01_EM2

Ok ive been searching all around this forum and i havent found what exactly you have to do ... to get this thing to work on the d17. i already have one in my hands and ready to be put on but there is no DIY so please can some one show me a link of somewhere or give me some advice i would appreciate it!!!!!! THANKS

baron340

iTrader: (4)

Easiest way is to find a decent tig welder and have him weld the stock injector plate to your y8 mani. Chop off the d16 injector plate weld on new plate (I have one I'll sell you, shameless plug). I couldn't find a welder to do it, so I modified the y8 plate to fit. If you have no EGR, this is a viable option. If you do have EGR, you need K-pro or EMS to keep it from throwing a cel. Next you need a Throttle body from d16y8 (automatic is easiest to use i'll explain later). Next you need a 3 pin plug from an older gen honda or acura. It fits on the d16 tps. I went to pull-a-part and found like a dozen in various hondas and acuras.. they are used for tps, map, and various other sensors. You will swap your tps plug for this one. Just keep the wires in the same order as the stock plug. You want the automatic TB, because the IACV plug from the d17 plugs right into the one from the automatic IACV, but not the manual. It throws a CEL, but it runs fine.

Now on to the modifying. If you didn't weld on the stock injector plate, you will have to drill out two holes on the y8 mani. Get a new intake mani gasket for the d17 and match up the holes. You will also need new studs to bolt the mani to the head, they are all M8. If your mani is from a manual you will need to plug the hole on the back where the IACV was, both of them. You can use the stock fuel rail and srt-4 injectors (maybe rsx-s i don't know). You just need to drill out the injector ports a tiny bit. I drilled a little and test fit and drilled a little and test fit until the injectors fit snugly. Next you need to weld on tabs to mount the fuel rail to the mani. I just cut a couple pieces of steel about an inch wide and drilled holes in them and welded them to the fuel rail.

Pitfalls:
1.Without serious skill the stock TB won't work. I tried it by making an adapter plate. I had a nasty squeak from a vac leak that I couldnt trace down and a bouncy idle. I swapped to the d16 TB, still squeaky, but it runs fine, and its being worked out.. I'll try to remember and post here when I figure it out.

2.If you have EGR you MUST use a standalone and you MUST plug the port. OR you can swap to an 01 LX/DX water neck and ecu.

01_EM2

i have an 01 lx so no egr... so i can just plug the hole up right???

you said to use the auto tb right? the mani i got is i believe off a manual. the iacv is on the back..
so does the auto tb have the iacv on the tb because i got a little confused on that part

baron340

iTrader: (4)

Yeah the automatic TB has the IACV attached to the throttle body instead of on the back of the mani. The reason I say to use that one is because I know for a fact that the d17 iacv plug hooks right in and it works. The automatic IACV uses three wires and the manual only uses two. The manual version may work, I don't know, the plug may not fit though. I'm just telling you I do know that the automatic one works.

As for the EGR, if you don't have it, you are very fortunate. Where EGR would be there is a coolant port on the d16 mani. I left it open and it has worked fine, but if I were to redo it, I would have a plug welded in there and close up that hole flush with the face of the mani.

What are you using for engine management, and what injectors?

01_EM2

im all stock as of right now.... im planning on going boost and im piecing stuff together but other than that im stock

baron340

iTrader: (4)

Honestly i wouldn't attempt it without some kind of ems, preferably standalone. i have AEM EMS sitting in my room waiting to be tuned as soon as i fix the other crap is wrong with the car, and I'm running a piggy now. Without that situation I would never have attempted it. I doubt stock injectors will fit at all, unless you use the d17 injector plate. Even then, your car isn't going to run right. The airflow is different and the stock ecu won't be able to handle it. Get it ready to go, get a standalone ems, then do the swap. Then you will be ready for plenty of boost.

Are you going to stick with the d16 fuel rail or use the d17? As far as I know the d16 will need a resistor box wired in, but there are cheaper/bigger injectors readily available, along with aftermarket fuel rails.

01_EM2

thats a very good question lol. i know i wanna get some srt4 577cc injectors but idk what fuel rail is better to go with or which way would be easier.... i have 2 motors one is being built for boost which is outside of the car. im currently in the process of doing a auto to manual swap on my car so its sitting with the motor out and all that so i wanna just make sure i do things right

baron340

iTrader: (4)

Well that makes your situation a ton easier. I'm using the srt-4 injectors now in the stock rail. I used, I wanna say a 1/2" bit and just like worked it around the injector ports keeping it vertical in the port, so it just slowly shaved off material opening up the injector port. It didn't take much at all. To convert the fuel rail you just have to weld some tabs on the rail so you can use the y8 fuel rail mounting locations. But again, if you have a decent welder anywhere near you, I would weld the stock injector plate to the y8 mani.

01_EM2

so i took the spare injector and fuel rail and put them on the y8 mani. i didnt see what the issue is with fitment.... i wanna know if ne one tried using the stock ones just out of curiosity. i have some stock h22 injectors that i think are 310cc and see if it would be possible to put those on and re-wire the injector plugs... do you have a pic of an srt4 injector by ne chance


i really only see the throttle body being the hardest thing which really isnt to bad. ima see if my brother can have a plate made for since he had some plates made for him to custome make adown pipe and exhaust

baron340

iTrader: (4)

a custom plate for what? If you are talking about an adapter plate for the TB, I tried it. I couldn't get it to work, more power to you if you can though. But its way easier to just use the d16 TB.

The reason I said I don't think d17 injectors will work is because of their length. The srt-4 injectors have a longer section between the o-ring and plug allowing them to sit all the way down in the injector port. I don't think the d17 injectors will work, but I haven't actually tried.


srt4 injector in mani


adapter plate that i couldn't get to work

01_EM2

ahhh i see. yeah these stock injectors are freakin small man they fit but dont sit far down enough i guess... if i use the y8 injectors you think they will fit on the d17 fuel rail??

baron340

iTrader: (4)

i doubt it, plus i'm pretty sure you have to use a resistor box if you use d16 injectors, not certain though. if you want to use d16 injectors just use the d16 rail, or use the d17 rail and the srt injectors. mix and matching might be possible.. but i know for a fact either of those options will work.

01_EM2

Dam I totaly forgot about the risitor box thing... hhmmm another quick question why do studs need to be changed ?

baron340

iTrader: (4)

You just need some 8mm bolts/studs from home depot. The stock studs have a long unthreaded portion in the middle and the bolts won't tighten down all the way on the y8 mani. Remember the d17 mani has the injector plate then a big plastic plate where the actual manifold starts. The y8 mani where it bolts to the head is effectively has as thick.

01_EM2

Ah o gotcha now the spare head I have is at a friends shop that why I was askin cuz I could test fit it on ne thing

baron340

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I gotcha. That part of the swap is really no biggie.. just find you some M8 studs that are about as long as the stock ones just threaded all the way down. Just be sure and use studs on the top two holes that you have to drill out especially. Its easy to strip out the hole in the head if the portion you drilled out isn't perfect. If it isn't completely straight you will strip the hole before you even realize it is cross threaded.

01_EM2

just picked up some rsx-s injectors on clubrsx for 67 buks shipped and my turbo mani shouyld be here this week oooo i cant wait

01_EM2

whats a good turbo size to start off with. im gonna have to use an internal wastegate with the mani i picked up though. im just looking for ne where between 180-215hp

baron340

iTrader: (4)

that one is up to you man. since you already bought the mani, you probably need to find a turbo to match it unless you want to make an adapter plate. all that kind of info is out there though, search around. there are very few people that have done the y8 mani swap, so I'm more than willing to help, but do some looking for the rest of the turbo stuff, its not too hard to find.

01_EM2

its a t3 flange mani but i know there are diff trims

bryantiscool

damn efren(sp?)
making great progress already dude
keep up the good work

01_EM2

^^dang didnt even know you got on this site lol

baron340

iTrader: (4)

There are a ton of different size t3 turbos. A t3 super 60 is a good mid sized option to get your search started. Check out atpturbo.com and dezod.com they both have quite a few different turbo options you can look into. I wanna say a t28 also has a t3 exhaust footprint but I'm not sure, I never researched the smaller turbos too much.

01_EM2

^^^hey baron340 how much boost are you running on your car and is the stock fuel rail good enough flow wise with what your running??

01_EM2

okay so i figured out alot of stuff once i got down into the dirty work. i got the mani to fit on the head perfectly. im gonna be running a prelude throttle body because a bit bigger then the d16 one. the onlt thing im trying to figure out is the iac valve. Does the valve NEED water to run through it to work right or does it just need to be plugged in this is the only problem im having with this thing ne suggestions or ideas??

baron340

iTrader: (4)

I have no idea about the coolant through the TB thing man. I am assuming the engineers put it there for a reason, but thats an assumption, I don't really know. If I were you I'd stick with the d16 TB. Its port matched from the factory, and with boost flow isn't nearly as important as N/A. But if you can get it to work more power to you.

I am only running 6.5 psi at the moment. I'm turning it up to about 10-12 maybe more in the next week or so and installing AEM EMS. I'm only using a piggy back and its running like junk because of the more flow and the iacv throwing a cel. Other than that, its working out great, I just got all the non-tuning related issues tonight.

baron340

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah.. I haven't run into any fuel issues as of yet. I'm using 577 cc injectors and a walbro pump, and with the relatively small amount of hp/boost I haven't gotten to the point of needing to worry about the fuel rail.

supafil25

iTrader: (2)

what did you jb weld? i couldnt tell in the pic.

baron340

iTrader: (4)

The hole where the IACV used to be on the y8 manual. I just cut out a little circle of aluminum and jammed it down in there and smeared it with a nice thick layer of JB.

Or was there some other place you were talking about?

01_EM2

so the way you got the iacv to work was using the auto d16 tb... how do i use the stock map sensor? i figured out on rewiring the TPStheres one more sensor im forgetting about..