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Like the topic says, I cant remove a bolt. It is the one where the upper control arm is connected to the knuckle bolt. Can I use WD-40, or would that be a bad idea. I am sitting with my wheel off and cant go anywhere until I finish, or give up. I dont want to give up, so please if anybody has some suggestions, let me know ASAP. Thank you very much!

 
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rear? Yes you can use WD40, just make sure it doesn't get on anything rubber. Get some leverage with a pipe or something and put some muscle into it!

 
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I feel like Im gonna break something. I am putting like 3/4 muscle into it and it still wont budge, and everthing is moving down as I do it. I need to go find that WD40 though. Thanks. Did everybody use power tools, like impact gun I think its called? Hand tools suck!

 
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Im starting to get pissed. I can not get that f***er off/loosened. At least I got to clean under there, but Im pissed. I need to go ask my neighbor for some power tools. Hes got everything for his "racecars".

 
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air tools...nah! all arm strength...well more my buddy's than mine. What bolt are you trying to get off? The one in the rear that attaches the camber kit to the wheel hub?

 
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yeah that was it. I got it off, and got the kit installed. I fixed my camber a little bit, the toe seems to be pretty dam* straight. I drove around and looked at the back wheels, seemed straight, and felt a little better than before, but pretty much the same. Only took about 4 hours, with 2 broken gorilla keys. I had to go to Discount Tire two times for them. Luckily the first one was free. Second time was a different person. They were like, "What the hell are you doing?" I was like uhhh, crappy keys.

How does the toe become off from just taking off the control arm?? It doesnt seem like it should change or be adjusted that way. I dont know much about all this, but learned a little today. I will search on toe adjustment DIY. Thanks for your help!

 
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the rear toe won't get off much. what you have to watch is front toe and rear camber. Toe in the rear is adjusted by one of the lower control arm bolts.

 
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just make sure firsr of all ur going right direction.. lol.. done that.. and second of just give it your all.. worst case scenario make the rachet arm longer by using another tool.. by making the arm longer the torque will increase

i cant think of physic's terms but..
20" rachet arm(lever) w/ 100lbs torque---
but a 40" lrachet arm(lever) w/ 100lbs torque @ end will produce double torque at nut..

so go grab a wrench.. put the closed end onto the rachet end and u can use it as an increased lever.. thats why the end of a wrench is angled... i cant explain it anymore but just try

 
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Thanks for all the info. I finished it all up right before you posted. The right side was a lot easier after I did the drivers side. Only took about 3 hours with lots of breaks. Not too bad considering I didnt know what I was really doing. The toe is odd a little it looks, but I am not sure, its pretty straight. I did change the camber from -2.3, -2.8 to somewhere around -1.5 on each side. I will get an alignment hopefully tomorrow, if not, the next day FOR SURE. Hopefully around 40 bucks, since the first alignment was 78 for fr/rr camber, toe, and a couple other things. They gave me no prob about doing a lowered car or anything, and were awesome people. So hopefully they'll hook me up. I will have them set the rear tires to -1 camber, and fix the toe, or whatever else is out. Is -1 a good place to set it? Thats what Im thinking.

Thanks for all the help though. I just tightened it all back to as close as I did when I got it off. I tightened the knuckle bolt after I put the car on the ground, so i am pretty sure everything is all ok. Nothing has come loose or had probs since Ive been driving, so I will just get it all back within specs tomorrow (if they have an opening).

Sorry, Im a little wasted, just keep rambling