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Well just like the title says. Just bolting up an ITR or Comptech bar with a tie bar between the LCA bolts, or is it not strong enough to handle it? I just spent a few hours on Honda Tech looking at subframe pullouts from 22mm bars, and honestly I don't feel like having that happen, but I don't know whats been done to the new rear subframe to strengthen it.
I guess I'm gonna answer my own question and say I think it makes sense to get the progress/neuspeed/comptech integrated system, but I'm not really sure, and I'm thinking slightly irrationally since I've been putting this off to see what happened with the car and now I'm pretty sure I need it.... and want it by next weekend.

 
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You won't need to reinforce the subframe if you run high spring rates. There'll be less forces on it, there for less stress.

 
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Just get Greys endlinks and ull be set

 
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Hey Boilermaker1, I have the DC5-R bar on my car right now, with Energy bushings and Grey's endlinks. I also put on a rear lower tie bar before all that. I drive the car daily, and I do run it hard around corners every once in a while. Anyhoo, I don't run my car as hard as you do I'm sure, but I've had NO problems whatsoever with this setup. I was under the car last night actually just doing some general maintenance while repainting my headlights, and the subframe shows no signs of stress or damage, save for the rusting lower tie bar end pieces (time to replace soon!). In your case, since you hunt cones regularly, maybe the Neuspeed plate would be beneficial, just to be safe?

VTECTypeR, the endlinks just ensure the sway bar stays connected to the control arms. The subframe is another story, and even if the endlinks were welded on, a thick enough sway bar would rip the subframe. I'm inclined to concur with Roy in that higher spring rates = less stress as the car isn't leaning left or right as much.

 
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I was wondering the same thing my self. then I got to thinking..... If you can attach a subframe brace on one side of the Control arm mounts, then whats stopping you from putting another one on the back side?

 
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I would guess the only restriction would be bolt length, right? I don't think there's anything on the other side there....

 
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Might be possible to put another bar on the back side.
But I don't think there's space to put it.


I went with progress setup + new endlinks and its awesome.

 
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Now that's a compliment! Thanks dude. Seriously though, my endlinks cure baldness too!

No, but about the sub-frame... The only thing I would worry about is how to attach the sway bar bushing brackets to that sub-frame. The tie bar that comes with the Progress rear sway bar re-enforces that and the space betwean the two lower control arm connections.

So... The sub-frame ripping off of the car is kinda an iffy story. Is that what people say happens? I guess you could re-weld the outside of it where it connects to the rest of the chassis...

 
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The most common situation where the bar rips off the subframe is due to a car using soft springs with the oversized bar, so your chances of it doing any damage are minimal. You are on JICs, right?

For a few weeks, I drove without a lower tie bar so for daily driving, it's fine. I've been wondering this question for the longest. This is what my car looks like and this is what a DC5R's suspension looks like:


My car.


DC5R.

The DC5R does not have much of a lower tie bar (it does but it's very small), however if you look at the portion above the crossmember, you see it's pretty reinforced with something.

 
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Boilermaker, I was just looking at the design of the Progress reinforcement... Esentially its just two backing plates, linking the 3 bolts on each side of the control arms (attachign the 2 bolt hols for the Anti-roll bar attachment with the bolt for the lower control arm) and a tie bar that runs between the lower control arm bolts. So, couldnt you duplicate that by using some flat stock and a regular tie bar?



I Think I have a new project for when I go to my dads shop..

 
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^^^ I'm already all over it. I just need to drag my butt underneath the rear end and get the necessary dimensions to drill the holes. And actually I'm probably going to go a step beyond that, since its gonna cost me the same to get the flat plate to make it (I get charged for the nominal dimensions of the rectangle, regardless of if I cut it out or not) and I'll fab up something bad ***.

 
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You guys get to have all the fun with your fancy tools and metal!

 
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Cool. When you do, would you mind sharing the dimentions so I could build one?

 
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just get a progress rear tie/bar... cheap asssses

 
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^^ can you even buy it seperatly? (i'm going to be runnig a 25.4mm rear bar soon)

 
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Ok... lets think about this... progress kit is give or take $170 on a good day. I can accept the 100 for the sway bar, thats just what they cost. So the reinforcement is $70.
The amount of aluminum I'd need is about $16 + 2 or so hours in a machine shop drilling the holes.
Why waste an extra $54?