay so be patient
>>>
Next we recommend clocking the turbo...it is important to make sure the center section has the oil feed and return straight up and down.
>>>
After you have mocked it up with the turbo clocked, we suggest you put the blue elbow for the oil feed and the bracket for the oil return on before everything goes in. We suggest using teflon tape on the blue fittings to prevent leaks....it makes your life very easy......
>>>
Now you are ready to put it in...it takes some muscle and strategic fitting methods to fit the assembly in. Do not try to put things in 1 at a time while in the car...it is much harder...WHEN BOLTING THE MANIFOLD/TURBO/DOWNPIPE/WASTEGATE TOGETHER IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DON'T TURN ANY BOLTS TIGHT UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PUT TOGETHER WITH LOOSE BOLTS TO ALLOW FOR SOME MOVEMENT...otherwise it may seem like your parts don't fit together...
>>>
5. You're Moving Along Quite Nice (charge piping/intercooler)
Next thing on your list is your charge piping/intercooler set-up. If you take a look at your intercooler you will see that the endtanks are designed so that the air enters and exits on the same side (the passenger side).
The longest pipe w/ crazy bends and your bov flange is the one from the TB. This tube may be rather short by say 1" or so. This is because that pipe can be cut in half and a coupler can be used, because install as one piece may be difficult or impossible. We recommend test fitting first, and cutting if necessary. Remember to make the cut, if necessary, somewhere easily accessible so that you can get a coupler there.
On your charge piping you will see a v-band style flange for your BOV, very easy to put on...just remember the small brown o-ring goes between the tBOV and the flange (on TiAL model)...very important to remember...
Now you have your charge piping mocked up....time for your intercooler....on the top of it you will see a small, tapped post, ready for a bolt...drilled a hole into the bottom of the bumper support to fit the post so it could bolt to the top of the bumper support....it is nice to have a friend hold your intercooler in the desired place while you sharpie in the drill spots
>>>
Now that you have it all bolted in, it is just a matter of tightening down your hoses..but make sure to use a wrench or ratchet instead of just a screwdriver, because they could pop off while in boost. It may also help to spray the ends of the pipes and the couplers with aersol hairspray to help hold the couplers in place.
>>>
6. Seems Pretty Easy With This DIY - by now your car is looking mighty fine....you might even be tempted to start it up...but do not....you need oil to the turbo and some vaccuum lines hooked up!!!
>>>
7. Oil Feed - After you put on your blue elbow with teflon tape and it is fitted down snugly, it is time to actually feed that turbo, but where do you find oil pressure for it???? If you look on the back of the block above where the oil filter goes, you will see a sensor, this is the oil pressure sending unit, which is what tells your car when you have too little oil and that pesky little red idiot light to turn on.....this is where you will get your oil for the feed line.
Using the supplied t-fitting you will remove the sending unit, (it is a good idea to unclip the sensor so no wires become damaged) and you will replace in its sport the t-fitting. In your kit you will see a fitting with two different thread types on it...one side goes into one of the t-fittings holes and the other screws into the feed line...the other t-fitting hole is occupied by the sending unit...it is also important to use teflon tape on these fittings as well to prevent leaks (picture 7)...now just screw on the braided feed line to each end with teflon tape and you're set...
Now the turbo is pressure fed by oil. We also recommend switching to a full synthetic oil like Amsoil, GTX....Also, we further recommend taking some oil and filling the reservoir of the turbo prior to starting the vehicle.
8. Oil Return - This part is kinda messy...it is gonna require taking off the oil pan...but before you do this...mock up how you want your return line to go. It is best to have a straight down drop to the pan with as little bends and turns as possible. Remember this is gravity fed, so try to make sure that there is no resistance in the routing of the line. Take a nice sharpie, mark on the pan where you want to have it drain...
>>>
Now taking off the pan...there is a metal bracket that covers the shallow end that needs to be removed...then it is just a matter of some small bolts to take off...very easy...after all the bolts are off...just wiggle the pan a little so it comes off..you want to keep the stock gasket...
Now is where a hole saw will also come in handy!!! In the kit you see a large bolt looking thing..but it has a hole in the middle, this goes in the pan. It is threaded, so with the hole saw cut it just a bit smaller than the piece and then thread it in or you can weld it...whichever you choose...
>>>
When putting the pan back on, we would suggest using a light dab of honda-bond or something similar to the corners of the stock gasket and putting it back onto the block...PUTTING THEM ON NINJA TIGHT WILL CAUSE LEAKS AND CAN ALSO STRIP THE BLOCK!!!
>>>
Injectors - If you listened to us and bought the RSX type S injectors, it is a very straight forward install...unhook all the fuel lines to the fuel rail and undo the nuts holding it to the block......FUEL WILL SPILL/LEAK...
Now you need to remove the stock bolts because they're too short for the new injector size, which are longer and more narrow. You will need to use both of the nuts just taken off. Screw them both down about half way and make sure they are tight to EACH OTHER, then screw the bottom one like you are taking it out...repeat the same for the other...Any local hardware store will supply the required and matched thread pitch longer bolt for the new injectors. Now remove the clips that hold the stockers in the fuel rail, remove the stock ones, replace with the new ones, put the clips back on and clip the harness clips back on (picture 9)
>>>
Vaccuum Lines - You're getting close to being done...don't get discouraged!
For the BOV you will need a vaccuum source that is after the throttle body. If you look on the back of the intake manifold (picture 10) you will see two that will be fine...either one works great. For the wastegate, you will need any source and route it to the bottom port of the wastegate, or if you have the boost controller....it is going to be to the solenoid for it...a golden eagle vaccuum thing would make everything look a lot cleaner and easier...
>>>
Electronics - The e-manage faq thread (see top of this thread for link) gives more information than necessary to install the e-manage and i do believe there is a thread on turbo timers too...only thing you will have to do for those is locate the ecu (open the glove compartment and pop off the cips on the side)
VOILA!!!
Some Extras - just some things to take into consideration...
1. It is suggested by corky bell that the turbo be pre-oiled...
2. When working with open charge pipes and turbo...keep some sort of cover over it to keep any dust or dirt to get into them....use strips of masking tape or duct tape
3. Go to the E-Manage FAQ thread, upload the firmware & support tool updates. Then go back to this thread, and type in the maps provided in the word docs at the bottom of this thread.
4. Remember, FREQUENT oil changes 2500-3000 miles tops. All synthetic. Also, fuel octane should ALWAYS be 91 or higher.
5. Get a good tune...while starting it up for the first time makes you wanna r
omp on it...you will not be happy until you have a good tune
1/2/05
What does it include?
Our base kit includes the following:
Garrett T3/T4 turbo or a T3 turbo
Dezod Motorsports Custom SS Log Style Manifold
Custom 2.5" Downpipe w/ High Flow Cat & 02 sensor capability**
TiAL Or GReddy Billet BOV
TiAL 38mm Wastegate w/ 5.88 PSI Spring (.4 BAR Spring)
Garrett Intercooler Core w/ Custom end tanks
Stainless Steel Charge Piping-Custom Made
Oil Lines
Most Fittings, Hoses, Gaskets & Clamps
Dezod Turbo Install Kit
Denso Iridium IK20 Spark Plugs
Synapse Engineering ML
Cost of these items, $3149 plus s&h
2-3 weeks is normal turn around time for one kit.
When you say optional equipment, what is "necessary"?
Well, the only necessities are what you don't have already to make this work.
We recommend the following at miniumum:
E-Manage
RSX Injectors
Appropriate down pipe for your model
Is it CARB exempt?
No, currently it is not.
What is the PCV system?
Positive Crankcase Ventilation system.
"The positive crankcase ventilation system exists to relieve positive air pressure from the crankcase. Pressure in the crankcase is created by piston ring blow by and by the up and down motion of the pistons (just as the piston seals the top of the combustion chamber it seals the bottom of the cylinder, pulling air in on the compression and exhaust stroke, pushing air on the intake and power stroke). In order to relieve this pressure, a vacuum pressure sucks the pressure out of the crankcase through the PCV system. If the pressure is not vented piston ring and piston ring land damage can occur from the rings being jostled around as the piston is drawn down towards the crankcase, fighting against the pressure. In a turbo application this system must be modified or it will not work. "
Taken from: http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq...rbo.html#Turbo
Which turbo will create and harness more power?
The T3/T04 will create more power than the T3 Super 60 at lower boost pressures. Both turbos are very streetable, however the T3/T4 we offer is an excellent large turbo that spools very quickly and offers a very nice top end you will not be disappointed with. The T3/T4 offers a vast array of options for future power potential up to and including over 20 PSI.
Do you offer any pointers to the E-Manage install?
Yes!! Soon the item will be plug and play for all.....Stay tuned.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=186443
Do you offer a basemap that I can use to get started?
No, until now. These maps are not be used as a final tune, but just something to get your started. See Dezod's Tuning Disc included with your kit when the E-Manage is ordered.....
__________________________________________________ _____________
DYI
1. Prep - When trying to boost a stock motor it is best to have one in good shape, thus finding a 'good stock' motor is not really needed because the oldest one on here is 2001. So that solves issue number 1.
It's good to know the general standing condition of your current motor, which is heavily advised. A leakdown test & compression would give a fairly accurate depiction. Obviously no existing oil leaks, knocks etc....
2. Help - We would strongly advise getting one or more friends over to help you do this. This is not necessarily an easy one man job, however it can be pulled off. A good arsonel of tools also helps a great deal. (sockets, ratchets, jack stands, allen keys, a jack....) However if you are limited on tools, don't fret...hand tools are fine for this install.
Some other tools that would help: an industrial strength light for those long nights, a hole saw, teflon tape, a soldering iron (electronics like the E-Manage, FATT, Boost Controller...)
3. Getting Started - First thing is first, jack up the car onto some jackstands, take off the front wheels and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
>>>
Now it's time to take off all that slow stock stuff (airboxes, exhaust manifold, intake box, your front bumper cover (for the intercooler and it makes it easier to cut) ..We suggest keeping the stock nuts and bolts and organizing them into ziplock bags to keep organized, which is essential on this short mission. Make note especially of the black clips that hold the bumper on. Try not to loose them or break them.
>>>
Take the O2 sensors out of the stock exhaust manifold to move into the new Dezod downpipe. Also it is a good idea to drain the oil even though you will be taking the pan off...it makes things less messy
>>>
Take a deep breathe and don't panic because your car looks stripped and poweless.....just get back to work now.
>>>
4. Let's Get to Some Good Stuff
When looking at the kit that we supply, you see the following:
-1 stainless log manifold
-1 turbo
-1 shorty down pipe with wastegate dumptube merge
-1 38mm TiAL wastegate
-1 TiAL or GReddy RS blow off valve
-hose fittings & couplers
-bolts for the turbo, wg, dump & down pipe
-oil T line and return fittings
- turbo gasket & wastegate gasket
-charge piping
-front mount intercooler
-denso spark plugs
--any other optional pieces you may have ordered.
>>>
Manifold, turbo, down pipe, wastegate & dump tube assembly
First thing we recommend is taking turbo/manifold/downpipe/wastegate assembly, and making sure it mocks up correctly before turning any bolts down tight. We recommend turning them from 1/2 to 3/4 tight. The system is a very tight fit into the engine bay so be patient
>>>
Next we recommend clocking the turbo...it is important to make sure the center section has the oil feed and return straight up and down.
>>>
After you have mocked it up with the turbo clocked, we suggest you put the blue elbow for the oil feed and the bracket for the oil return on before everything goes in. We suggest using teflon tape on the blue fittings to prevent leaks....it makes your life very easy......
>>>
Now you are ready to put it in...it takes some muscle and strategic fitting methods to fit the assembly in. Do not try to put things in 1 at a time while in the car...it is much harder...WHEN BOLTING THE MANIFOLD/TURBO/DOWNPIPE/WASTEGATE TOGETHER IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DON'T TURN ANY BOLTS TIGHT UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PUT TOGETHER WITH LOOSE BOLTS TO ALLOW FOR SOME MOVEMENT...otherwise it may seem like your parts don't fit together...
>>>
5. You're Moving Along Quite Nice (charge piping/intercooler)
Next thing on your list is your charge piping/intercooler set-up. If you take a look at your intercooler you will see that the endtanks are designed so that the air enters and exits on the same side (the passenger side).
The longest pipe w/ crazy bends and your bov flange is the one from the TB. This tube may be rather short by say 1" or so. This is because that pipe can be cut in half and a coupler can be used, because install as one piece may be difficult or impossible. We recommend test fitting first, and cutting if necessary. Remember to make the cut, if necessary, somewhere easily accessible so that you can get a coupler there.
On your charge piping you will see a v-band style flange for your BOV, very easy to put on...just remember the small brown o-ring goes between the tBOV and the flange (on TiAL model)...very important to remember...
Now you have your charge piping mocked up....time for your intercooler....on the top of it you will see a small, tapped post, ready for a bolt...drilled a hole into the bottom of the bumper support to fit the post so it could bolt to the top of the bumper support....it is nice to have a friend hold your intercooler in the desired place while you sharpie in the drill spots
>>>
Now that you have it all bolted in, it is just a matter of tightening down your hoses..but make sure to use a wrench or ratchet instead of just a screwdriver, because they could pop off while in boost. It may also help to spray the ends of the pipes and the couplers with aersol hairspray to help hold the couplers in place.
>>>
6. Seems Pretty Easy With This DIY - by now your car is looking mighty fine....you might even be tempted to start it up...but do not....you need oil to the turbo and some vaccuum lines hooked up!!!
>>>
7. Oil Feed - After you put on your blue elbow with teflon tape and it is fitted down snugly, it is time to actually feed that turbo, but where do you find oil pressure for it???? If you look on the back of the block above where the oil filter goes, you will see a sensor, this is the oil pressure sending unit, which is what tells your car when you have too little oil and that pesky little red idiot light to turn on.....this is where you will get your oil for the feed line.
Using the supplied t-fitting you will remove the sending unit, (it is a good idea to unclip the sensor so no wires become damaged) and you will replace in its sport the t-fitting. In your kit you will see a fitting with two different thread types on it...one side goes into one of the t-fittings holes and the other screws into the feed line...the other t-fitting hole is occupied by the sending unit...it is also important to use teflon tape on these fittings as well to prevent leaks (picture 7)...now just screw on the braided feed line to each end with teflon tape and you're set...
Now the turbo is pressure fed by oil. We also recommend switching to a full synthetic oil like Amsoil, GTX....Also, we further recommend taking some oil and filling the reservoir of the turbo prior to starting the vehicle.
8. Oil Return - This part is kinda messy...it is gonna require taking off the oil pan...but before you do this...mock up how you want your return line to go. It is best to have a straight down drop to the pan with as little bends and turns as possible. Remember this is gravity fed, so try to make sure that there is no resistance in the routing of the line. Take a nice sharpie, mark on the pan where you want to have it drain...
>>>
Now taking off the pan...there is a metal bracket that covers the shallow end that needs to be removed...then it is just a matter of some small bolts to take off...very easy...after all the bolts are off...just wiggle the pan a little so it comes off..you want to keep the stock gasket...
Now is where a hole saw will also come in handy!!! In the kit you see a large bolt looking thing..but it has a hole in the middle, this goes in the pan. It is threaded, so with the hole saw cut it just a bit smaller than the piece and then thread it in or you can weld it...whichever you choose...
>>>
When putting the pan back on, we would suggest using a light dab of honda-bond or something similar to the corners of the stock gasket and putting it back onto the block...PUTTING THEM ON NINJA TIGHT WILL CAUSE LEAKS AND CAN ALSO STRIP THE BLOCK!!!
>>>
Injectors - If you listened to us and bought the RSX type S injectors, it is a very straight forward install...unhook all the fuel lines to the fuel rail and undo the nuts holding it to the block......FUEL WILL SPILL/LEAK...
Now you need to remove the stock bolts because they're too short for the new injector size, which are longer and more narrow. You will need to use both of the nuts just taken off. Screw them both down about half way and make sure they are tight to EACH OTHER, then screw the bottom one like you are taking it out...repeat the same for the other...Any local hardware store will supply the required and matched thread pitch longer bolt for the new injectors. Now remove the clips that hold the stockers in the fuel rail, remove the stock ones, replace with the new ones, put the clips back on and clip the harness clips back on (picture 9)
>>>
Vaccuum Lines - You're getting close to being done...don't get discouraged!
For the BOV you will need a vaccuum source that is after the throttle body. If you look on the back of the intake manifold (picture 10) you will see two that will be fine...either one works great. For the wastegate, you will need any source and route it to the bottom port of the wastegate, or if you have the boost controller....it is going to be to the solenoid for it...a golden eagle vaccuum thing would make everything look a lot cleaner and easier...
>>>
Electronics - The e-manage faq thread (see top of this thread for link) gives more information than necessary to install the e-manage and i do believe there is a thread on turbo timers too...only thing you will have to do for those is locate the ecu (open the glove compartment and pop off the cips on the side)
VOILA!!!
Some Extras - just some things to take into consideration...
1. It is suggested by corky bell that the turbo be pre-oiled...
2. When working with open charge pipes and turbo...keep some sort of cover over it to keep any dust or dirt to get into them....use strips of masking tape or duct tape
3. Go to the E-Manage FAQ thread, upload the firmware & support tool updates. Then go back to this thread, and type in the maps provided in the word docs at the bottom of this thread.
4. Remember, FREQUENT oil changes 2500-3000 miles tops. All synthetic. Also, fuel octane should ALWAYS be 91 or higher.
5. Get a good tune...while starting it up for the first time makes you wanna r
omp on it...you will not be happy until you have a good tune
Last edited by dezod; Jul 13, 2005 at 09:13 PM.
Dezod Turbo Install Diy since posting about the completion on the install of my Dezod turbo kit...i have had quite a few requests for a DIY. seeing as i'm one of the only people on here with one...i decided to take it into my hands to do one
1. Prep - when trying to boost a stock motor..it is best to have one in good shape...thus..finding a 'good stock' motor...as corky bell would put it...since everyone on here has the 2001 - 2005 civics this isn't an issue as much...but it's good to know...general tests would be advised....leakdown test...compression....etc
2. Help - i would strongly advise getting some friends over to help you do this...this is not necessarily an easy one man job...however i happened to pull it off...good tools also help...however if you are limited...hand tools are fine for this install...however some tools that would help...an industrial strength light for those long nights...a hole saw...some handy teflon tape...a soldering iron if you're gonna be a baller and get the e-manage and turbo timer...some welding equipment would be best...but i used some JB weld on those places
3. Getting Started - first thing is first...jack up the car onto some jackstands...take off the front wheels and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery...hence the first picture
...then it's time to take off all that stock stuff...airboxes, exhaust manifold, bumper (for the intercooler and it makes it easier to cut) ..i kept mine in my garage rather than disposing of them just in case i should be pestered with a ref ticket (california emissions suck
) or the need to sell the car...i also suggest keeping the stock nuts and bolts and organizing them into ziplock bags to organize...especially the black clips that hold the bumper on...also take the O2 sensors out of the stock exhaust manifold to move into the new stuff...also it is a good idea to drain the oil...even though you will be taking the pan off...it makes things less messy
4. Let's Get to Some Good Stuff (manifold and turbo)- when looking at the kit that dezod supplies....you see 1 log manifold, 1 turbo, 1 dowpipe with wastegate dumptube merge, 1 beautiful Tial wastegate, and also 1 beautiful Tial blow off valve, hose fittings, oil T, line and return fittings, some gaskets, charge piping and intercooler, i opted to upgrade for the turbo timer, boost controller, e-manage and extra injectors....i also got the 2.5 inch high flow cat because i had a DX and converted to the EX exhaust setup where the catalytic converter is under the car rather than on the header...
...first thing to go in for me was the turbo/manifold/downpipe/wastegate assembly...it is always good to mock up how everything looks before turning any bolts down tight...it is a very tight fit into the engine bay so be patient....when clocking the turbo...it is important to make sure teh center section has teh oil feed and return straight up and down...after you have mocked it up with the turbo clocked i would suggest you put the blue elbow for the oil feed and the bracket for the oil return on before everything goes in...i would also suggest using teflon tape on the blue fittings to prevent leaks like i had....it makes your life very easy...i had to take my whole assembly out a couple times because of this
...now you are ready to put it in...it takes some muscle and strategic fitting methods to fit the assembly in..and don't try to put things in 1 at a time while in the car...it is much harder...WHEN BOLTING THE MANIFOLD/TURBO/DOWNPIPE/WASTEGATE TOGETHER IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DON'T TURN ANY BOLTS TIGHT UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PUT TOGETHER WITH LOOSE BOLTS TO ALLOW FOR SOME MOVEMENT...otherwise it will seem like your parts don't fit together...refer to picture 2 and 3
5. You're Moving Along Quite Nice (charge piping/intercooler) - next thing on your list is your charge piping/intercooler...if you take a look at your intercooler you will see that the endtanks are designed so that the air enters and exits on the same side...facing the car...it goes to the left (picture 4)...when you receive the kit it comes with a picture of how the charge piping goes...so once again...you mock it up...when i did mine...my intercooler piping actually stuck out too far into the wheel well...so i did what any do it yourselfer did and i modified (picture 5)...i used a hack saw and cut off a small piece of one of the pipes...no big deal...function over form
...on your charge piping you will see a v-band style flange for your BOV...very easy to put on...just remember the small brown o-ring goes between the the BOV and the flange...very important to remember...now you have your charge piping mocked up....time for your intercooler....on the top of it you will see a small, tapped post, ready for a bolt...with mine just sitting there...it sat too low...so i drilled a hole into the bottom of the bumper support to fit the post so it could bolt to the top of the bumper support....it is nice to have a friend hold your intercooler in the desired place while you sharpie in the drill spots (picture 6)...
now that you have it all bolted in...it is just a matter of tightening down your hoses..but make sure to use a wrench or ratchet instead of just a screwdriver..because they will pop off while in boost...and i'm sure everyone will want to boost more than the engine can handle once they feel it
6. Seems Pretty Easy With This DIY - by now your car is looking mighty fine....you might even be tempted to start it up...but do not....you need oil to the turbo...and some vaccuum lines hooked up
7. Oil Feed - after you put on your blue elbow with teflon tape and it is fitted down snugly...it is time to actually feed that turbo...but where do i find oil pressure for it? ...if you look on the back of the block above where the oil filter goes...you will see a sensor...this is the oil pressure sending unit...it is what tells your car when you have too little oil and that pesky little red light to turn on...this is where you will get your oil...using the supplies t-fitting you will remove the sending unit...it is a good idea to unclip the sensor so no wires become damaged...and you will replace in its sport the t-fitting...also in your kit you will see a fitting with two different thread types on it...one side goes into one of the t-fittings holes and the other screws into the feed line...the other t-fitting hole is occupied by the sending unit...it is also important to use teflon tape on these fittings as well to prevent leaks (picture 7)...now just screw on the braided feed line to each end with teflon tape and you're set...
8. Oil Return - this part is kinda messy...it is gonna require taking off the oil pan...but before you do this...mock up how you want your return line to go..it is best to have a straight down drop to the pan with as little bends and turns as possible...make a nice sharpie mark on the pan where you want to have it drain...
now taking off the pan...there is a metal bracket that covers teh shallow end that needs to be removed...then it is just a matter of some small bolts to take off...very easy...after all the bolts are off...just wiggle the pan a little so it comes off..you want to keep the stock gasket...now is where a hole saw will also come in handy...in the kit you see a large bolt looking thing..but it has a hole in the middle...this goes in the pan...it is threaded...so with the hole saw cut it just a bit smaller than the piece and then thread it in....or you can weld it...whichever you choose...i chose to thread it in and then use some JB weld to get any spots prone to leaking..not the best way..but it works damn it! (picture 8)
when putting the pan back on...i would suggest using a light dab of honda-bond or something similar to the corners of the stock gasket and putting it back onto the block...i believe the norm is to torque the bolts to 8 ft/lbs in a certain sequence..but i just gave mine a half turn past the threshold and gave it a twice over...PUTTING THEM ON NINJA TIGHT WILL CAUSE LEAKS AND CAN ALSO STRIP THE BLOCK!!!
Injectors - if you bought the RSX type S injectors...it is a very straight forward install...unhook all the fuel lines to the fuel rail and undo the nuts holding it to the block ...FUEL WILL SPILL/LEAK...now to remove the stock bolts because they're too short for the new injector size...you will need to use both of the nuts just taken off...screw them both down about half way and make sure they are tight to EACH OTHER...then screw the bottom one like you are taking it out...repeat the same for the other...i just went to home depot and matched thread for a longer bolt for the new ones...then remove the clips that hold the stockers in the fuel rail...remove the stock ones...replace with the new ones...put the clips back on....and clip the harness clips back on (picture 9)
Vaccuum Lines - you're getting close to being done...for the BOV you will need a vaccuum source that is after teh throttle body...if you look on the back of the intake manifold (picture 10) you will see two...either one works great...i chose the top one...for the wastegate you will need any source and route it to the bottom port of the wastegate...or if you have the boost controller....it is going to be otherwise...a golden eagle vaccuum thing would make everything look a lot cleaner...and make things a lot easier too
Electronics - the e-manage faq thread gives more information than necessary to install the e-manage and i do believe there is a thread on turbo timers too...only thing you will have to do for those is locate the ecu ( open teh glove compartment and pop off the cips on the side) and locate the wiring for the ignition (take off the steering column)
Some Extras - just some things to take into consideration...
1. it is suggested by corky bell that the turbo be pre-oiled...i didn't do that part..but you could if you want to
2. when working with open charge pipes and turbo...keep some sort of cover over it to keep any dust or dirt to get into them....i used strips of masking tape
3. get a good tune...while starting it up for the first time makes you wanna romp on it...you will not be happy until you have a good tune
...pictures in the next post...
1. Prep - when trying to boost a stock motor..it is best to have one in good shape...thus..finding a 'good stock' motor...as corky bell would put it...since everyone on here has the 2001 - 2005 civics this isn't an issue as much...but it's good to know...general tests would be advised....leakdown test...compression....etc
2. Help - i would strongly advise getting some friends over to help you do this...this is not necessarily an easy one man job...however i happened to pull it off...good tools also help...however if you are limited...hand tools are fine for this install...however some tools that would help...an industrial strength light for those long nights...a hole saw...some handy teflon tape...a soldering iron if you're gonna be a baller and get the e-manage and turbo timer...some welding equipment would be best...but i used some JB weld on those places
3. Getting Started - first thing is first...jack up the car onto some jackstands...take off the front wheels and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery...hence the first picture
...then it's time to take off all that stock stuff...airboxes, exhaust manifold, bumper (for the intercooler and it makes it easier to cut) ..i kept mine in my garage rather than disposing of them just in case i should be pestered with a ref ticket (california emissions suck
) or the need to sell the car...i also suggest keeping the stock nuts and bolts and organizing them into ziplock bags to organize...especially the black clips that hold the bumper on...also take the O2 sensors out of the stock exhaust manifold to move into the new stuff...also it is a good idea to drain the oil...even though you will be taking the pan off...it makes things less messy4. Let's Get to Some Good Stuff (manifold and turbo)- when looking at the kit that dezod supplies....you see 1 log manifold, 1 turbo, 1 dowpipe with wastegate dumptube merge, 1 beautiful Tial wastegate, and also 1 beautiful Tial blow off valve, hose fittings, oil T, line and return fittings, some gaskets, charge piping and intercooler, i opted to upgrade for the turbo timer, boost controller, e-manage and extra injectors....i also got the 2.5 inch high flow cat because i had a DX and converted to the EX exhaust setup where the catalytic converter is under the car rather than on the header...
...first thing to go in for me was the turbo/manifold/downpipe/wastegate assembly...it is always good to mock up how everything looks before turning any bolts down tight...it is a very tight fit into the engine bay so be patient....when clocking the turbo...it is important to make sure teh center section has teh oil feed and return straight up and down...after you have mocked it up with the turbo clocked i would suggest you put the blue elbow for the oil feed and the bracket for the oil return on before everything goes in...i would also suggest using teflon tape on the blue fittings to prevent leaks like i had....it makes your life very easy...i had to take my whole assembly out a couple times because of this
...now you are ready to put it in...it takes some muscle and strategic fitting methods to fit the assembly in..and don't try to put things in 1 at a time while in the car...it is much harder...WHEN BOLTING THE MANIFOLD/TURBO/DOWNPIPE/WASTEGATE TOGETHER IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DON'T TURN ANY BOLTS TIGHT UNTIL EVERYTHING IS PUT TOGETHER WITH LOOSE BOLTS TO ALLOW FOR SOME MOVEMENT...otherwise it will seem like your parts don't fit together...refer to picture 2 and 35. You're Moving Along Quite Nice (charge piping/intercooler) - next thing on your list is your charge piping/intercooler...if you take a look at your intercooler you will see that the endtanks are designed so that the air enters and exits on the same side...facing the car...it goes to the left (picture 4)...when you receive the kit it comes with a picture of how the charge piping goes...so once again...you mock it up...when i did mine...my intercooler piping actually stuck out too far into the wheel well...so i did what any do it yourselfer did and i modified (picture 5)...i used a hack saw and cut off a small piece of one of the pipes...no big deal...function over form
...on your charge piping you will see a v-band style flange for your BOV...very easy to put on...just remember the small brown o-ring goes between the the BOV and the flange...very important to remember...now you have your charge piping mocked up....time for your intercooler....on the top of it you will see a small, tapped post, ready for a bolt...with mine just sitting there...it sat too low...so i drilled a hole into the bottom of the bumper support to fit the post so it could bolt to the top of the bumper support....it is nice to have a friend hold your intercooler in the desired place while you sharpie in the drill spots (picture 6)...now that you have it all bolted in...it is just a matter of tightening down your hoses..but make sure to use a wrench or ratchet instead of just a screwdriver..because they will pop off while in boost...and i'm sure everyone will want to boost more than the engine can handle once they feel it
6. Seems Pretty Easy With This DIY - by now your car is looking mighty fine....you might even be tempted to start it up...but do not....you need oil to the turbo...and some vaccuum lines hooked up
7. Oil Feed - after you put on your blue elbow with teflon tape and it is fitted down snugly...it is time to actually feed that turbo...but where do i find oil pressure for it? ...if you look on the back of the block above where the oil filter goes...you will see a sensor...this is the oil pressure sending unit...it is what tells your car when you have too little oil and that pesky little red light to turn on...this is where you will get your oil...using the supplies t-fitting you will remove the sending unit...it is a good idea to unclip the sensor so no wires become damaged...and you will replace in its sport the t-fitting...also in your kit you will see a fitting with two different thread types on it...one side goes into one of the t-fittings holes and the other screws into the feed line...the other t-fitting hole is occupied by the sending unit...it is also important to use teflon tape on these fittings as well to prevent leaks (picture 7)...now just screw on the braided feed line to each end with teflon tape and you're set...
8. Oil Return - this part is kinda messy...it is gonna require taking off the oil pan...but before you do this...mock up how you want your return line to go..it is best to have a straight down drop to the pan with as little bends and turns as possible...make a nice sharpie mark on the pan where you want to have it drain...
now taking off the pan...there is a metal bracket that covers teh shallow end that needs to be removed...then it is just a matter of some small bolts to take off...very easy...after all the bolts are off...just wiggle the pan a little so it comes off..you want to keep the stock gasket...now is where a hole saw will also come in handy...in the kit you see a large bolt looking thing..but it has a hole in the middle...this goes in the pan...it is threaded...so with the hole saw cut it just a bit smaller than the piece and then thread it in....or you can weld it...whichever you choose...i chose to thread it in and then use some JB weld to get any spots prone to leaking..not the best way..but it works damn it! (picture 8)
when putting the pan back on...i would suggest using a light dab of honda-bond or something similar to the corners of the stock gasket and putting it back onto the block...i believe the norm is to torque the bolts to 8 ft/lbs in a certain sequence..but i just gave mine a half turn past the threshold and gave it a twice over...PUTTING THEM ON NINJA TIGHT WILL CAUSE LEAKS AND CAN ALSO STRIP THE BLOCK!!!
Injectors - if you bought the RSX type S injectors...it is a very straight forward install...unhook all the fuel lines to the fuel rail and undo the nuts holding it to the block ...FUEL WILL SPILL/LEAK...now to remove the stock bolts because they're too short for the new injector size...you will need to use both of the nuts just taken off...screw them both down about half way and make sure they are tight to EACH OTHER...then screw the bottom one like you are taking it out...repeat the same for the other...i just went to home depot and matched thread for a longer bolt for the new ones...then remove the clips that hold the stockers in the fuel rail...remove the stock ones...replace with the new ones...put the clips back on....and clip the harness clips back on (picture 9)
Vaccuum Lines - you're getting close to being done...for the BOV you will need a vaccuum source that is after teh throttle body...if you look on the back of the intake manifold (picture 10) you will see two...either one works great...i chose the top one...for the wastegate you will need any source and route it to the bottom port of the wastegate...or if you have the boost controller....it is going to be otherwise...a golden eagle vaccuum thing would make everything look a lot cleaner...and make things a lot easier too
Electronics - the e-manage faq thread gives more information than necessary to install the e-manage and i do believe there is a thread on turbo timers too...only thing you will have to do for those is locate the ecu ( open teh glove compartment and pop off the cips on the side) and locate the wiring for the ignition (take off the steering column)
Some Extras - just some things to take into consideration...
1. it is suggested by corky bell that the turbo be pre-oiled...i didn't do that part..but you could if you want to
2. when working with open charge pipes and turbo...keep some sort of cover over it to keep any dust or dirt to get into them....i used strips of masking tape
3. get a good tune...while starting it up for the first time makes you wanna romp on it...you will not be happy until you have a good tune
...pictures in the next post...
Last edited by Havok2k1; Mar 30, 2005 at 12:19 AM.
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Originally Posted by StreetLevelPerformance
Before screwing with the injectors you may want to remove the gas cap. It will relieve the pressure in the fuel system and will reduce the amount of fuel spillage.
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Originally Posted by chubby
Im sorry to ask a noob question , but does the dezod turbo kit have an dyno sheet of the gains?
I play with 240's RB POWER!.
I play with 240's RB POWER!.
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Rep Power: 0 Whatever floats your boat. Tape or paste. As long as it's used properly, and in proper amounts and not gobbed on or wrapped 100 times.......I see no problem.
Turbos, Engines, Chassis and Suspension Tech
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Only use tape or paste on PIPE threads. Do not use any sort of sealer on AN style fittings. I can help install the kits if people are in need of assistance in the midwest.
Originally Posted by 4drcivic2k1
Only use tape or paste on PIPE threads. Do not use any sort of sealer on AN style fittings. I can help install the kits if people are in need of assistance in the midwest.
So when are you moving to the North East again
?btw Dezod great writeup. Do recommend a lot of/any dyno time?
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Originally Posted by winnerpl
So when are you moving to the North East again ?
btw Dezod great writeup. Do recommend a lot of/any dyno time?
?btw Dezod great writeup. Do recommend a lot of/any dyno time?
Thanks! Thank Fi Dx too.
I always recommend atleast 1-2 hours of dyno time in every case.
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From: Monterey, CA
Rep Power: 0 Re: Dezod Turbo Kit FAQ and DIY
hey, ive got a couple of questions. will the ic charge piping fit if i am using the d16y8 intake manifold with the side mounted throttle body? and i have the apexi vafc2 for my ex head swap, so i was wondering if i would be able to run the turbo if i just use that to regulate my fuel and then buy the boost controller and turbo timer, until i buy the aem ems? and also, what do you think is the best exhaust setup for your s1 turbo kit? the magnaflow, buddy club, or custom? if its custom what would be the ideal pipe size?
Re: Dezod Turbo Kit FAQ and DIY
IC pipes were designed around a d17 intake manifold, so you will have to do some modification to the pipe that reaches there to fit it up, being as the y8 manifold has the tb mounted on the side and not the top.
VAFC will work but I would strongly recommend running very minimal boost until you get in something worthwhile and tune it.
Best exhaust setup for any turbo is mandrel bent. I wouldn't ever go smaller than 2.5" diameter with a turbo car.
VAFC will work but I would strongly recommend running very minimal boost until you get in something worthwhile and tune it.
Best exhaust setup for any turbo is mandrel bent. I wouldn't ever go smaller than 2.5" diameter with a turbo car.
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so the vafc2 should work for now at like 7-8psi until i get something better like the ems. but i just want to know for sure that i will be able to get the ic pipe to fit onto the d16y8's side mounted throttle body.
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VAFC2 with turbo. Don't do it my friend. Those fuel controls advance your timing and thats not good with boost. Emanage is minimal for your setup IMO. PCS even better than emanage.
