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I salvaged a Clifford Arrow 5 from a friend's totalled Civic and I want to install into my girlfriend's Civic (this is her forum name, BTW...). Both were '01 LX coupes. It doesn't look too hard, but I had a few questions:

- on the back of the alarm unit, it lists all the wires that need to be spliced into. I've looked up the wiring diagram on this site, and I'm wondering:

1) where is

- the "(-) chassis ground"?

- the "(-) instant trigger"?

- the "Light Flash polarity"? (I'm assuming they're refering to the parking lights...)

- the "acc output A"?

- the "output when armed"? (is this referring to the horn trigger??)

2) there are 2 white wires, both are marked "light flash output" with no +/- in front. I'm pretty sure they hook up to the parking lights, but with no polarity markings, how can I tell which one goes to which?

- on the siren unit, there are 2 wires, red and black, which are fed back under the steering column. I know the red one connects to the wire marked "alarm output" on the alarm unit, but where does the black wire connect to?

- lastly, on the alarm unit, there are three thick black wires directly attached to the unit (not plugs). One of the wires was cut and electrical taped off by previous installer. I can only assume I won't need this one. Where do the other 2 attach to? (Looks to be power wires...)

Well, if you can help with any of the above questions, it'd be much appreciated. Thanks!!!

 
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rewriting....

 
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chassis ground is anywhere thats metal in the car. youll see various bolts all over the car with a bunch of wires in them to the frame. or you can make yoru own anywhere. as long as its not isolated metal.

- instant trigger is usually a triger to instantly make hte alarm go off. usually hooked up to the door pinswitch so that when someone opens the doors, the alarm goes off. I do believe our system is a negative pinswitch, id confirm that first before just splicing into it. the doors should be linked together under the dash, so that if you splice into either pinswitch, the alarm goes off.

light flash polarity *should* factor whether the light flash output wires are positive or negative. for specifics how to use it, youll need to find a maual, try cliffords site.

strange, it has accessory output for the A position, that to me sounds like more or less ignition. i have no idea why you would need that. it could also be an option, if your remote has one button that doesnt do anything, then its probably the output for that button on the remote. if that is the case, you could use it or trunk pop or remote start or something of that nature.

usually, the siren connects directly to the alarm, both red and black. however, if the black wire is short on this set, then its probably grounded. there is no black wire from the unit marked for siren? its probbaly ground.

ive never seen three black wires, especailly not thick, attatched to the brains of alarms, usually jsut one small one, thats the antenna. if there is no label for them, and they arent stripped back or anything, id assume they are antannas. the brain should only have one ground wire, and itll be marked chassis ground (-)

good luck, lemme know how many you fix

 
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Hey thanks for the quick response... You've confirmed a lot of my guesses and clarified a lot.

There is a wire on the alarm unit marked "door trigger" seperately from the "instant trigger" wire. Is that the same as the "door pin switch"? Do I need both?

I believe that you're correct about the acc output being an option for trunk release or remote start. That's one less wire to worry about!

I'll try to get some pics of the 3 mystery wires so you can see what I'm talking about. The antenna is a seperate wire attached by a plug, so I really have no clue what they're all about...

Anyways, thanks again! Hopefully everything will be in soon.

 
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i would assume that door trigger is for keyless entry, and not the pinswitch? does it pulse when you hit disarm? or can you ground it and fire the alarm off? thats the real test.....

 
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White Rabbit-

For the sake of being on the same page, here's a pic of the alarm unit with all ports and wires listed:



As you can see, it appears as if the door lock port would be for keyless entry. the wires are blue and green, seem to correspond with the wire colors for power lock and power unlock... also, according to the wiring diagram, there's no wire marked door pin, only door trigger. Could they be the same thing? The wiring diagram lists 3 seperate door triggers for driver, passenger, and rear. This seems to support the idea that it is the door pin switch you described.

here is the layout for the main wire cluster printed on the back of the alarm unit and what I suppose each means:

1 Black (-) Chassis Ground (as you explained, just attached to bolt or non-isolated metal)
2 Empty Not Used
3 Empty Not Used
4 Empty Not Used
5 Empty Not Used
6 Empty Not Used
7 Blue (-) Instant Trigger (trunk pin?)
8 Violet (+) Door Trigger (See above???)
9 Green (-) Door Trigger (See above???)
10 Red (+) 12V Power Input (Splice to 12V wire in ignition harness)
11 Brown (+) Siren Output (Splice to red siren wire)
12 White/Red Light Flash Polarity (Spliced to fuse, then ??? see below)
13 White Light Flash Output (Somehow splice into +/- Parking Lights wire?)
14 White Light Flash Output (Somehow splice into +/- Parking Lights wire?)
15 Black/White (-) Dome Light Output (Wiring Diagram says Dome Supervision comes on with unlock, so ignore?)
16 Red/White (-) Acc Output A (As discussed, maybe trunk release or remote start?)
17 Orange (-) Output When Armed (Spliced to Horn Trigger, which is also orange and -?)
18 Yellow (+) Ignition Input (Splice into Ignition Wire in ignition harness)



The wire marked "Light Flash Polarity is spliced to this fuse, but where the fuse goes, I have no idea...

Anyways, I hope this gives you a better idea of what I have to work with. Feel free to add/correct anything you see. You've already been a great help, and I really appreciate your quick responses! Thanks for putting up with my ignorance!

 
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Door Pin wire and Door Trigger wire is the same thing.(senses when the door is open). So make sure you use the Green (violet wire is not used) wire and connect it to the wire that show's ground when the door is open.

The instant trigger wire is for the trunk or hood or both. Our cars have a pin on the trunk so that the car senses when the trunk is open, but this is already tied in to the rest of the door pin circuit so dont worry about that pin anymore. If you want more protection add a pin under the hood and connect this wire to it so that the alarm will go off if the hood is opened.

Your mystery black wires are: they are used for your starter cut off (car cant be started when the alarm is set off) Cut the starter wire in your car, now you have to choose if you want a normaly open circuit (the starter is always interrupted and the car will not start unless the ignition is turned on) or a normaly closed circuit (the starter is only interupted when the alarm is set off). After you decide your gonna have to find a manual for the correct wire to use for the circuit you decide to use or "Trial and error" connect two of them together and see if it works the way you want if not try another combination and so on until you find the one you want. I wont do any harm.

Your White/Red wire is the headlight polarity. This wire has to be connected to + positive 12V because our headlight circuit is a 12V positive circuit. If it was ground then you would connect this wire to ground.

Dome light supervision you dont have to use since the domelight turns on and off when the doors are locked and unlocked from factory.

Red/White is used for a remote start or trunk release.

I installed Clifford alarms for over 8 years so Im very familiar with them hope my info helps.

 
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Hey alpine:

Thanks man! That's great info. I think I've almost got it all pieced together in my head. Just wanted to confirm a few last things:

- Siren: Only red wire is used, Black wire to ground, right?

- Door triggers: I splice to both drivers and passenger's triggers, right?

- Door Lock Port: Spliced to power lock/power unlock for keyless entry, correct?

- Light Polarity Wire: So the end coming from the fuse must splice into + 12v? Where is the best place to do it?

- the white Light Flash Output wires: Used at all? Splices to parking lights? Headlights? What polarity?

- Orange Output When Armed wire: Splices to horn trigger, right?

I think I have pretty much everything figured out except for the Light Flash Polarity and Output wires. If I could just get confirmation to the above, I think I'd be ready to go!! Thanks for all your help!

 
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Siren- Correct the Black goes to ground and red to the alarm.

Door Trigger- you only have to connect to one of the doors, but make sure that the one you do connect to will see both doors open.

Door Locks- You have correct

Light Polarity- You can connect this wire to the same place your gonna get the power for the alarm. Connect them together.

White Wire- That goes to the parking light wire in the car (Make sure it's the positive side)

Orange- This wire sends a ground when the alarm is armed. Dont connect this to your horn because as soon as the alarm is armed your horns gonna go off. This wire is usually used for window modules so that when the alarm is armed the windows roll up.

 
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Cool! Thanks to both of you guys for the fast info! I'll post pics and such when it's all installed. Wish me luck!

 
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Good luck, it's not difficult at all just take your time and make sure to chech every connection and make sure you connect to the correct wires.

 
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Ok, I've got everything hooked up and working except for the parking lights. According to the wiring diagram, the (+) parking lights wire should be a red/black wire on the back of the fuse box.

Well, I looked back there, and there were FOUR red/black wires. Two next to each other on the same plug at the very top row of plugs, and 1 each in the middle and right hand plugs one row down. Which one(s) do I connect to?

I guess it's no big deal, since everything else is working, but I figure since I've already come so far, why not finish it off...

 
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Ok, so I went ahead and just connected the light flash output wire to one of the two red/black wires sharing the same plug. I figured it was my best bet and it worked!

 
Rep Power: 313

Good to hear you got it working, for the next time check it with a meter (safest way) or atleast a test light (next best thing) cause you can cause damage to a circuit if you grab the wrong wire. But who cares now it's working.

 
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Heh, yeah I know I got impatient...

One more thing, I have yet to install the starter kill, and I don't know if I will, but just to be sure I got it right:

I cut the starter wire, and connect each end to one of the black wires going to the alarm, right?