Can I trust a 22+mm bar with a non integrated reinforcement?
#1
Jap-Euro Fusion
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington DC
Age: 41
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Rep Power: 401 Can I trust a 22+mm bar with a non integrated reinforcement?
Well just like the title says. Just bolting up an ITR or Comptech bar with a tie bar between the LCA bolts, or is it not strong enough to handle it? I just spent a few hours on Honda Tech looking at subframe pullouts from 22mm bars, and honestly I don't feel like having that happen, but I don't know whats been done to the new rear subframe to strengthen it.
I guess I'm gonna answer my own question and say I think it makes sense to get the progress/neuspeed/comptech integrated system, but I'm not really sure, and I'm thinking slightly irrationally since I've been putting this off to see what happened with the car and now I'm pretty sure I need it.... and want it by next weekend.
I guess I'm gonna answer my own question and say I think it makes sense to get the progress/neuspeed/comptech integrated system, but I'm not really sure, and I'm thinking slightly irrationally since I've been putting this off to see what happened with the car and now I'm pretty sure I need it.... and want it by next weekend.
#4
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Age: 46
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 345 Hey Boilermaker1, I have the DC5-R bar on my car right now, with Energy bushings and Grey's endlinks. I also put on a rear lower tie bar before all that. I drive the car daily, and I do run it hard around corners every once in a while. Anyhoo, I don't run my car as hard as you do I'm sure, but I've had NO problems whatsoever with this setup. I was under the car last night actually just doing some general maintenance while repainting my headlights, and the subframe shows no signs of stress or damage, save for the rusting lower tie bar end pieces (time to replace soon!). In your case, since you hunt cones regularly, maybe the Neuspeed plate would be beneficial, just to be safe?
VTECTypeR, the endlinks just ensure the sway bar stays connected to the control arms. The subframe is another story, and even if the endlinks were welded on, a thick enough sway bar would rip the subframe. I'm inclined to concur with Roy in that higher spring rates = less stress as the car isn't leaning left or right as much.
VTECTypeR, the endlinks just ensure the sway bar stays connected to the control arms. The subframe is another story, and even if the endlinks were welded on, a thick enough sway bar would rip the subframe. I'm inclined to concur with Roy in that higher spring rates = less stress as the car isn't leaning left or right as much.
#5
Autocross Junky
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Age: 45
Posts: 7,211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 358 I was wondering the same thing my self. then I got to thinking..... If you can attach a subframe brace on one side of the Control arm mounts, then whats stopping you from putting another one on the back side?
#8
DIY King
iTrader: (61)
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Age: 47
Posts: 11,469
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 396
Originally Posted by VTECTypeR
Just get Greys endlinks and ull be set
No, but about the sub-frame... The only thing I would worry about is how to attach the sway bar bushing brackets to that sub-frame. The tie bar that comes with the Progress rear sway bar re-enforces that and the space betwean the two lower control arm connections.
So... The sub-frame ripping off of the car is kinda an iffy story. Is that what people say happens? I guess you could re-weld the outside of it where it connects to the rest of the chassis...
#9
All Eyes On Z
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: asdfjkl;
Age: 41
Posts: 3,487
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 0 The most common situation where the bar rips off the subframe is due to a car using soft springs with the oversized bar, so your chances of it doing any damage are minimal. You are on JICs, right?
For a few weeks, I drove without a lower tie bar so for daily driving, it's fine. I've been wondering this question for the longest. This is what my car looks like and this is what a DC5R's suspension looks like:
My car.
DC5R.
The DC5R does not have much of a lower tie bar (it does but it's very small), however if you look at the portion above the crossmember, you see it's pretty reinforced with something.
For a few weeks, I drove without a lower tie bar so for daily driving, it's fine. I've been wondering this question for the longest. This is what my car looks like and this is what a DC5R's suspension looks like:
My car.
DC5R.
The DC5R does not have much of a lower tie bar (it does but it's very small), however if you look at the portion above the crossmember, you see it's pretty reinforced with something.
#10
Autocross Junky
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, US
Age: 45
Posts: 7,211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rep Power: 358 Boilermaker, I was just looking at the design of the Progress reinforcement... Esentially its just two backing plates, linking the 3 bolts on each side of the control arms (attachign the 2 bolt hols for the Anti-roll bar attachment with the bolt for the lower control arm) and a tie bar that runs between the lower control arm bolts. So, couldnt you duplicate that by using some flat stock and a regular tie bar?
I Think I have a new project for when I go to my dads shop..
I Think I have a new project for when I go to my dads shop..
#11
Jap-Euro Fusion
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington DC
Age: 41
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Rep Power: 401 ^^^ I'm already all over it. I just need to drag my butt underneath the rear end and get the necessary dimensions to drill the holes. And actually I'm probably going to go a step beyond that, since its gonna cost me the same to get the flat plate to make it (I get charged for the nominal dimensions of the rectangle, regardless of if I cut it out or not) and I'll fab up something bad ***.
#16
Jap-Euro Fusion
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Washington DC
Age: 41
Posts: 13,151
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Rep Power: 401
Originally Posted by HondaLuver
just get a progress rear tie/bar... cheap asssses
The amount of aluminum I'd need is about $16 + 2 or so hours in a machine shop drilling the holes.
Why waste an extra $54?
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
solarpunk70
Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum
6
04-12-2016 11:43 AM
Raiool
Fuel, Oil, Cleaners & Other Maintenance
3
10-01-2015 10:42 AM