Rep Power: 242

i hope this guy isnt tryin to scam me...then what do u guys think it is....it feels like something in the head but i didnt see anything ..put tomorrow i will def find out what up..

thinkin about gettin a k24a1 block and just throw my head on it now ...what do u guys think

 
Rep Power: 249

eh i don't think that's a broken rod either man, your car probably wouldn't even start, and it'd be much louder.

k24a1 block wouldnt be a bad choice. direct bolt on!

 
Rep Power: 296

yeah but seeing as the head is probably the culprit I would hold off on spending money until you know whats wrong in the first place. Just because your untrained eye can't see anything with the valve cover off, that really doesnt mean the head is fine. You HAVE to pull it apart to check it out. Basically no matter what the head will have to come off anyways.

 
Rep Power: 299

Piston slap didnt happen in the head. my head was fine. in fact i turned the engine over with the valve cover off and the head was great. it was deeper inside and it was only then that i knew it.

 
Rep Power: 242

Block
Crank
TSX rods, pistons
K20 oil pump
K20 pan, windage tray
K24 front cover and timing chain setup
K20 water pump, housing, T stat housing
K20 oil cooler
K20 crank pulley
and a few other bits and sensors

i can get these parts for 1500, and i think it a TSX block but not sure...

is this a good deal

 
Rep Power: 299

still need the tranny, subframe, ECU, cables, etc...

but 1500 is not a bad price. all used parts?

 
Rep Power: 249

yeah, you'll need some other stuff and 1500 isnt a bad price, buuuuut you are probably better off buying something that is already assembled, unless that IS assembled. buying a box of someones parts = not fun.

 
Rep Power: 242

well i have a k20 already...so i have the head, tranny, etc...i pretty much just need the k24 bottom

 
Rep Power: 249

yeah i'm talking about just little pieces, nuts, and bolts you might have to source. regardless, i'd worry about the real problem at hand first.

 
Rep Power: 242

well thank you bro..it sucks but its just a learnin expereince for me though now...so now i know to check my oil a lil more then i used to..

my mechanic wants me just to rebuild the bottom end i got now...he says rods, pistins, bearing and i will be good to go

 
Rep Power: 296

yep always listen to the man taking your money over a bunch of knowledgable people that have nothing to gain, thats the best bet.

 
Rep Power: 249

you could probably find a CRV block for like 900 bucks, complete. free torque bump! honestly though, figure out what the real problem is first before he just starts tearing things apart, you seriously might regret it later.

 
Rep Power: 0

When my mechanic suggested that my '81 Rabbit's engine had a broken valve spring, I said "Show me" and he did. Likewise when the first engine in my Honda Civic DX developed a crack in the block (causing it to burn coolant) he showed me the rust line after the engine had been pulled. My Rover 2000 (with Honda engine) developed a nasty noise when engaging the clutch, he SHOWED me the shot thrust bearing.

If the OP's engine has that obvious clacking noise from the area of the head (I listened to the video) then have the mechanic find the source and SHOW the problem! The block might get rebuilt, yet still leaving the noise. I don't trust any mechanic who blindly suggests major expensive work without first demonstrating to the customer the actual problem.

 
Rep Power: 242

ok so i will go up there tomorrow and tell him i wanna see the damage part..

 
Rep Power: 0

And if the engine has any sort of involved (read: labour-intensive) damage, just swap in a new engine, either the same or an upgrade. For my DX I simply had an almost new JDM motor put in, 10HP more for a total of $1100, versus a quote of $1500 for a new block and valves and rebuilding labour only.

 
Rep Power: 296

^Exactly. When this stuff happens to an engine the whole thing needs to be inspected thoroughly. Until that is done there should be no parts list from a mechanic, if there is he is either ripping you off, or he has no idea what he is doing.

 
Rep Power: 242

well guys that part list i have on page 2 is from club rsx. com..

i was thinkin about doin a frank build and i was askin you guys if all those parts was a good deal...

 
Rep Power: 242

ok guys hear the deal...i come to realize the shop my car is at is defdiently trying to RIP ME THE **** OFF...they want 5,000 to rebuild the bottom end of my ****ing k20...

This dude is seriously thinks i have no idea what im talkin about and tryin to get over me...he wants 500 to pull the motor out and 500 to re install it...so i fugured it woudl be almost 1000 in parts so that means he wants 3000 for labor...

does anybody in south jersey know a shop where i can get my car fixed at a reasonable price...

 
Rep Power: 242

bump

 
Rep Power: 0

I personally would have established a relationship with a trustworthy mechanic BEFORE I had trouble with my sophisticated ambulatory instrument, but that's me. Where did you get the car? Who put in the motor? Maybe the car's history, previous owner, etc. will turn up a decent fellow/lady who's worked on it..

 
Rep Power: 249

aren't you glad you came here and posted now?

500 ****ing dollars to take an engine out? is he charging $500 an hour labor because that's all it should take, maybe a little more time but still, not long at all. that is absolutely ridiculous and i would never speak to him again.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yah, in the first place the engine probably doesn't need removing, and in the second place $500 would cover a complete repair with new camshaft and bearings. I hope the mechanic isn't now going to demand money before giving back the car...

You know, even a Honda dealer would be giving him much cheaper service than this.. and certainly more knowledgeable.

 
Rep Power: 242

lol well thanks guys for the great advice...i found out that the mechanic mis understood me and he priced 5000 for a fully built bottom emd..i talk to the guy who build s the motor for that shop and he said it would cost 400 bucks to install rods, pistons , bearing and inspect the head and reassemble it all....

 
Rep Power: 296

Well thats all well and good but if you need rods,pistons etc, the block needs serious attention first. The noise is a metal to metal noise, that means not only are you ****ing up parts, you are ****ing up whatever they are riding on, connected to and such, hehe. If you are trying to save money, have them pull everything apart and figure out what is wrong and why it happened. From there you may be better of buying a new engine, short-block, or head. The labor invoved in fixing heads and blocks can add up fast so watch your ***. Most shops will *** rape you without the vaseline if they sense that you don't know any better.

 
Rep Power: 0

Noise + engine = not good. Do it right Even $5000 for a fully built bottom end seems ridiculous unless he was sleeving it.

 
Rep Power: 242

ok heres the latest on my car..i got it towed back from the shop that was goin to fix it cause i just dont have the funds to get it fixed..

I check my oil level and theres still oil in it...NOW the guy told me he had to take the oil pan off so he could def see if it was a rod that broke...well theres oil in the motor so thats tellin me he didnt pull the oil pan...IS there any other way you can check to see if you have a beoken rod other then from the bottom end...

 
Rep Power: 236

^ that seems very fishy, unless he put oil back into it because he wasnt sure if you would try and start it again before it was fixed. I can't think of any other way to look at the bottom end except for pulling the pan. Some shops have scopes/cameras and such but i dont know why he would do that when he could get a real good look just by pulling the pan.

 
Rep Power: 272

thats no broken rod. the car wouldn't even start and even if it does start it would be loud as hell.
this is what a broken rod does to your block

thats what happened to my k20a block

check your head. it could be a bent valve or something

 
Rep Power: 242

ok a lil up date on my civic...

my k20 had a spun bearing #2 cylinder...crank jacked up..so got k24a1 mated with my a2 head...its all together and will we put back in car this week..gotta get a good tune and see what kind of numbers im gonna get...

 
Rep Power: 250

How much did the K24a1 bottom end swap end up costing and what were the parts that you needed?