Rep Power: 315

As some of you know I'm in the process of starting my k20a swap. Only reason I'm doing this instead of selling the car and buying a new one, is the sentimental value. I can't see myself getting rid of my civic, and I certainly cannot see myself with more car payments. My wife and I are financing the new Odyssey next year, and I don't want to have 2 car payments. That being said, I know right out that this is not going to be a cheap process, and I have budgeted 8k for the swap. This includes parts, and labour. However, there are ways to save yourself a lot of money. Instead of buying new, look for part outs on RSX's (which is what I have done) I have an EP3 subframe on it's way from a local salvage yard, and I will be picking up a new EP3 rad, fan and hoses in a couple weeks. So far, I have
- shifter cables from a type-S
- header and downpipe
- throttle cable
- clutch lines from master to slave cylinder
- high pressure power steering hose
- power steering return line

All this I got shipped to Ogdensburg NY UPS store for $200 US. I was quoted from local Acura dealerships $700 CAD and I said F U

Seeing as I don't have AC, I won't need to spend the extra money on AC parts, so I will be saving a lot there.

I will need to switch out the exhaust though, and I'm drawing a blank as to what I would like to run? Would you guys recommend a custom 2 1/4" exhaust? Or are there applications out there that will fit the EM2's?

 
Rep Power: 182

So the ep3 tranny will be a direct bolt on, no modification required n stuff? I know some of the questions I ask are not the brightest, but then again, this swap/ interchangeable parts stuff it's not a walk in the park either. ZFor me at least

 
Rep Power: 194

So I wanna pick up a k24 block and internals and then swap on a k20 head later. just wondering does it matter what k24 block and internals i get? or are they all the same?

 
Rep Power: 285

That's a difficult question, sort of.

I would suggest buying the cheapest k24 bare block you can get, then rebuilding it with 06+ tsx pistons and rods if you plan on staying n/a.

 
Rep Power: 194

Looks like the bore of the K24s are 87 with a stroke of 99. K20s are stayin at a constant 86 for both. K23 is outta the question because someone from k20.org said the only tranny that bolts up is the k23 and no one makes mounts for it. It would also be really easy if I could get a k24 block and mount a k23 head with the whole turbo set up. i found a k24 engine from a yard nearby and they wanted $500 for it with 100,000. found another k engine but from an 03 rsx with only 55,000 miles for $489

 
Rep Power: 199

The one from the RSX would be a K20A2. Very popular from what I hear, and sought after more then the A3 found in the SI.

 
Rep Power: 194

Once I get kpro, buying that engine will be the next step

 
Rep Power: 285

Yes, k23 is completely out of the question, but the important thing is that a k23 equivalent is not out of the question. The forged crank, which is two pounds lighter than any other crank swaps into any k24 block, as well as all the internals fit perfectly into any k24 block. Slap a k20a2 or k20a head onto it with k20z1 cams and you could make 500whp.

 
Rep Power: 196

ok ive skimmed over most of this and i have been thinkin about what i want to do. i have a guy that has a k24 block head valve cover pistons rods crank and some other small ends he wants 225 for it. im buying it unless ya'll see reason for me not to. i was also thinking if the rsx subframe bolts to our cars, is the only difference the mounting locations? because i and a few buddys are used to chopping up frames in our mini's so it wouldnt be a problem to customize the one in my car now. then the other question is, is the axles, i read that you can use the ones we have now, so does that mean that they will fit no mods needed? because i am def making custom mounts, prob customizing the subframe and im gettin majority of the motor for 225, im thinking that if i keep finding deals like these i'll have my car k swaped for under 2 grand.

 
Rep Power: 196

one more question will the k20a4 trans from a honda accord fit the k24?

 
Rep Power: 194

any k24 tranny will fit any k24 engine

 
Rep Power: 285

I haven't actually looked at an RSX subframe next to a EM2 one, but they are pretty similar. Might be worthwhile attempting to modify one, depends how much work it would be. They go for $100-150 dollars used usually.

Mounts you could definitely get away with not using the overpriced hasport or innovative ones, I've seen a few people modify stock DC5 ones for k-swaps now.

Our axles you can't use. I think the point of confusion comes with the spline. Our axles will not spline to a k-series transmission, but base certain k-series axles will spline to our hubs so you can avoid buying new wheels and going five lug.

It's definitely possible to k-swap for under $2500, I can see $2000 being doable if you're really creative and are patient with finding deals.

 
Rep Power: 196

if i jump on eveerything i can get the motor for 225 the trans for 150 and the rest i'll have to find. but thats already all the main parts for under 500

 
Rep Power: 194

Yeah ive been looking a little. bad thing is, there are only a couple junk yards near me and neither of them have an rsx or 02-05 si. huge setback. one yard does have a k24 from an 05 accord. $500 with 100,000 miles and idk if that includes the cost to pull the engine. thoughts?

 
Rep Power: 172

I don't know how that salvage yard works, but I would assume that $500 is for the engine assembly only. It'll probably be more for the transmission. I know that the prices they give out here is "out of the car and ready for pickup". Unless you need it shipped they'll charge a little more. Still, $500 is a pretty good deal.

 
Rep Power: 196

since i was dumb and asked questions in the wrong spot i figured id fix my mistakes and start asking here agian, now, every one says the a3 is not the desierable engine, to my understanding its because the a2 head flows the best correct? now are the blocks the same? and if i can get the a3 head machined it would be the same if not better than the a2 right? because the way its looking i can get the motor block and head for 90 bucks, machine work on the head for about 200 so that would set me at 290 for the engine it has a few other problems, jumped timing im going to check it out to make sure the crank is ok, if it is then i'll be golden correct?

 
Rep Power: 285

No, everything is different to an extent.

Head - cannot be made equal to an a/a2/z1/z3 head, because aside from flow the system VTEC is designed differently.

Bottom end - low compression, weaker rods, no oil cooling, different crank.

An a3 isn't a bad starting point, the original xproductions DIY was initially completed with one. You just need to build the a3 to be equal to an a2 or better. An a2 crank is like $150 or you can use an s2k crank with very minimal modification, forged pistons and rods would be another $800, then an a2 or z1 head for $500.

 
Rep Power: 194

Whatever's better than a d17 is what I say. As long I can put that cool "DOHC VTEC" sticker on my car, I'll be one happy boy

 
Rep Power: 196

oh ok. and when you say minimal mods what does that consist of?lol talking about the cranks, lower compression is also a good thing if i plan on boosting right? so now i just need to see about gettin that a2 head. or is there an even better option than that since i am going to replace the head?

 
Rep Power: 313

Keep your eyes open here for a K20A2 head:

http://www.k20a.org/forum/

 
Rep Power: 285

k20a or k20z1 would be the BEST heads, but the castings are identical, the difference is in the cams. I see good condition heads selling for $500-800 on k20a frequently, a brand new head is only $1200.

Lower compression is good if you're planning on boosting, supercharging or laying down heavy nitrous. Higher compression is good if you want to run aggressive N/A cams. The benefit of forged rods and pistons in an a3 block is they don't need oil cooling.

I should find a picture of the modification needed to build a 10k plus revving k24 or k20 stroker with an s2k crank, I could do it with a die grinder in under a minute, so simple.

 
Rep Power: 196

oh now you def got me interested in the s2k crank. i didnt realize it was a stroker set up. and if the difference is just in the cams if i swap in aftermarket cams it will have the same hp as it would in an a2 or the other ones? or is the flow different in the other heads, im gettin this motor next friday either way.

 
Rep Power: 196

when i said the same hp as the a2 i ment that if i take an a2 head and an a3 head and place the same cams and valves in both will they have simmilar flow or will the a2 still be the better head?

 
Rep Power: 285

A3 will still be a better, the casting and design is drastically inferior.

 
Rep Power: 172

Here's what we've used to date:

- K20 swap (engine, trans, rear mount bracket, engine harness, charge harness and ECU)
- Hasport ESK3 engine mounts (fits perfect - no modifications needed)
- EP3 subframe (fits perfect - no modifications needed)
- EP3 axles
- EP3 radiator (fits perfect and rad cap matches EM2 opening)
- EP3 aftermarket slim fan (OEM EP3 one won't fit, it hits the rad support)
- EP3 upper rad hose (fits perfect - no modifications needed)
- EP3 lower rad hose (fits perfect - no modifications needed)
- 98-03 Honda Accord coolant reservoir and hose (fits perfectly in void in LF engine bay)
- RSX shift cables (fit perfect - no modifications needed)
- RSX throttle cable (fits well, just needs adjusting)
- RSX p/s pressure line (needed bending and modifying)
- RSX p/s return line (needed bending and modifying)
- RSX clutch lines from master to slave (clutch hose bracket doesn't mount onto EM2 body)
- EP3 clutch master cylinder fitting (46941-S5A-003)
- EP3 clutch master cylinder fitting gasket (46943-S5A-003)
- EP3 clutch master cylinder fitting snap ring (46942-S5A-003)
- EM2 Magnaflow catback (front of midpipe modified and had DC5 flange to bolt onto DC5 cat)
- custom 02 sensors harness (primary and secondary with primary relay) - I'm gonna make a DIY
- immobilizer ECU relay bypass (K20A needs this to start)- I'm gonna make a DIY
- Moroso battery relocation kit (to RR trunk area)

 
Rep Power: 196

well i got my k20 today, needs some work, and a few parts but its a head and complete block so for 100 cant complain. the first thing that i noticed was that the rollers on the rockers on one side they are all missing and it looks like the motor ran for a minute like that, what could cause them to fall out?

 
Rep Power: 285

No idea what could cause them to fall out, they'd need to be removed...

It's an A3 right?

I'd just reassemble the head and sell it to some chump with a blown head gasket, that's exactly what I did when I bought my $100 k20a3.

 
Rep Power: 196

lol sounds like a plan, what should i sell it for? 150? lol

 
Rep Power: 196

if i swap it to the k20a2 head can i use the metal intake with the k20a3's throttle body? and is this just a regular bolt up and go kinda swap or do i need to change more than just the head?

 
Rep Power: 196

Woo finally joining the potential k-swap club and gonna revive this thread in the process. I skimmed some of the thread (but not all of it) so if I miss anything forgive me. Right now I'm planning the super budget k-swap... I think I'm going to go for the Accord/CRV/Element k24 with an Accord 5 speed.

I figure engine and trans ~$700 if I wait around and pick up the other swap parts in the process.

Is there anybody that has done the Accord k24/5 speed in an EM2? Or is it all pretty much k20s?

I figure the Accord swap will cost about the same as a good turbo setup, but have the reliability of a commuter car and with kpro and bolt ons I have potential for much more than the stock 160 hp.

And god anything is going to be better than the stupid D. (Even if I am winning my autocross class with it haha)

Anyway, let me know what you guys think!