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Im planning on replacing my head gasket soon on my d17a2.
however, i want to replace my intake manifold since i have to take out the head. Now I havent done anything to my internals and i want to get the turbo crower cams since i will be working with the head.


Now if i install the turbo cam and the y8 mani do i have to tune the car again?? and do i need to get a adjustable cam gears? thank you

 
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Yes you'll need to tune and no you won't need a cam gear unless you're going to use kpro (but thats another convo). Make sure you also purchase the valve springs and retainers.

 
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Do I really need to get the valve springs and retainers even tho it doesnt say i need to. i know that for stage 3 & 4 cams you need to replace the valve springs and reta.

if i just do the head gasket which i dont which one is the best i have been looking and i have seen some but no much info on those.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Allis-Chalmers-W...QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/COMET...QQcmdZViewItem

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...386288k1021112

 
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Sorry I just notice that I do need the Valve Sp & Reta.. I just call honda and they have a heat gasket for $39.99 is that a good one? thanks..

 
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oem head gasket is perfect one of the best out there you need the valve springs and retainers due to the size of the lobes and how much it is squeezed or pushed down also the cam continues to make power above the stock redline which is another reason to change out the springs they can handle higher rpms easyier

 
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also the d16 y8 mani is not a direct bolt on to the d17 motor there is a lot of modification that needs to be done mainly the mounting plate and the throttle body

 
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Fyi before turboing a Non oem turbo car you should look into doing alot of other things before considering doing this. Head gasket, Studs, fuel pressure reg., your entire fuel system, ECU tuning or piggy/stand alone, gauges to monitor you engine and what it's doing. Jumping into turbo charging isn't about that leap of faith, it requires alot of planning and time. although I'm more then likely going to get alot of crap for posting this, turbocharging is about getting SAFE power. If you love your care then take the time to do it right and research what your getting into. More on that if you getting a "turbo cam" tuning will be required.

 
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the stage 2 turbo cam does not require that much tuning unless you really want to pull some power out of it you can run it on a stock map but running a turbo is a different story k-pro is recommended.

 
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well I Guess i didnt provide a lot of info but I turbocharge the car about two years ago. Im running the t3/t4, tial BOV, Aem Piggy, and 550cc rc injectors, gauges and fuel regulator even tho you cant really set a fuel pressure on 7th gen. however, my questions is, can i just upgrade the cams w/out tuning the car? Last time i tune my car was last year the thing about tuning my car is that my tuner guy is back in orlando fl and im in South Carolina so thats why everytime i have to tune the car i think about the trip. However, i think im just going to do the head gasket this weekend since i need like $1000 to get the cams and valve sp and tuning.. I call Honda and they have a HG for like $39 and advance has a fel-pro for $37. so i dont know what to get...

thanks guys for the reply..

 
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seriously.. 2 bucks.. get the oem honda gasket. yes you will need more tuning. no you can't straight bolt on a y8 intake mani.

 
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mmmmm I agree with the tuning part, your going to have to get it. It's going to Change your VE in everyway and you EMS is not really going to know with the change in air delivery. Also one last question.... Whats so special about the OEM head gasket? Why wouldn't you want to get an HKS gasket? Or is it some thing you guys do as a safety issue?? Blow head gasket rather then motor?

 
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OEM gasket is the best gasket on the market for honda's they make one damm good head gasket!!! their is no point to waste extra money on some supposed amazing great after market head gasket. when the honda one will out last it.

honestly the only reason you would go with an aftermarket gasket like say cometic(i'm sure i spelled that wrong) is if you are bored out beyond what the oem gasket can handle like say 76 mm

btw you can adjust the fuel pressure you need to do a return set up then most people set it up to run 1lbs of extra pressure for every psi

 
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Thanks for filling me in. I know turbos more then I know Honda motors. I like 7th gen section because my wife has one so i'd kind of a place for me to go to learn more about her civic. Anything else about this car that I should know? I love to learn so fill me in!

 
Rep Power: 275

there are lots of little quirks about this car
like it will fight every engine management except a standalone ie. K-pro
7 psi or higher boost you need ARP head studs or you will blow the gasket
valve springs, retainers, rod bolts, flywheel, and clutch are about the only things that transfer over from the d15 and d16.
honda fit lsd fits the trans, and the trans resembles a k series more than it does a d-series just spin the other direction

there is lots of things if you have questions then search and if you can not still find answers then ask

oh and check the date of the thread before posting if you bring up a 6 year old thread your going to get flamed

 
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7 psi or higher boost you need ARP head studs or you will blow the gasket

valve springs, retainers, rod bolts, flywheel, and clutch are about the only things that transfer over from the d15 and d16.

I Have a D16a6 engine at my garage with tranny I bought the clutch I installed but i only use it for two months. can i swap it to my d17 tranny??

whats ARP?

thanks a lot guys... i will post my car soon...

 
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yes you can use that clutch, ARP is a company that makes aftermarket head studs.

 
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+1 ARP makes great things

 
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Cool... thanks for the info i will do that..

 
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I see were are having fun with RED AND LARGE LETTERS LOL

oh and sometimes if you are not tuned good enough the head gaskets have been known to blow at 6 psi basicly if youa re turbo you should be running them they are only like $95 from summit

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-208-4301/

 
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Man I am tired of hearing about kpro. Yes it is the **** but c'mon dude not everybody could afford it.

An aem fic and emanage is just fine but if you wanna push 15psi and up then kpro.

 
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No F/iC is not fine. It has problems. From the accounts I've heard, my success with it is some of the best of anyone and it sucks. Trying to beat it into submission is very difficult. Emanage isn't even worth mentioning.. it's a box o' junk. You can't push anywhere near 15 psi with F/iC. The stock MAP sensor limits you to 11 psi if you are lucky and 9 in most cases. Beyond that the stock ECU makes the car untunable because the MAP sensor flips out. I don't push K-pro, I run AEM EMS, but a standalone engine management system is required IMHO. You have all these go fast parts and spend thousands on a turbo and manifold, IC, bov etc. etc. and then cheap out on the management. That's like taking the body of lance armstrong and controlling it with the brain of a retard.

 
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lol!!!!

 
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I'm not bashing kpro. I run it on my rsx and em2. I'm just saying for low boost apps and low budget builds you can run a piggyback with a GOOD tune.

If you got the money and don't want headaches that come with the piggybacks. Then get a standalone.

Like I said, every forced induction thread always pops up kpro this kpro that.

 
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baron is absolutely right if you really want your car to drive straight get k-pro it is trully the only way. It will fight you every step of the way with piggy backs until it just blows up. people say that k-pro is expensive really once you get it and actually use it on your car you will see that the price is justified. k-pro is not a system that you need to be running if you are running a higher levels of boost it is a system that you need to be running if you are running boost period no matter what the levels are.

yeah the cost of looks painfull at first but ask anyone that is using it on a d17 and they will tell get it. the reason I say that it is not expensive is mostly due to the fact if you get it you will save so much money on the fact that you will not break any were near as many parts and your car will be so much more reliable that it will cost tons less on routine maintenance.

big problem with the d17 crowd is they do not want to spend the money on it, and I swear it is like pulling teeth to get most people running boost to get one but when they do it is like some one totaly flipped the world upside down in a good way it is just that good.

now the AEM EMS fulll standalone is good to since it is a standalone but k-pro is extremely user friendly which is one reason it is preferred plus it uses a honda ecu

 
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there is a reason for that it is just that much better even for low boost setups.

I have worked on everything from tiny little turbo builds pushing maybe 5 psi to the record holding 489hp andyman97 car I have seen it all with boost and I have done it all with N/A I don't even have my turbo on my car yet but I have ran k-pro longer then most people and have more experience with it then most and have seen what all the piggy backs do it's not worth the waste of time or money to go out buy a piggy back hwen if you eat rammen a couple months longer you can have k-pro and you won't be dissapointed that you did

 
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I Really want to get Kpro. im just trying to save up money for an upgrade. Right now i have the basic and i can complaint 224hpw. my next step is Turbo pistons, Rods, Turbo cams and springs, Slip differential and of course Kpro. for all that i need a good amount of money... But yeap im totally agree with kpro my friend drive a 01 civic with intake and mufler and his car runs really good not as good as a turbo but runs really good..... hes got kpro.. top speed on his d17 138mph.