Rep Power: 350

400 on pump may be pushing it bro.... I don't think I'd push it that far on a sohc....

 
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Dude you're almost there though. Do you think another 26 ponies would kill your engine? Honestly I would just want to be able to hit it one time on the dyno, safely, and not run it daily. Just to know that I could do it. I'm going to make the engine as bullet proof as possible. We'll see what happens really. If I don't make 400, then so be it, I know I'll be close.

 
Rep Power: 350

Yeah but you're talking one pass under controlled situations. Could you do it and get away with it? Probably. Would it be worth potentially toasting the motor for one 400 whp pass on pump gas? Hell no.

And believe me, I wasn't pushing that power level daily. I dialed it down a few psi for street driving. I was pushing about 350 whp ballpark....

 
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That's really all I'm looking for honestly. I can't imagine running very high 300s daily with the one drive wheel monster that we have. We'll see how hight this setup lets me get. I know the injectors will be out the door in favor of some kitchen faucets as even the SRT-4s probably can't throw enough fuel to safely run much above 300. I'm just enjoying learning how to do this stuff and seeing tangible results on the car and the big ****ing grin in the rearview mirror.

 
Rep Power: 350

I don't know how far that d16 intake is going to get you, to be honest. It might not be a bad idea to start looking into a custom intake or maybe trying a venom or edelbrock intake from a d16 and see if you can get something to fit. As far as injectors go, 750cc with a return system and rising rate fpr should support 500 whp.

 
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I'm already looking into a custom intake and would like to fab it myself. I'm about to go take some welding classes locally to learn how to TIG and am researching which TIG setup to go with when I get back to the states. Having other people do my work for me sucks so I may as well do it myself. That way its on my terms, my schedule, and there's that whole control freak thing I've got going on.

I've got a guy who's supposed to be making a custom IM for me after he finishes his brother's (green91 and buds302), so I'm going to compare the two when that comes and use them as a baseline for the one that I want to make.

Gotta get the rising rate FPR so until I buy that, I'm not going to convert to the return system. Its the last part I need since my spare rail is ready to go with the AN fitting welded on. Thanks for the advice though Andy.

 
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3 Sep 07 update bump.

 
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it took you that much money to get a custom kit together? wow lol

 
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Well.... um, you can make an analogy for the rear end of the cat... but, there's a restrictor donut in there too. You need to hack off the other flange as well, or bore out the hole in it to run a true 2.25" exhaust. Otherwise you still have a clog.

 
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Keep in mind that there is about $1800 in parts that you don't normally buy for a custom setup (new radiator, Ingall's Stiffy, expensive UK welding, etcc..) that add about $1000 to my Stage 1 setup.

Yeah, saw that yesterday as well Justin. There's no way to bore it out, since after the donut gasket is the actual 2" cat exit pipe. I think I'm going to cut off an extra flange I have laying around on an old de-cat pipe, and take that stock one off. That should also trim up the length problems I'm having right now.

 
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Updated WG tip bump.

 
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SO I am glad all rolled out well Clint. I hope the project is all you wanted and then some.

 
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LOL Paul, this project is just gettin' started! You know I'll be back for more from you in due time once the old bank account fills back up a little!

 
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Minor update on 1st post.

 
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another update on the tips of Page 1.

 
Rep Power: 350

Clint, I seriously wouldn't waste money on coating your valves or sleeves. Seriously, you're not going to put enough power through that block to break a sleeve. These sleeves are relatively thick and short of snapping a rod or breaking a ringland (which would damage an aftermarket sleeve anyways), you really don't need either thing. I'm about to have my new build completed and am shooting for 450 whp on race fuel and have zero intent to do anything with the valves or the sleeves. I am sure they will hold out. I know you don't need them for 350.

 
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Good stuff Andy. The more I learn and have been reading about sleeving (cost, process, benefits, etc.) you're absolutely right. It's sounds like a big, expensive unnecessary pain in the ***. Sure it looks cool (until you put the head on) and you have bragging rights of having a sleeved block, but those bragging rights cost as much as an LSD.

So I may have wasted $150 on my bare D17 block, but it has helped me visualize some things.

Wouldn't the coated valves help flow though?

 
Rep Power: 350

Why would a coated valve help flow? The dimension, swirl, size, and shape of the ports are what affect flow. The general idea is to reinforce a valve to make it stronger so it can withstand higher cylinder pressures and heat ranges. Of course, an oversized valve will allow you to machine the seat to allow for more flow, but if there's a process of coating a valve to allow more flow, its not one I'm familiar with it unless you know something I don't...

Have you already put in your pistons and rods? If not, you didn't waste money on a block. Have that sucker honed and rebuild it while your stock motor is still in the car to minimize your downtime.

Also, you don't have to have a return fuel fitting off the rail. You can just split the feed line and run a line straight to the regulator, then drop the return off the bottom.

 
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Good points as usual Andy. I'll profess my ignorance on the valve coating bit, I thought that in addition to providing strength, the nitride coating also provided some increased vlow. Kind of like a Teflon non-stick pan. But hey, I haven't researched it yet so I'm going off my own logic vice fact.

Nope, pistons and rods are waiting to be purchased when I get back from Algeria in the early part of next year. Machine work is expensive enough in the states, and I don't want to pay double over here in the UK for it. Therefore I'll buy the parts over here and then start shipping things off to get worked and then sat at my folks in the states until I PCS back in the fall of next year.

I've already got a rail with the bung welded on so as soon as pony up the $250 for a decent regulator, I'm set. Fittings and SS line are sitting about 3ft. from me now.

I appreciate the advice brother!

 
Rep Power: 350

If you haven't paid to weld a bung to your fuel rail, don't waste your money. You don't need two fittings on the rail, you just run a T fitting off of the feed. One side goes into the rail, the other to the regulator, then run the return off the regulator back to the tank.

As for machining, you shouldn't have to spend more than 100 bux to get your block honed. The pistons and rods are the most expensive part, everything else is relatively cheap.

 
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Fuel rail was done in July when I had my pan and DP welded up Andy. No biggie at this point.

Wait until you get stationed overseas man. Block honing here in the UK will cost around 150 pounds ($300 USD), you'll have to drive 3 hours to the place, and they will still **** it up. I'm just going to collect parts until we move back to the states.

 
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when is required to make the fuel system a return system? is it the regulators job or the fuel pumps job to keep the fuel pressure up? can it hurt a walbro 255 to not have a return system and just have stock?

 
Rep Power: 350

Both. You have to have a pump that can flow enough to keep up with the demand your injectors have in the higher boost ranges (for your setup). All a regulator is is a valve that opens when you hit a certain pressure, but the boost referenced regulators keep that valve closed in proportion to the boost you run. It is necessary when you run out of fuel. If you're looking at much more than 250 whp, that's about when you need to do it. No it doesn't hurt to have a pump with no return.

 
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ok, right now ill be at 5.8psi with rsx-s injects. ill prob do the return system when i go to srts and get around 9psi..

so all you do is T off the rail post, between it and the regualtor and make a line go back to the tank and thats all?

 
Rep Power: 350

No, its pretty involved. You can tee off the feed line, one side goes to the rail, the other goes into the regulator. Then you run a return line back to the tank. You have to do some plumbing changes inside of the tank, depending on how you route your lines. There are several ways to do it. Either way, you need to make sure there is a filter (stock or aftermarket) between the pump and the rail, otherwise you'll clog the injectors in no time. Its a good idea to keep the venturi fitting in the tank that connects to the pickup on the reservoir in tact. Then either the feed or return line, depending on which way you go, needs to have a bulkhead fitting installed next to the stock filter. If you keep the stock fpr in the tank, you need to remove the spring inside.

 
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hmm, aight, ill get back to yah on that one

 
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Some great tips for newbs like me considering if they want to turbo their civic!

 
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Hey clint that a nice list....... ill be going
to china for work for 4-6 months gonna be
saving up some good untaxed money for the project, your list will help me out sinds
i dont always know the exact englisch word for it.

 
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Bump because I updated the 1st post with the length the new fuel rail studs need to be.

 
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holy crap speed, nice work on the turbo build, but with that kind of cash (if i wasn't poor) i would swap in a k20a