My Hayame V2 Review...
Thread Starter
DIY King
iTrader: (61)
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 11,469
Likes: 0
From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 

My Hayame V2 Review...
I installed the fronts only so far and I love them. They're good quality. The mounting point for the tie rod changed. It's OEM-like, but reversed. The ride is firm when cornering, but on certain bumps it's a bit jiggly. I think I'll put some more pre-load into them. Here's some tips to consider when installing...
1. The two big bolts that hold the coilover to the thing with the rotor on it that's attached to the lower control arm. That thing... You need to drive the bolts in at the same time. Otherwise you'll have a hard time getting both of them through all of the holes (alignment issues and such).
2. When adjusting the coilovers. First adjust the height by turning the whole coilover (grab the threads, sometimes the spring will turn the threads). Remember to get the third locking ring out of the way. Measure the amount of threads visible to set the height to be the same on either side. Then adjust the pre-load by tightening the spring down. Make sure the amount of threads betwean the upper locking rings and the lower one is the same. That's the easiest way to measure IMO.
3. Tighten down the lowest lock collar like hell. I had mine come loose and I could move the lower part of the coilover with a socket wrench while trying to loosen the bolt for camber adjustment.


1. The two big bolts that hold the coilover to the thing with the rotor on it that's attached to the lower control arm. That thing... You need to drive the bolts in at the same time. Otherwise you'll have a hard time getting both of them through all of the holes (alignment issues and such).
2. When adjusting the coilovers. First adjust the height by turning the whole coilover (grab the threads, sometimes the spring will turn the threads). Remember to get the third locking ring out of the way. Measure the amount of threads visible to set the height to be the same on either side. Then adjust the pre-load by tightening the spring down. Make sure the amount of threads betwean the upper locking rings and the lower one is the same. That's the easiest way to measure IMO.
3. Tighten down the lowest lock collar like hell. I had mine come loose and I could move the lower part of the coilover with a socket wrench while trying to loosen the bolt for camber adjustment.


Registered!!
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: , Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 
I can't agree with you more Grey!
For this price, the Hayames are as good as they get.
The install went smoother than I expected and besides really needing an alignment after the install, everything couldn't have gone smoother.
I still need to adjust the preload to find my optimal setting, but as of now, everything is perfect. Ride is amazing, no more bounce bounce bounce. The handling is improved drastically, all four tires are actually planted into the pavement at all times. And I mean all times!
I'm satisfied with the Hayames and with the tips Grey pointed out above ^, the install should be a breeze.
For this price, the Hayames are as good as they get.
The install went smoother than I expected and besides really needing an alignment after the install, everything couldn't have gone smoother.
I still need to adjust the preload to find my optimal setting, but as of now, everything is perfect. Ride is amazing, no more bounce bounce bounce. The handling is improved drastically, all four tires are actually planted into the pavement at all times. And I mean all times!

I'm satisfied with the Hayames and with the tips Grey pointed out above ^, the install should be a breeze.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 






I was gonna post in yet another thread, but that's gonna clutter up this forum even more, so here goes:
Well, OK so I got my Hayames in and couldn't really do a full review last night, as my toe was off (0.15LF, 0.35RF, 0.15LR, 0.05RR). The height and rear firmness issues were the only ones I could address last night, and address them I did in multiple posts earlier today. As of right now, after a day of settling and an alignment job, my front and rear gaps are just a touch over 1 finger - perhaps 1/2" between tire surface and fender.
Install issues: well, nothing to speak of, this install went smooth as butter. Once we flipped the tie rod, the only issues were: 1) We couldn't get the Neuspeed tie bar back on - agonized over this for a while, knocked a bolt loose from the upper strut mounts and had to take the wheel off again to find it stuck in a crevice on the shock assembly. Reassembled and good to go. 2) My friends and I each thought the other had torqued down all the wheels. We'd missed one....nearly lost my left rear wheel on the way home.....thunkity thunkity thunk. Scary ****. Torqued and again, good to go.
The toe was so ridiculous on my car, it was dangerous to drive. Turning was an adventure. But I eventually got it to IACTech after work (btw, they're having a special, 70 bones (CANADIAN) for an alignment job). They said the toe was so bad, they were having trouble getting up the ramp for the alignment rack. They had wood planks for the car to ride up on, but the angled wheels kept sliding them off. Anyhoo, got that done and off I sped.
I then got to really take my car for some spirited driving because I had to pick up my baby brother, deliver a set of bumper lights to Canada Post before 7pm, and deliver another set to a friend's house, all before dinner plans with the family at 8pm. So I used the opportunity to really grind into those turns, stereo off, to listen to and feel the way the car handled on the road.
Cornering and turning is friggin fantastic, in fact the amount of oversteer I am getting is taking some re-calibration of my driving style. That thicker front sway bar is tempting now, LOL. I can feel every little inch of the road, and while that may be a bad thing for many of you, I'm loving the feedback I get. Pretty soon I'll be able to tell you whether that little bump was a penny or a dime, ha ha. In a straight line the car is nice and steady, doesn't stray at all thanks to the alignment and the fact that everything is stiffer. The steering wheel response is nice and tight - more so than my stock or with my H&R's on stock shocks. Going over bumps used to be an unnerving experience, but now it's no biggy. The car does react to every little bit of bump, so there's a lot of me shaking in the cabin, but it sure as hell beats the retarded bouncy bouncy of my blown rear shocks. The car stays its course when going over bumps now too - HUGE plus. Also with the stereo off I listened for every tiny little bump, grind, clank, and pop while I did my thing round the curves. I heard NONE that weren't there before. The rear sway bar's bushings need grease and my floor bar squeaks against a piece of plastic panel - that's all. During install, I torqued everything to Honda spec (except that rear wheel don't remind me, LOL) and used the spanner wrenches to tighten the crap out of those locking collars. So if you're hearing noise, it's probably your install or your car.
Height - yes, I did take it down as far as it would go in the rear, with a 3/4" preload. Stiff enough, IMO, although when I put my sub box back in I may be tempted to add more. Definitely no less for me though. Up front, sheesh, I don't remember, but I know it was quite a bit - I'll have to take a pic at some point. Decently stiff, slammed it just short of tucking.
So overall, from my 24 hours of having these on, 4 of which actually consisted of having them on WITH ALIGNMENT, I'll have to give them a hearty 2 thumbs up. Note that I did not talk about how well they held up in the downhill battle or cone-conquering. Why? Cause if I wanted genuine $1100 motorsport coilovers that would give me a severe drop and still corner like a ****, with 36-way adjustability etc etc, I would have bought $1100 coilovers. I paid $650US for these and I expected a coilover set that would lower my ride adequately and make my street and highway handling better than stock or lowering springs with stock. Guess what, that's exactly what I got. This is by no means a shot at those complaining about these coilovers - your opinion is your own of course, but what I'm saying is that you DO get what you pay for. This is just a testimony saying that these coilovers do work, and I didn't really do anything out of the ordinary to make them work. Funny, SedanBoy's setup works pretty well too - Hayame's batting a thousand up here in Toronto, Canada.
Well, OK so I got my Hayames in and couldn't really do a full review last night, as my toe was off (0.15LF, 0.35RF, 0.15LR, 0.05RR). The height and rear firmness issues were the only ones I could address last night, and address them I did in multiple posts earlier today. As of right now, after a day of settling and an alignment job, my front and rear gaps are just a touch over 1 finger - perhaps 1/2" between tire surface and fender.
Install issues: well, nothing to speak of, this install went smooth as butter. Once we flipped the tie rod, the only issues were: 1) We couldn't get the Neuspeed tie bar back on - agonized over this for a while, knocked a bolt loose from the upper strut mounts and had to take the wheel off again to find it stuck in a crevice on the shock assembly. Reassembled and good to go. 2) My friends and I each thought the other had torqued down all the wheels. We'd missed one....nearly lost my left rear wheel on the way home.....thunkity thunkity thunk. Scary ****. Torqued and again, good to go.
The toe was so ridiculous on my car, it was dangerous to drive. Turning was an adventure. But I eventually got it to IACTech after work (btw, they're having a special, 70 bones (CANADIAN) for an alignment job). They said the toe was so bad, they were having trouble getting up the ramp for the alignment rack. They had wood planks for the car to ride up on, but the angled wheels kept sliding them off. Anyhoo, got that done and off I sped.
I then got to really take my car for some spirited driving because I had to pick up my baby brother, deliver a set of bumper lights to Canada Post before 7pm, and deliver another set to a friend's house, all before dinner plans with the family at 8pm. So I used the opportunity to really grind into those turns, stereo off, to listen to and feel the way the car handled on the road.
Cornering and turning is friggin fantastic, in fact the amount of oversteer I am getting is taking some re-calibration of my driving style. That thicker front sway bar is tempting now, LOL. I can feel every little inch of the road, and while that may be a bad thing for many of you, I'm loving the feedback I get. Pretty soon I'll be able to tell you whether that little bump was a penny or a dime, ha ha. In a straight line the car is nice and steady, doesn't stray at all thanks to the alignment and the fact that everything is stiffer. The steering wheel response is nice and tight - more so than my stock or with my H&R's on stock shocks. Going over bumps used to be an unnerving experience, but now it's no biggy. The car does react to every little bit of bump, so there's a lot of me shaking in the cabin, but it sure as hell beats the retarded bouncy bouncy of my blown rear shocks. The car stays its course when going over bumps now too - HUGE plus. Also with the stereo off I listened for every tiny little bump, grind, clank, and pop while I did my thing round the curves. I heard NONE that weren't there before. The rear sway bar's bushings need grease and my floor bar squeaks against a piece of plastic panel - that's all. During install, I torqued everything to Honda spec (except that rear wheel don't remind me, LOL) and used the spanner wrenches to tighten the crap out of those locking collars. So if you're hearing noise, it's probably your install or your car.
Height - yes, I did take it down as far as it would go in the rear, with a 3/4" preload. Stiff enough, IMO, although when I put my sub box back in I may be tempted to add more. Definitely no less for me though. Up front, sheesh, I don't remember, but I know it was quite a bit - I'll have to take a pic at some point. Decently stiff, slammed it just short of tucking.
So overall, from my 24 hours of having these on, 4 of which actually consisted of having them on WITH ALIGNMENT, I'll have to give them a hearty 2 thumbs up. Note that I did not talk about how well they held up in the downhill battle or cone-conquering. Why? Cause if I wanted genuine $1100 motorsport coilovers that would give me a severe drop and still corner like a ****, with 36-way adjustability etc etc, I would have bought $1100 coilovers. I paid $650US for these and I expected a coilover set that would lower my ride adequately and make my street and highway handling better than stock or lowering springs with stock. Guess what, that's exactly what I got. This is by no means a shot at those complaining about these coilovers - your opinion is your own of course, but what I'm saying is that you DO get what you pay for. This is just a testimony saying that these coilovers do work, and I didn't really do anything out of the ordinary to make them work. Funny, SedanBoy's setup works pretty well too - Hayame's batting a thousand up here in Toronto, Canada.
Registered!!
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: , Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 
From what I'm experiencing and seeing, anything between my "softer" settings and Telly's "Firmer" setting should be ok. I mean there shouldn't be any rubbing, banging, or other complecations with the install and usage of the Hayames.
Once again, for the price you pay for these, they serve their purpose and perform, up to and exceeding, in my opinion, expectations and descriptions.
I am a satisfied Hayame V2 owner and user and think that the money invested is being used to it's fullest.
Once again, for the price you pay for these, they serve their purpose and perform, up to and exceeding, in my opinion, expectations and descriptions.
I am a satisfied Hayame V2 owner and user and think that the money invested is being used to it's fullest.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 






Yeah dacivic, just give them a shot. I understand your situation is a little delicate what with having to send the others back, and any kind of negative bias (which I don't think you have anyway) is to be expected. But even after all the complaints I read on here, and the threads to "Complain to the BBB", I gathered my courage and proceeded with install anyway. I'm ecstatic with my choice and it couldn't have gone better for me. Well, it could have if I'd gotten these for free and I'd remembered to torque on that rear wheel and my alignment hadn't flown so far out of whack.
*Update: took my baby round some curves around Centerview Drive on the way to work this morning. Increased confidence rounding those turns, at *ahem* high speeds.
*Update: took my baby round some curves around Centerview Drive on the way to work this morning. Increased confidence rounding those turns, at *ahem* high speeds.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 






For me, it was the quality FOR the price. They're not Teins, keep that in mind. But then again they don't cost a grand....unless you're Canadian, LOL. They feel good and ride well in my opinion and I expect them to continue to do so for a long time.
Gonna drop the front some more next weekend maybe. We'll see how low the rear sits when the sub box is put back in.
Gonna drop the front some more next weekend maybe. We'll see how low the rear sits when the sub box is put back in.
Yea ever since the first day I haven't slow down on turns (totally enjoy it). Just the clicking and little drop on rear made me unhappy about this product. I will give a review once I get my v2.
alienmeatstack as long as you are not looking for smooth, slam ride and low on budget. This is the one to get. You can adjust the height easily (great for winter), stiff enough and great on cornering.
alienmeatstack as long as you are not looking for smooth, slam ride and low on budget. This is the one to get. You can adjust the height easily (great for winter), stiff enough and great on cornering.
Last edited by dacivic; Jun 23, 2004 at 04:09 PM.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 






Just adding to my review - heard a click this morning up front, passenger side. Methinks it's the 3rd locknut, as it wasn't there last night...I blame Loblaws speedbumps and crazy cornering. I'll tighten it up tonight, will keep you all posted.
Thread Starter
DIY King
iTrader: (61)
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 11,469
Likes: 0
From: Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, US
Rep Power: 419 

Yeah, I almost want to get another locknut myself. Then I'de have four lock nuts. Two up top and two down below. I think that would be nice.
Anyone know if and where you can get them?
Anyone know if and where you can get them? Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 






Perhaps SPW can help you with said parts. Wouldn't be a bad idea, although a little overkill.
I tightened my passenger locknut this afternoon. It HAD come loose, ever so slightly. I used a hammer on the spanner wrench to lock that bish down TIGHT. Took the car back out for some quick corners - no more clicking! I didn't have time to do the driver's side front or either rear - ah hell, i'll do it this weekend.
By the by, I rolled my wheel up onto a block of wood so I could get enough clearance to slide the jack under. When I pulled up the front left side of the car, check out the rear:

Don't see THAT very often.
I tightened my passenger locknut this afternoon. It HAD come loose, ever so slightly. I used a hammer on the spanner wrench to lock that bish down TIGHT. Took the car back out for some quick corners - no more clicking! I didn't have time to do the driver's side front or either rear - ah hell, i'll do it this weekend.
By the by, I rolled my wheel up onto a block of wood so I could get enough clearance to slide the jack under. When I pulled up the front left side of the car, check out the rear:

Don't see THAT very often.
The Standard One
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,659
Likes: 1
From: City of Angels, California, US
Rep Power: 417 

haha crazy.. yeah thats the advantage or shortening the actual strut...
yeah i've thought about the extra locknut too but then i was thinking a rubber washer would probably work best. I got this idea from my weights... one side has a rubber washer and the other doesnt. on the one that does it never gets loose but the one that doesnt does as soon as i pick the weights up
yeah i've thought about the extra locknut too but then i was thinking a rubber washer would probably work best. I got this idea from my weights... one side has a rubber washer and the other doesnt. on the one that does it never gets loose but the one that doesnt does as soon as i pick the weights up
Registered!!
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,028
Likes: 0
From: , Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 
I LOVE these Hayames!!!!!!!!
I was definitely taking the same off ramp atleast 20-30 km/h faster than I normally could!
Now I'm itching to stiffen them up a bit more and see how much better thyey handle!
Damn, I never imagined it handling this good.
Just had to share my joy and experiences. keke
I was definitely taking the same off ramp atleast 20-30 km/h faster than I normally could!
Now I'm itching to stiffen them up a bit more and see how much better thyey handle!
Damn, I never imagined it handling this good.
Just had to share my joy and experiences. keke
Yes, it's an Acura EL
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 8,248
Likes: 0
From: 416-905, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 368 






Hurray! Way less noise than my H&R's now. A word of advice to anyone with these: Once you get your desired ride height, tighten the hell out of that third locknut. Otherwise the noises you get will be VERY disturbing. On my way home last night, if I didn't know what was already going on (loose 3rd locknut on passenger front) I would have pulled over freakin out.
Registered!!
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
From: North York, Ontario, Canada
Rep Power: 0 
Telly - the ubiquitous Motomaster hydraulic jack in your pic, lol. I'm riding the V1's and I haven't been keeping up with the Suspension forum all that much. I can see they added a bracket for the brake lines on the fronts, bah, I'm using zip-ties now and its all good.
My cornering is un-freaking-real riding on Hayames, especially with the RSX Type-S sway bar. I'm running about a 1 1/2 finger gap all around, with pretty serious pre-load on the rears. yes, the ride is extremely stiff. I can't drink a Tim Horton's coffee without spilling half of it on me. Drinking coffee and driving has become a subtle art of taking sips when i see that there are no bumps ahead of me.
Initially, I was experiencing serious over-steer when I passed the limits of adhesion around corners. I decreased the rear pre-load, thereby softening the ride a bit, and it's now pretty much balanced with very slight understeer when driven to the extreme.
My only beef is with the bottom adjustment nut, ie: the one that prevents the strut from turning. Seems its always coming loose, no matter how much I tighten it. I wish they'd made the fronts with FOUR nuts. I cleaned and polished my wheels today, and really REALLY heaved on the bottom nut. I'm talking >100 ft-lbs! Let's hope they stay put.
For the price, I cannot stress enough that these coilovers are awesome. Like Telly said, they aren't Teins, but wouldn't you rather spend the extra few hundred bucks somwhere else?
My cornering is un-freaking-real riding on Hayames, especially with the RSX Type-S sway bar. I'm running about a 1 1/2 finger gap all around, with pretty serious pre-load on the rears. yes, the ride is extremely stiff. I can't drink a Tim Horton's coffee without spilling half of it on me. Drinking coffee and driving has become a subtle art of taking sips when i see that there are no bumps ahead of me.
Initially, I was experiencing serious over-steer when I passed the limits of adhesion around corners. I decreased the rear pre-load, thereby softening the ride a bit, and it's now pretty much balanced with very slight understeer when driven to the extreme.
My only beef is with the bottom adjustment nut, ie: the one that prevents the strut from turning. Seems its always coming loose, no matter how much I tighten it. I wish they'd made the fronts with FOUR nuts. I cleaned and polished my wheels today, and really REALLY heaved on the bottom nut. I'm talking >100 ft-lbs! Let's hope they stay put.
For the price, I cannot stress enough that these coilovers are awesome. Like Telly said, they aren't Teins, but wouldn't you rather spend the extra few hundred bucks somwhere else?
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post



