Tracecross30

So now that I dropped in this used burned engine from a different car but same as my D17A2 engine. I realized that I have overheating and so I assumed it was more coolant needed so bled the system and ad more coolant as it was low. I saw coolant coming from the back of the engine and I double check and i found the clamp wasn’t on and hose for the water pump pipe so I fixed it and everything seems fine until now I took it for 50 miles drive and just as I left off the highway on my way back after I cross this train line close to home I have the overheating issues again. I opened the hood and saw coolant everywhere on the hoses, wires, on the transmission and the valve cover. I turned on the car to see if it will spray coolant while the engine running but there was non. I then tried to open the radiator cap and saw coolant spraying from the coolant overflow tank like crazy. The tank wasn’t full so why is it full now? I checked to make sure that the fans are working and they were coming on and off when I put in this engine.

What you guys think? Could it be the thermostat or the head need gasket.?

Wankenstein

Most likely a blown head gasket. Do a "block test" on it as a start. Report back with the results please. Tester is free rental at parts store and test fluid is $10.

Tracecross30

I have never heard of block test before anyway. I replaced the thermostat but I still seeing the coolant level rising in overflow tank. But it haven’t start to overheating yet because I didn’t take a long drive.

FRSam

Because your head gasket has blown.

*get a new car* *get a new car* *get a new car*

Sorry, my parrot was acting up

Tracecross30

when you buy one and send me man. I buy what i can afford right now.

FRSam

From the sounds of it, you’ve dumped more into that than it would cost just to get another car.

Colin42

1000% this

Tracecross30

Pretty sure I haven’t put $3500 in it apart from buying it. Hey, things happened. Do what you can until you can do better.
appreciate your informations.

FRSam

Pretty sure you can get a running and driving car for a hell of a lot less than $3500. Try $1000-$1500. All my cars pre-TSX come to less than $3500 USD combined, and they all worked.

Where are you located? I'm sure I can find something on a classifieds site

Tracecross30

bro, the car is working fine. Is just a overheating issue and you guys already mentioned the same thing i was thinking. Is just the engine i got is the problem. I was on the looking out for this after i put this engine in anyway.i will just put on my head one of these weekend.

FRSam

Are you not seeing the pattern here?

Tracecross30

you talking about getting car for lot less than $3500 and I said my car is fine, is just that the engine I put in was a burn engine and I was on the lookout for something like this . So what pattern are you talking about?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Alright kids. Back on topic

BrotatoChip

As others have said it's almost certainly a head gasket. Do the tests below.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html

Wankenstein

OP, do you intend to bring the head you will be using to a machine shop?

Tracecross30

Certainly not going to spend almost $50 on test kit and go back and spend another $50 on head gasket.
I just went ahead and replaced the head gasket and switched my other head from the engine I took out. It seem to be fine now.

one other question. It’s a must that a valve adjustment need to be done since I switched part from both heads, I know how to do the adjustment but I might not getting the technique of how it should feel between the feeler gauge and valve?

what’s your answer to this?

FRSam

This level of cheapness is why you keep having problems.

There are two guides you stick the feeler gauges between.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

valves adjustment are contained within the head
if it was good, no need to do again

Tracecross30

How cheapness comes into this? Its more of spending money wisely. Why it make sense to buy head gasket test kit when the signs are there clearly telling me that you have a head gasket failure? Someone on here even tells me its a head gasket problem.
another guy even send me a link braking things down and explained all the signs of head gasket failures.
i state that i know how to do a valve adjustments because i did it several times but its just the right amount of drag that they recommend, that i might not getting.
i know i should put the feeler gauge between the top of the valve and bottom of the screw.

FRSam

No one told you to buy a test kit. Take your cylinder head to a machine shop so they can machine it so it’s flat. Otherwise, you’re just going to have the same problems. If that comes at the cost of another head gasket, so be it. You shouldn’t have rushed into it so quickly

Tracecross30

Whatever I did make sense. I used the head from my other engine. One guy on here told me to buy block test and fluid and let him know the results later.

FRSam

Your “good” cylinder head will mostly likely still require resurfacing.

He told you to RENT the tester, not BUY. Huge difference. All-in with fluid is maybe $10.

Isn’t that the cylinder head where the valves kept coming out of adjustment?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

calm down, both

Tracecross30

ok, well. I doubt that they rent that in my area.
It’s the cylinder head but I use the parts from the head that I got from the engine I dropped in. This engine I dropped in doesn’t look like any valve adjustment done to it ever.

BrotatoChip

If you have concerns about valve adjustment here's a decent video.

Tracecross30

I watch this video and others before. Watching the video doesn’t make anyone get the feel of how tight the feel should be when pulling out the feeler gauge but I appreciate the video though.
I just Gonna do it until I get it right.
or I might just have to get the right valve adjustment tool

BrotatoChip

A wrench and a flathead screwdriver have always worked well for me. I understand what you're saying though.

In the video he describes how it should feel. Tighten it until you start feeling resistance on the feeler gauge then stop. If you struggle to remove the feeler gauge or it leaves marks or gouges the gauge then it's too tight. If you're worried it's too loose take the gauge at the limit and try to fit it. 0.011" is the max for the exhaust, if it fits at all it should be very tight.

Tracecross30

Ok, the specs I think it should be
0.007-0.009 intake
0.009-0.0011 Exhaust ​​​​​

i used 0.007 for the intake and
0.009 for the Exhaust side.

ok so, I adjusted the valve lash @
0.007 intake
0.009 exhaust
I used the 0.008 to see if it could go under the intake after I’m done with each intake valve and it could not go under. I did the same for the intake with the 0.0010and it couldn’t go under either. I’m have this vibrating from the engine still.
I might need to use
0.008 for intake and 0.0010 for exhaust and see if that makes it smoother.
I’m having checking engine light for Pcv valve air leakage but I’m not worrying about that because I know it’s air in the coolant because I worked on the head the other day. I will bleed the system again for the 3rd time to try get the air out.
Any thoughts on the valve clearance? I might using the correct specks but I don’t like the vibration.

Wankenstein

OP.. there's a carpenter's old rule of thumb that states measure twice and cut once (woodwork). Same applies for automotive repair but translated as do the job right the first time. Don't assume whichever cylinder head you are using is flat within specs.
Bring it to a machinist to inspect for flatness, cracks and valves seating/compression loss. Also, use a Honda Genuine head gasket only. People here are providing you with their knowledge and experience and you'd be well advised to listen/read carefully.

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