what oil since im turbo?????
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what oil since im turbo?????
hey guys. i runs stock oil specs. since im turbo what oil should i be runnin i herd synthetic is good for turbo to mak eit last longer but also what weights????
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On a boosted setup its recommended to use a synthetic motor oil. Synthetics can hold up to more heat and abuse then a conventional oil and are less prone to thermal breakdown.
Conventional oils need to be changed more often in a turbo setup because of the heat it is exposed to passing through the turbo bearings causing it to break down and leave carbon deposits in the bearings which will eventually either destroy the bearings or plug up the passages and prevent oil flow.
I guess its up to the owner, but once you boost a motor that was not originally designed to be boosted you are already pushing it beyond its intended threshold and shortening its overall life. Why not offer yourself a bit of securtiy by going with a motor oil that was designed to be used in high performance applications and designed to withstand high heat.
Conventional oils need to be changed more often in a turbo setup because of the heat it is exposed to passing through the turbo bearings causing it to break down and leave carbon deposits in the bearings which will eventually either destroy the bearings or plug up the passages and prevent oil flow.
I guess its up to the owner, but once you boost a motor that was not originally designed to be boosted you are already pushing it beyond its intended threshold and shortening its overall life. Why not offer yourself a bit of securtiy by going with a motor oil that was designed to be used in high performance applications and designed to withstand high heat.
Re: what oil since im turbo?????
On a boosted setup its recommended to use a synthetic motor oil. Synthetics can hold up to more heat and abuse then a conventional oil and are less prone to thermal breakdown.
Conventional oils need to be changed more often in a turbo setup because of the heat it is exposed to passing through the turbo bearings causing it to break down and leave carbon deposits in the bearings which will eventually either destroy the bearings or plug up the passages and prevent oil flow.
I guess its up to the owner, but once you boost a motor that was not originally designed to be boosted you are already pushing it beyond its intended threshold and shortening its overall life. Why not offer yourself a bit of securtiy by going with a motor oil that was designed to be used in high performance applications and designed to withstand high heat.
Conventional oils need to be changed more often in a turbo setup because of the heat it is exposed to passing through the turbo bearings causing it to break down and leave carbon deposits in the bearings which will eventually either destroy the bearings or plug up the passages and prevent oil flow.
I guess its up to the owner, but once you boost a motor that was not originally designed to be boosted you are already pushing it beyond its intended threshold and shortening its overall life. Why not offer yourself a bit of securtiy by going with a motor oil that was designed to be used in high performance applications and designed to withstand high heat.
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Really?
Hmmm, Ive read many articles supporting what Ive stated,
Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren't synthetic or artificial in the sense that they're manufactured out of whole cloth--they still have the same natural ingredients found in "real" oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like a Lego set to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with desirable characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids--polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics.
Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F.
Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils
Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F.
Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils
Much more usefull info can be found here as well,..
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...eads.php?Cat=0
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Re: what oil since im turbo?????
Just my 2 cents here, there is a reason that Porsche endorses and uses Mobil 1 synthetic in their motors from the factory!
I have owned 6 of them, 4 being turbos, and always ran synth. in them.
G
I have owned 6 of them, 4 being turbos, and always ran synth. in them.
G
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Registered!!
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You obviously have never owned an exotic! After several years of driving them and racing around tracks, the thrill wears off and spending the money to maintain them starts to get old.
The ricer just has more bang for the buck, plain and simple.
I will say, I almost picked up a Cayman just before I came to my senses!
G
The ricer just has more bang for the buck, plain and simple.
I will say, I almost picked up a Cayman just before I came to my senses!
G
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Re: what oil since im turbo?????
Really?
Hmmm, Ive read many articles supporting what Ive stated,
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...oil/index.html
Much more usefull info can be found here as well,..
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...eads.php?Cat=0
Hmmm, Ive read many articles supporting what Ive stated,
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...oil/index.html
Much more usefull info can be found here as well,..
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...eads.php?Cat=0
On a boosted setup its recommended to use a synthetic motor oil. Synthetics can hold up to more heat and abuse then a conventional oil and are less prone to thermal breakdown.
Conventional oils need to be changed more often in a turbo setup because of the heat it is exposed to passing through the turbo bearings causing it to break down and leave carbon deposits in the bearings which will eventually either destroy the bearings or plug up the passages and prevent oil flow.
I guess its up to the owner, but once you boost a motor that was not originally designed to be boosted you are already pushing it beyond its intended threshold and shortening its overall life. Why not offer yourself a bit of securtiy by going with a motor oil that was designed to be used in high performance applications and designed to withstand high heat.
Conventional oils need to be changed more often in a turbo setup because of the heat it is exposed to passing through the turbo bearings causing it to break down and leave carbon deposits in the bearings which will eventually either destroy the bearings or plug up the passages and prevent oil flow.
I guess its up to the owner, but once you boost a motor that was not originally designed to be boosted you are already pushing it beyond its intended threshold and shortening its overall life. Why not offer yourself a bit of securtiy by going with a motor oil that was designed to be used in high performance applications and designed to withstand high heat.
Yes...german cars are not reliable...its a known fact, only supported by the dissatisfaction of their owners, many of which happen to be my friends who I try to get to go to the light (imports) and they stay stubborn, and stay broke
to the OP. 10w-30 synthetic. Done
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I use synthetic 10w30. No specific brand just whatever synthetic is on sale at auto zone. If I drive 60 for about 30 min my oil temp gets to hot for nonsynthtic oil hell it may be getting too hot for synthetic. It will hit 270. I can drive it in traffic all day long with it going over 250 just constant spooling of the turbo doing 60 or higher heats it up. I might try the royal purple to see if it drops the temp. I t would be nice to not worry about driving it long distance. I thought about an oil cooler, but I really don't think I could squeeze one in.
Anthony
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One thing to think about, regardless of oil weight (unless is SAE 80 or something) is if you have a turbo with piston seals, if the oil feed line shoots in oil at high pressure, then it is a good idea to have a restriction orifice on the oil supply line to the turbo. Either that or a really-small oil supply line (-3AN?) going to the turbo.
The restriction orifice causes a pressure drop across it, keeping you from pushing oil past the shaft seals and into the compressor housing or exhaust housing, or destroying the seals entirely. If the seals get damaged and oil starts leaking out, oil pressure across the turbo goes down. If it gets bad enough, eventually the pressure wont support the forces on the turbine shaft, and the compressor or turbine wheel could hit their housings, and your turbo ***** the bed.
As far as weight & type, I run royal purple HP synthetic 5w-30, its the shiz. I was running RP HPsyn 10w-30, but oil pressure was silly high when cold (90-100psi at < 5min from startup on a 30-40F day, @ idle).
I can say that, unless you have an old-*** motor with all kinds of wear marks that are currently filled with reg. oil combustion products, the only downside to synthetic oil is the cost. Synthetic oil in itself wont hurt the motor.
Plugging royal purple though. I love it. Intake vacuum is up 3in h2o over other brands. Seems to seal the rings better. I'd be more than happy to slap a RP sticker on my car if I got free RP & filters for life.
The restriction orifice causes a pressure drop across it, keeping you from pushing oil past the shaft seals and into the compressor housing or exhaust housing, or destroying the seals entirely. If the seals get damaged and oil starts leaking out, oil pressure across the turbo goes down. If it gets bad enough, eventually the pressure wont support the forces on the turbine shaft, and the compressor or turbine wheel could hit their housings, and your turbo ***** the bed.
As far as weight & type, I run royal purple HP synthetic 5w-30, its the shiz. I was running RP HPsyn 10w-30, but oil pressure was silly high when cold (90-100psi at < 5min from startup on a 30-40F day, @ idle).
I can say that, unless you have an old-*** motor with all kinds of wear marks that are currently filled with reg. oil combustion products, the only downside to synthetic oil is the cost. Synthetic oil in itself wont hurt the motor.
Plugging royal purple though. I love it. Intake vacuum is up 3in h2o over other brands. Seems to seal the rings better. I'd be more than happy to slap a RP sticker on my car if I got free RP & filters for life.
Last edited by briand17a2; Jan 29, 2008 at 04:10 PM.
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