Which Subs?!?!??
hey guys/gals, i am now looking for subs, and i am thinking between dual 10" Alpine Type-R, dual 10" JL W3, or single 12" JL W6. I am going to run the subs on Kenwood KAC-7201 amp. I just want a CLEAN thump to my music, nothing that would give me a headache after driving. Budget is around $220. Thanks.
i boogie for the raindrops
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your amp does almost 500 w rms @ 4 ohms, more like 450. have you considered maybe a single w6v2?
EDIT:
w6v2 only comes in dual 4 ohm, no good for your amp
also, w6 only comes in dual 6 ohm. again, no good for your amp
single sub would have to be single 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm, and a pair of subs would have to be single 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm
EDIT:
w6v2 only comes in dual 4 ohm, no good for your amp
also, w6 only comes in dual 6 ohm. again, no good for your amp
single sub would have to be single 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm, and a pair of subs would have to be single 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm
Last edited by LudlamTheory; Jan 20, 2004 at 02:48 AM.
hehe Thanks guys for the quick replys, i went and got myself a 12" JL W3V2 D4. I just finish building my single sub box using JL sealed box diminsions. Now i'm just waiting on my amp to get shipped in. Thanks for helping me with the tough decision =)
ThE CoRRupToR
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^^Is that off ebay or some audio shop site? Cuz I have the same kenwood amp ur gettin and i have 1 12" sub made by memphis and that **** bumps!! And as for the ohm thingy I dunno know about that either.
unfortunately, he is right, the D4 is a dual 4 ohm woofer, and the kenwood is a 4 ohm stable amp. that means that the JL can only be wired for either a 2 ohm or an 8 ohm load. wiring it for 8 ohms will work just fine, but cuts hte power going to your JL in half, itd only get like 220 watts instead of 460.
the JL12W3V2D2 is a d2 model, dual 2 ohm coils, and could be wired for 4 ohm operation or 1 ohm operation. this would take full advantage of that amplifier.
I might consider purchasing a second 12w3v2d4, 200 rms is just enough to power it, you can put them in a large oversized sealed box and still achieve full excursion, and drive the amp to its limits, not to mention double your potential displacement.
if you can return the woofer or amp, or sell one, id consider doing that too.
the JL12W3V2D2 is a d2 model, dual 2 ohm coils, and could be wired for 4 ohm operation or 1 ohm operation. this would take full advantage of that amplifier.
I might consider purchasing a second 12w3v2d4, 200 rms is just enough to power it, you can put them in a large oversized sealed box and still achieve full excursion, and drive the amp to its limits, not to mention double your potential displacement.
if you can return the woofer or amp, or sell one, id consider doing that too.
Yup. At 16 you have a lot to learn young grasshopper.
FYI, WhiteRabbit and Ludlam are about the most knowledgable on the board.
I suggest researching about ohm loads and stuff. Its not that hard and it will help things make a lot more sense. Besides, I doubt this will be your last system.
FYI, WhiteRabbit and Ludlam are about the most knowledgable on the board.
I suggest researching about ohm loads and stuff. Its not that hard and it will help things make a lot more sense. Besides, I doubt this will be your last system.
Well i took the sub back to Cartoys, and they told me that i can hook a 12" JL W3V2 D6 running parallel to the amp..they said it should work fine..would it be any difference from doing that or just getting a D2 and running it series?
Kenwood KAC-7201
150 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
230 watts x 2 at 2 ohms
460 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
So to get the most power to a single 12" you want to use it bridged at 4 ohms. The only way to get a single JL W3 at 4 ohms is to get the DVC 2 ohm version and wire it in series inside the box. This way the coils add together (2+2) and it acts like one 4 ohm speaker in the box.
Look here to understand better: JL Wiring Tutorial
Basically it says:
1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 1 Ohms
What they are telling you to do, 6 ohm DVC in parallel, makes 3 ohm overall, which is too low for the amp. It will make it put out over the 460 watts. Probably more like 500 or 600 watts. That will most likely make it get hot faster, put the amp into protection, or burn it up.
Personally I think they might not have the DVC 2 ohm in stock and are just trying to make the sale.
150 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
230 watts x 2 at 2 ohms
460 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms
So to get the most power to a single 12" you want to use it bridged at 4 ohms. The only way to get a single JL W3 at 4 ohms is to get the DVC 2 ohm version and wire it in series inside the box. This way the coils add together (2+2) and it acts like one 4 ohm speaker in the box.
Look here to understand better: JL Wiring Tutorial
Basically it says:
1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Parallel
Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in parallel (+ to +, - to -) will result in the following impedances:
Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms
Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms
Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 1 Ohms
What they are telling you to do, 6 ohm DVC in parallel, makes 3 ohm overall, which is too low for the amp. It will make it put out over the 460 watts. Probably more like 500 or 600 watts. That will most likely make it get hot faster, put the amp into protection, or burn it up.
Personally I think they might not have the DVC 2 ohm in stock and are just trying to make the sale.
Are you going to the CarToys by the mall off of 20?
Just curious. I am down here in Arlington for work till the 31st. I went over to the mall last weekend for something to do. I didn't see the CarToys place till I was leaving or I would have gone in. Never been in one ....
Just curious. I am down here in Arlington for work till the 31st. I went over to the mall last weekend for something to do. I didn't see the CarToys place till I was leaving or I would have gone in. Never been in one ....
Yup, im buying that amp off of Ebay, iv heard good things about that amp!
yeah thats the Cartoys that i am going to..but i had to go pick up the subs at the Cartoys in Ft. Worth because they didn't have them in stock, but for the past 4 days i've been back to the Cartoys off of I20 around 3:00 pm. I'll probablyl go back again tomorrow to have them order that D2..and it'll take 10 days =/ i don't have that patience. So if i do run the D6 in parallel i would get less power and wouldn't do my amp any good? If that is true then i guess ill tell them to go ahead and order my sub. Thanks.
yeah thats the Cartoys that i am going to..but i had to go pick up the subs at the Cartoys in Ft. Worth because they didn't have them in stock, but for the past 4 days i've been back to the Cartoys off of I20 around 3:00 pm. I'll probablyl go back again tomorrow to have them order that D2..and it'll take 10 days =/ i don't have that patience. So if i do run the D6 in parallel i would get less power and wouldn't do my amp any good? If that is true then i guess ill tell them to go ahead and order my sub. Thanks.
Your best bet would be to wait for the D2. the D6 in parallel is a 3 ohm load, it might work at lower levels, but it might just overheat the amp as well. Don't worry, 10 days wait for hte correct woofer is better than the wrong one now and being dissappointed later.
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