Rep Power: 379

Lemme lay it down for you guys:

The Gear:
2003 Honda Civic D17a2
OEM Radiator
t3/t4 Turbo
Wastegate vented to atmosphere but the dumptube is only 12" long
SNEM 12" slimline pull fans (supposedly around 2000CFM each)

The issue:
The car operates fine when moving, but when sitting for over 10 minutes in the sun it will overheat. Sitting in the shade at idle it will stay around 212-216 (CEL comes on at 220). On the freeway (even today which was hot) the car runs at about 197. If the car sits in the sun it starts creeping up after awhile and once heatsoak sets it, it's all over. The fans are set to come on at 185 through kpro, it has a new HG, ARP Headstuds, etc. Coolant mix should be 50/50ish. Anytime the AC is on, the fans are on as well.

My tuner recommended flipping the fan blades to see if it would help, which I haven't done yet. The coolant system has no bubbles. The I/C takes up a LOT of room so I'm sure air has to work to make it back there. The dumptube doesn't make it out under the car yet (just haven't had it welded yet) but I'm not sure how much comes out of it at idle anyway. The lower radiator hose also touches the I/C piping coming out of the snail (nowhere else to route it). It's getting hotter out and I need to fix this.

Thoughts?

 
Rep Power: 350

Are you positive that the fan is coming on? I've experienced a similar problem. I'm sure I'll be dealing with the same issue before long once it gets really hot.

 
Rep Power: 379

Ya both fans work

 
Rep Power: 350

It seems that since I've installed the slim fans, it's caused issue for me more than anything. It hasn't been hot enough to be a consistant issue for me, but when the heat moves in permanently, I'll be able to diagnose and troubleshoot a little better. If it is a problem, I'm thinking I will upgrade the fan to a higher cfm flowing fan for better cooling control. I'll keep you posted, man.

 
Rep Power: 0

This has started since the turbo right? And your turbo is not water-cooled, correct? FWIW, I never run a 50/50 mix, always right around 60/40 - 65/35 with a bottle of Water Wetter or Purple Lightning. My idle temps won't go over 194 - without fans on, but then again I'm running a Koyo allie radiator. Pressure test the radiator cap?

 
Rep Power: 244

hey when it over heats .. does the needle on the speedometer cluster move up at all? or u can only tell with the digital coolent temp gauge ... cuz id on't have one and readin this makes me a lil worried considerring its getting hot

 
Rep Power: 350

Here's the deal with that....
Up until I installed slim line fans, I had zero issues. It's these slim fans, I'd bet on it. They don't efficiently cool the radiator core. So there are a few things I would do, personally.

A) Install a more efficient radiator (koyo)
B) Install a more efficient fan
C) Being as I don't have ac, wire the ac fan into the radiator fan

I'm not a fan of colder thermostats, fan switches, etc. Here's why:
You want your ECT's to always be in the 180-210 degree range because that is not only when you have optimal lubrication, etc, but also, outside of that range, you see a fuel trim difference being introduced, which ****s your entire tune. If you see 194 at idle, what are you seeing on the highway when you're getting sufficient air cooling the radiator core? I'd bet you're in the 160-170 range, easy. Not optimal for your fuel trim....

 
Rep Power: 327

Im using the water wetter and it seemed to drop the temp 5-10 degrees

 
Rep Power: 0

Highway temps are at about 197 Andy. Keep in mind, I was checking my temps over the winter and won't have an accurate summer reading until I get back.

 
Rep Power: 379

Correct and correct. Mine will idle in the shade over 200. Kpro forces my fans on at 185 but clearly it isn't helping. I'm about to look for a new radiator, fans, and wrap more exhaust stuff.

Kpro has my CEL set to come on at 220

I agree. On the freeway (with 91 degree Arizona weather) I'm seein a 113 degree IAT and a 195 degree ECT. My car only overheats when it's not moving. It HAS to be the fans and a new radiator will certainly help.

Summer is just starting here. I need to fix this before 120 degree days occur

 
Rep Power: 379

It keeps filling up the damn overflow tank too and not putting it back into the system

 
Rep Power: 350

Headgasket. Period. Are you using head studs?

 
Rep Power: 379

It's not the headgasket f00. It has new headstuds.

Just bought a new radiator cap and themrostat from honda. Swung by Home Depot and picked up piping to get that dump tube under the car. Picking up a koyo radiator in an hour. Picking up 2500CFM Flexilite fans after than.

My goal is to have this **** over with by tonight.

 
Rep Power: 262

I pushed coolant the same way....headgasket blew on all 4 cylinders....I never had overheating issues. I just got mine back together w/ studs & new gasket so I guess we'll see. SOHC & coolant push....seems like a never ending battle around here.

 
Rep Power: 379

Well I installed these and the car seems to be doink a-ok so far.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 
Rep Power: 262

Damn nice fans........you say it does ok at highway but not at idle.....so first guess would be flow problems...ie fans.....but the coolant push part makes me worry for you. I am so sick of coolant push. Good luck

 
Rep Power: 379

I think the coolant push only occured when the car was overheating. That OR it could have been a bad radiator cap. I just replaced the cap too and the car hasn't overheated since. Give it a few days and I'll look that the overflow tank. It wasn't overflowing, just adding to the tank.

 
Rep Power: 262

Ya....I guess all ya can do is drive it and see.....mine would do the same. Push coolant into the overflow like every car does...it just wouldn't suck it back up

 
Rep Power: 379

That's some pretty impressive vacuum to be able to suck it back up considering the bottom of the tank has some shitty little clamp and the tanks lid is a piece of platic anyway. Forget sucking it back in, I just don't want it pushing it out. lol

 
Rep Power: 379

Well I filled it today after it overheated with the new fans, drained the overflow and got all airbubbles out. Hours later, overflow is full again. Gotta be that headgasket. Plus the car seemed to spool about 500 rpms later after the last hg change. I think it was never fixed in the first place...

I'll do a pressure test, then a leakdown to see if I should do valves as well before I take it on. Could even be a clogged radiator but my bet is on that head

 
Rep Power: 0

Get the head and block checked out to make sure they're straight. That's why I went through three of those ****ers. Whole shebang is coming out in two weeks and is being carted off to the machine shop to make sure it's in spec.

 
Rep Power: 350

What are you torquing the head studs to? My overheating problem isn't even really "overheating" but the kpro triggers the CEL at a certain temp just to warn me, the needle doesn't even move, really. As soon as I start driving again, and getting air moving across the radiator, CEL turns off immediately. I need to wire both fans in...

 
Rep Power: 379

I didn't torque them. A buddy has a shop and I wasn't really interested in doing the work myself, so they did.

There's a completely rebuilt head on ebay for $300. I might just buy it and sell the two I have.

Car didn't overheat and still pushed coolant. Silly mysterious pressure.

 
Rep Power: 379

Drove today, stayed out of boost, still pushed coolant.

Turned off the car at 4pm, went out and turned the radiator cap 6 hours later and lots-o-pressure still came out. Starting to seem obvious....

 
Rep Power: 0

Your coolant will also start to change color (more yellowy) from the contantimants leaking into it from the combustion chamber. Also you may see little flecks of the gasket coating in your coolant. Really easy to see in the neck of the silver Koyo.

 
Rep Power: 379

I think I'm gonna buy this and just replace mine...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA...mZ170225428836

 
Rep Power: 350

I don't think it's the head man, I think it's lack of torque on the headstuds/improper torque sequence/or tuning related. Quit being lazy and do **** yourself so it's done right... As for the tuning, find a better shop.

 
Rep Power: 0

Plus a head skim will cost you all of $25 at a machine shop.

 
Rep Power: 379

I plan on doing it myself. The new head wasn't because I think this one is defective. It's because a getting the head milled and a valve job would cost me around $200 for everything AND it would mean the head was off the car for a few days. I can order a new head with everything done to it for not much more and then sell the head on my car. It's more of a convenience issue than anything.

I need my car and can't have it down for days at a time.

 
Rep Power: 215

Hey fella's I am having the same problem. I took it to the mechanic. He has a little devise that tests your coolant to see if you are getting any exhaust gases in your system. No exhaust gases which means good head gasket. Its air bubbles. Mine got them twice. What happens is the mechanic will put a funnel with radiator cap on it, fill it with water and let your car idle. The air bubble go through the system and wholla. Now why I have gotten the air bubble stwice, I dont know. By the way I am running similar slim fans.

Just need to road tune my AEM FIC if anyone knows how.