DA9_GSR

Hey all,

I basically want to blog about what I've found doing my K20A EM2 swap. I've been following the "XproductionZ" website and found some information missing. I'm really picky about details and want everything to fit almost OEM and look like the powertrain belongs in the engine bay. I don't want wires and cables hanging around everywhere. It's going to be clean and tidy. I'll start with the list of parts we used:

From EP3

- subframe
- L and R axles (intermediate shaft came with K20A swap)
- radiator (so the rad cap opening matches with the EM2 upper grille)

From RSX

- shift cables (came with swap)
- throttle cable (mounted exactly the same as OEM, just a little longer)
- P/S pressure and return lines with mouting bracket and resevoir
- clutch lines (from clutch master to slave at transmission)
- heater core hoses (from water valve to engine and heater core to engine)
- new serpentine belt (easier to change with motor out)

From Dealer

- 1 X engine oil filter
- 2 X 4L bottles of Honda coolant
- 3 X Honda powersteering oil
- 4 X 1L bottles of Honda MTF
- 1 X cooling system thermo switch (37760-P00-003)

From Importer

- 1 X JDM DC5 K20A powertrain swap
- 1 X battery relocation kit (going in the trunk)


So, "XproductionZ" has a great start off point. He lists pretty much everything needed. Here's a few things he forgot to mention:

1. POWERSTEERING PULLEY HITS THE HOOD

If you're doing a DC5 K20A swap with powersteering, get ready to have to modify/cut the hood "skeleton" where the P/S pulley touches. We used the Hasport ESK3 mounts and the P/S pulley still hits. We just notched the "skeleton" in a close to perfect rectangle so the pulley doesn't hit the hood. I'll post pics of what we did. Without modifying, YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO FULLY CLOSE THE HOOD!

2. EXHAUST MODIFICATION NEEDED

We had a Magnaflow EM2 catback exhaust system (54mm inside diameter). So, we bought an ITR center pipe (54mm outside diameter) and cut the front portion of the pipe off to have the flange to bolt onto the RSX-S cat. We bolted the front of the ITR center pipe to the cat. Then we marked where the Magnaflow EM2 catback lined up with the cut section of the ITR pipe and cut it with a three inch overlap so it can slide over and get clamped so we could drive to a muffler shop to get it welded.

3. C101 CONNECTOR REWIRING

There's some wires in the C101 connector that you can't repin due to the size of the wires. You'll need to cut and solder.

4. RAD THERMO SWITCH INSTALLATION AND WIRING

There's no mention of the rad thermo switch in the DIY. You need the thermo switch in order to properly run the rad fan. Unless you like overheating or having a fan run all the time. You'll need to buy a thermo switch and connector and wire it in for proper operation.

5. EP3 RAD FAN ON EP3 RAD DOESN'T CLEAR EM2 RAD SUPPORT

The xproductionz DIY mentions using the EP3 rad and EP3 rad fan. So, we bought both. Come to find out it doesn't clear the vertical brace in the EM2 rad support. So anyone doing this swap should buy a slim fan or get ready to cut out the vertical support.

6. FRONT BUMPER LOWER SPLASH SHIELD MODIFICATION

You need to cut some of the front bumper lower splash shield to clear the EP3 subframe and fit properly. Get you utility knives ready. Minor mod. Easy to do.

That's it for now.

7. EM2 HOOD PROP HITS P/S PULLEY

We found that the hood prop hits the P/S pulley. I originally wanted to shorten the rod but I couldn't get the white fitting off the end. So, we're installing hood shocks.

Feel free to add or comment.
PLEASE KEEP IT CLEAN AND RESPECTFUL.
Cheers!

Here's some pictures!

MindBomber

If this documents the entire k-swap process I will likely stick it, at the minimum I'll add it to the k-swap fact.

Great job

DA9_GSR

The "XproductionZ" website is VERY informative. He just forgot to mention a few things, which we ran into while doing the swap. I thought it would be useful information to know. It's not like you guys didn't know about the hood thing. I just want people from this point on to have a "complete" list of things to do and get while doing this swap.

Shift-E

Is this Eric's EM2? You have a blue one as a DD, right?

I'm so Jelly, lol. Can't wait to see it in person at some meets this summer!

SlimRisk

Nice job I wanna get working on my k swap. just so sick of my car being that slow. Keep us updated

DA9_GSR

This is Eric's EM2. I do have a 2003 LX EBP automatic as a DD. Keeps the salt off my 2003 NHBP EP3.

You can see it next week when it's done.

DA9_GSR

Thanks dude.

The swap is actually pretty simple. I would recommend getting all the extra parts that "XproductionZ" lists on his site first. Then save up some money and get the swap. Hardest part about everything was getting an engine crane. Aside from that the RF axle gave us a run for our money. It didn't want to come out of the RF hub. I had to bring the entire knuckle assembly with the stubborn axle to my work and use some heat and serious air hammers to get it out.

Roxie

Curious how you got your swap: from a donor, or just bought the swap itself?

Never mind... I saw that answer hahaha.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

very nice
I'd like to k-swap mine, but I'm broke as fuu.. lol.. Seeing this makes me wanna k-swap even more though...

DA9_GSR

Well, here's an update:

We got the K20A in the car. Our swap didn't come with the rear engine bracket that bolts up to the transmission and slides into the rear mount.

#6 in this picture



We tried using the EM2 one, but it's 2 inches too far to the passenger side of the car and won't bolt up. So, it's off to the salvage yards to find a bracket.

Also, we're working on 2001 Civic DX manual transmission and I come to find out that the fitting in the clutch master cylinder has larger threads than the RSX clutch line.

EM2 clutch master cylinder fitting is 1/4" brake line fitting
DC5 clutch master cylinder fitting is 3/16" brake line fitting

Clutch line from the RSX is #15 in this picture.
Master cylinder fitting is #10 in this picture.

EŽik

Yeah, talk about feeling beat last night at 12:30 in the morning. Hopefully we can get those parts today, and continue where we left off. Also, for those who do the swap, the engine site like 1 inch from the passenger side. It's a tight fit. I actually noticed just how much bigger then K20 is than the D17. We had to watch for fingers, and wires/hoses while playing drop, twist, lift, drop lol (with the hoist)

So hopefully today we can continue where we left off.

DA9_GSR

We're going to "button up" everything else.

EŽik

Well, it seems that we just couldn't get a break yesterday. We ran into issues with pretty much everything we attempted. Some of there are easily remedied, but others, we are at the mercy of parts arriving.

We did get the engine into the car.



Tight fit for sure. And we will need to cut out the hood to fit that PS pulley. Today we plan on hooking up the exhaust, re-installing axles, hubs, and filling up the transmission fluid, running the battery relocate cables, and if time permits, hook up more stuff in the engine bay.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

FunWoW

Roxie

I like it

DA9_GSR

Update

So, engine is in! We've got the fuel and vapour lines installed, the shift cables installed, high and low powersteering pressure lines installed, exhaust manifold and catalytic installed, EM2 catback removed, both axles installed and RF steering knuckle installed.

Here's the problems we ran into:

- LF axle shaft splines won't slide into LF hub
- need to rewire for O2 sensors
- need to extend DC5R midpipe to fit EM2 chassis
- need muffler that has proper flange to work with DC5R midpipe
- need clutch MC fitting to be able to attach DC5 clutch lines

Here's the things left to do:

- install clutch MC fitting to complete clutch line install and bleed system
- install brake booster vacuum hose
- install battery relocation kit and charge harness fuse wires
- perform 02 sensor harness mod
- install ECU connectors
- extend / modify DC5R midpipe and install muffler
- install radiator with fan and rad hoses
- fill cooling system and bleed
- install LF axle into LF hub
- fill drain and fill manual transmission oil
- change engine oil and filter
- tighten all p/s lines and fill powersteering oil
- modify hood (if needed) to clear DC5R powersteering pulley
- START IT UP!!!! .

Keep you all posted

DA9_GSR

Shift-E

His car is gonna kick so much *** when its done haha. Are you thinking of swapping your EM2 also, Ryan? Or are you keeping that one stock?

DA9_GSR

My DD EM2 is staying stock. My GF would kill me if I did anything like a swap to it.

krudmuphin

iTrader: (1)

This is awesome. It takes true dedication... and lots of cash... to do a project like this and I always envy the people who get their hands dirty with this kind of work. The end result is always so fascinating. Looks great so far

Roxie

The fruits of the labour of love. They're beautiful.

I'm super jealous.

cmiller_01ex

i have a question, do you really need to swap radiators? because im still stuck in between swapping to a k or turbo d. and right now i need a new radiator but dont want to buy 2

SlimRisk

I think that the RSX and the civic have a radiator holes on opposite sides

EŽik

If your doing a K swap, you can't keep the D series rad. I got an EP3 rad with fan.

cmiller_01ex

ok cool now i have another question, i have the chance to get a k20 real cheap, and a k24 tranny real cheap, will they work together?

SlimRisk

I heard they have the same bolt patterns, but the only difference is a few sensors in different places and the mounting point. Should work easily

EŽik

What I would be worried about is the letter K and cheap in the same sentence. You pay for what you get. I paid more for a quality engine, I won't have to worry about it in the long run.

But both K20 and K24 tranny should work fine.

cmiller_01ex

its only cheap cause the guy sellin it doesnt know what he has, im goin to look over it and both are gettin rebuilt so it wont end up being cheap, but i dont want to spend 6k to have a jdm in it, and its cheap cause its the k20a3 as well

Aetoc

iTrader: (1)

Well there's a big difference in performance between the k20a k20a2 and the a3, so that's probably a big reason it's so cheap.

cmiller_01ex

yea but the difference is all in the head, and can you shy away from a full motor for 90 and a 5speed trans for 150?lol didnt think so. so now even if i swap the heads for an a2 or even port and polish this one to flow better, it would still cost less than the jdm swap with the same 5speed trans all im missing is the ecu and that isnt that bad around here.