Rep Power: 0

My drain weld on my pan is about an inch too far where it should be. Would one of those earls fittings with the swivel head do the trick? has anyone else had this problem?

 
Rep Power: 380

lol mine is too far to the right and crosses UNDER the exhaust. I hate it. I'll trade you. lol

..and yes, I have a swivel on mine. It works

 
Rep Power: 424

It starts to get tight, you can try it, but a lot of fiddling may be involved. My first oil pan bung was so tight I had to use aluminum hardline because it was such a squeeze, it was the only thing I could use because the fittings were too long. If you can (its still off the car) grind the bung off, weld the hole shut, and move it over an inch. It'll be far easier in the long run.... if there's pressure on the fitting from trying to force it together, overtime it can crack.

 
Rep Power: 0

unfortunately its been permateched back on the car last week. i guess im trying ur approach with the aluminum hardlines.

 
Rep Power: 350

Shitty dude. That's why I trashed ac. No room. It can be done with the right downpipe, just takes some patience. You have to test fit everything up beforehand and mark the pan to make sure you'll have clearance before just welding it somewhere....

 
Rep Power: 0

Test fit FTW man. I've gone through 3 oil pans because it was cheaper than getting the holes welded over in the UK. I feel kind of bad though cause you asked me where I put mine and that's what you based your position off of. Just goes to show that every setup is different I guess.

 
Rep Power: 262

took me a couple of tries but you can get it to loop around the downpipe & get maybe an inch in between em. I put mine right before it gets real deep on the side of the pan ==*______ .....sorry bad picture but where the star is....(I can post up pics after work) I also have my W/G dumptube to the right & it all fits fine. There is alot of fabrication & custom work involved in the d17 I don't think I have not messed/modded/or tweaked at least every part of the turbo kit & accessories

 
Rep Power: 244

i gotta do mine too .. mine has a couple of bends and its too far to the right !!! i need to bring mine to the left more

 
Rep Power: 0

WEll just now i got home from work and i have a massive oil leak. I have no idea what the problem is. It looks like its been 'sweating' the oil all over the pan. i am on my second rubber oil pan gasket (lx) and this is the third time i am a having to take it off. the first go round i used honda bond and it leaked like katrina, but this time around i used permatech and i thought that did it. any advice guys? please help!

 
Rep Power: 0

also guys i have a 3/8 brass fitting welded into the pan to fit the oil drain line (capped). could this be the problem?

 
Rep Power: 0

sorry mods about triple posting but any dx lx guys did u use honda bond with your rubber gasket or permatex? also what is the easiest method of putting it back on without ripping through my new gasket?

 
Rep Power: 262

Well...the lx,dx use steel oil pans & they do have an actual gasket. Ex models have an aluminum oil pan & have silicone goo for gasket. I use Toyota black silicone...**** it awesome! As far as the 3/8th fitting.....if it's capped like leak tight or just a rubber cap? It needs to be completely sealed....I hope it's not below the oil level....

Here is a picture of my pan....oil drain fitting & oil temp probe...I highly suggest an oil temp when turbo. I have run as high as 240-250 range on the highway at 95-100 degrees outside. I should really probably get an oil cooler. I feel alot better about boostin when I have alot of gauges to watch. I would still like an aftermarket water gauge at that. I welded my oil temp sensor in but you can get drain plug w/ a sensor hole built in.....


Notice in the difference in oil pans?

 
Rep Power: 0

sux for me tho. i am takin the pan back to the shop in the morning to get a second tap welded in.

 
Rep Power: 0

I just drilled and tapped a 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting into the pan and sealed it with JB Weld. Works fine.

When I ran the steel pan, I ground all those little nubs off, and just used RTV for a gasket and didn't have any leaks there either.

 
Rep Power: 0

any helpful tips for putting the actual pan back on such as putting it at an angle or what not. The short side of the pan that goes above the brace is where i ripped the rubber gasket. when i test it fit back on without gasket it slips right on no problems soon as a put that glove back on it its another story. see thats why honda should have just given us all aluminum oil pans and vtech heads