crossover points for speakers
crossover points for speakers
Ok i've been searching and reading heres what i think I've learned. Subs, crossover point 80hz and below. My 6.5" between 80hz and 3500hz, tweets play from 3500-5000hz. And if you have 3way thats good cuz the 4" can play 500hz-3500hz and the 6.5" only have to play from 80-500.
Do i have this right?
Can someone explain where a slope comes into all this or where i messed up. And what si ovverlapping. thanks in advance
Do i have this right?
Can someone explain where a slope comes into all this or where i messed up. And what si ovverlapping. thanks in advance
slope is how fast it will cut that freq...even though you may have the subs set at 80hz it will roll off if you look at a graph so it will play into the high 100's but get quieter with relation to the slope of the crossover (24db/per octive is steeper than 12db per octave) the steeper slopes give you more control over the actual points and allow less overlap of freqs.
as far as actual numbers, that will depend on your speakers, install, amp power, sub box ect ect ect. i know that my midbass in my door is set much lower than my friends 6.5's (mb quart vs boston pros) because the install, the factory supplied crossover and the actual speaker, his are set around 80 where as are closer to 65. this is also because i have no subs.
i would suggest tune your mids to play as low as possible at the loudest volume you plan on playing it at. your rattles, distortion, ect will dertermine this as will your ears. then fade the subs in so there is a natural overlap....this might not always have it "hitting as hard as your friends" but it will be much more balanced and sound good if thats what your after...
as far as actual numbers, that will depend on your speakers, install, amp power, sub box ect ect ect. i know that my midbass in my door is set much lower than my friends 6.5's (mb quart vs boston pros) because the install, the factory supplied crossover and the actual speaker, his are set around 80 where as are closer to 65. this is also because i have no subs.
i would suggest tune your mids to play as low as possible at the loudest volume you plan on playing it at. your rattles, distortion, ect will dertermine this as will your ears. then fade the subs in so there is a natural overlap....this might not always have it "hitting as hard as your friends" but it will be much more balanced and sound good if thats what your after...
here's an example:

this is taken from a home theater speaker, but it's the same idea. The goal would be to get a flat response, same volume at all frequencies. Since you are using multiple drivers, you have to make it so that the tweeter integrates to the mid as smoothly as possible. As you can see in the picture, the tweeter doesn't suddenly stop playing at one frequencey where the mid suddenly starts playing. The slope is the slope of the decible drop of the mid and tweeter, and the volume at each point added up is how loud it sounds in total to your ears. if they over lap too closely, and the slope is not steep enough, the sum will look like a hump centered around the crossover frequency.
Most component kits out there have all that set already, so i wouldn't worry about it

this is taken from a home theater speaker, but it's the same idea. The goal would be to get a flat response, same volume at all frequencies. Since you are using multiple drivers, you have to make it so that the tweeter integrates to the mid as smoothly as possible. As you can see in the picture, the tweeter doesn't suddenly stop playing at one frequencey where the mid suddenly starts playing. The slope is the slope of the decible drop of the mid and tweeter, and the volume at each point added up is how loud it sounds in total to your ears. if they over lap too closely, and the slope is not steep enough, the sum will look like a hump centered around the crossover frequency.
Most component kits out there have all that set already, so i wouldn't worry about it
keep in mind that actual crossover frequency cutoffs are determined by the speaker itself, some 6.5's cant play much at all below 200 Hz, others can play down to 60 Hz or even lower! most tweeters can play far above 5000 Hz, many subwoofers cant even play 80 Hz, others can go to 120 or higher, etc etc etc.....
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