Hayame Rear - odd imbalance!?!
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Hayame Rear - odd imbalance!?!
I'm hoping some fellow Hayame owners can shed some light / help me out here. I've had my hayames in for about 2 months now. I took the time this weekend to adjust all four corners so the ride height and preload would be equal. Here's the problem, though: I set my rears exactly the same (bottomed out the up/down adjustment, set the preload to a defined height from the 3rd locknut). My right side has about 3/4" of additional wheel gap! The only way I could even things out was to set the preload to ZERO on the right side, something i really don't want to do.
I'm not sure if I've overlooked something. What I found odd is that even at the bottomed-out setting with zero pre-load, I still have about a 1/2 finger gap, ie: I can't tuck my tires into the fenders. I wasn't planning on doing so anyway, but I thought they could go much lower. In contrast, my fronts have about a 1 finger gap and a lot more room to slam even lower.
I know there was some discussion about some owners getting the wrong springs. I double checked everything and I do indeed have the correct ones for my car. Any thoughts?
EL
I'm not sure if I've overlooked something. What I found odd is that even at the bottomed-out setting with zero pre-load, I still have about a 1/2 finger gap, ie: I can't tuck my tires into the fenders. I wasn't planning on doing so anyway, but I thought they could go much lower. In contrast, my fronts have about a 1 finger gap and a lot more room to slam even lower.
I know there was some discussion about some owners getting the wrong springs. I double checked everything and I do indeed have the correct ones for my car. Any thoughts?
EL
The drivers side is heavier on the Civics, your EL which is essentially a Civic will probally have the same problem.
The easiest way to measure the ride height is by using a measuring tape and measure either the wheel gap, or from the bottom of the tire to the fender edge, just make sure the tape is in the centre of the wheel.
This is normal, nothing really is wrong.
The easiest way to measure the ride height is by using a measuring tape and measure either the wheel gap, or from the bottom of the tire to the fender edge, just make sure the tape is in the centre of the wheel.
This is normal, nothing really is wrong.
Last edited by MrWong; May 23, 2004 at 01:09 AM.
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Rep Power: 0 I've been using a 24" carpenter's square to measure the distance from the ground to the top of the wheel well. Very accurate way of measuring things. Makes sense now, and I was thinking something was horribly wrong with my hayames and/or other parts. Alright, I'll adjust things accordingly!
Originally Posted by MrWong
The easiest way to measure the ride height is by using a measuring tape and measure either the wheel gap, or from the bottom of the tire to the fender edge, just make sure the tape is in the centre of the wheel.
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Rep Power: 0 You're right, compared to some other coil-overs the Hayames can't go that low. For me, I was looking more for a performance upgrade than a style upgrade. Right now, I have them set to about a 1-finger gap all round. The rears will NOT go any lower. The fronts, however, could probably go much lower.
The key thing is that I wanted my suspension to be set-up such that the rear camber was still within factory specs. I set my rear camber to about -0.5° and have no rubbing issues. Dropping my car any lower would have required much more negative camber.
I can't stress this enough - Hayame's are the freaking **** when it comes to handling. Couple them with a stiffer rear sway bar and your car will handle as though it was riding on rails. I went out last night and took my buddy out for a spin. He owns a Lexus IS300 and was shocked at how well my car cornered. I mean, it's bordering on Miata-like handling.
The key thing is that I wanted my suspension to be set-up such that the rear camber was still within factory specs. I set my rear camber to about -0.5° and have no rubbing issues. Dropping my car any lower would have required much more negative camber.
I can't stress this enough - Hayame's are the freaking **** when it comes to handling. Couple them with a stiffer rear sway bar and your car will handle as though it was riding on rails. I went out last night and took my buddy out for a spin. He owns a Lexus IS300 and was shocked at how well my car cornered. I mean, it's bordering on Miata-like handling.
For mine, I could tuck the tires on 15s in the front. The car (front subframe) would be 2 3/4 inches fron the ground.
The rear - Hayame ****ed up for some people's rear coilovers (not being able to go that low) while others were able to tuck the rear.
The rear - Hayame ****ed up for some people's rear coilovers (not being able to go that low) while others were able to tuck the rear.
Yes, it's an Acura EL
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Hey ELAudio, I'm STILL waiting for my Hayames. For a while I was worried about not being able to slam the rear, but even now (tucked slightly) my exhaust rear section contacts my 22mm DC5-R rear sway bar. So I don't actually mind...a 1-finger gap should do me. But if they take any longer, I'm gonna grab NEX or Tein Basic....this wait is KILLING ME.
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