Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

They probably dont want any responsibility for nuking your transmission, and they have a dynapack, which kinda requires you to start in 4th, not in 1st. So they may physically not be able to do it.

Buds302

iTrader: (2)

the transmission wont let you do it.....it will down shift when you floor it from low RPM...

DowntownRicer

yea i kinda had a feeling thats why a lot of places didnt want to tune it, but fortunatly I found these guys - they understand that its an auto and there cool with it.

At anyrate, anyone have a comment on the bigger exhaust system? (and I confirmed that it is a 3 inch)

dezod

iTrader: (74)

The top end with breathe real nice, but witth the loss of some low end TQ.

DowntownRicer

Okay update!!!!!

The kit is installed, along with the 3" mag exhaust. It looks real nice and sounds good too. It was idling a little high, but I put the correction factor from 220 to 310 in and then it settled down. I was wondering what does the displacement setting mean? I figure its for the injectors as well, but I didnt change it from 220 to 310 until I got a confirmation (so let me know if you would).

I'm going to get the car towed over to the tuners tommorow and the dyno is on thursday. If I get 140 horsepower, Ill be happy, if I get less I still wont care at least for now Ill have my car back . I figure Ill post the maps and charts up when I get em - at this point money is like meaningless so when I get em, there free to the world .

One odd thing is that the intercooler fitted in decent, but the stock bumper just wouldnt fit back on correctly, they ended up having to just pretty much remove most of the lower half - so I'm in the market for a widebody front bumper - something that goes good with the rest of the car, I just want to replace the front bumper and nothing else if possible - hopefully keeping the same ride height - nothing to extravagant, suggestions if you have any?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

What size is the intercooler you are using?

DowntownRicer

I'm using the one in Dezod's kit, the one with the intake and exhaust on the same side. I knew it was going to be a pretty snug fit and we wanted the intercooler to be centered. So in the end we decided to cut the piping for a little more flexability and added a couple inches of flex to the pipes. It made it completly centered, but the bumper just wouldnt fit back on with that setup. So I told them to go ahead and cut it, I'm prolly going to invest in a kumanari\maybe a wings west - if I can find it in urethane and does anyone know how much wider than the stock one they are? How about an R33? - they look pretty wide, but the R33 looks to standoutish for me, id only get it if its my only recourse. I kind of like kits that look like:

04-05 Honda Civic Body Kits

but trying to find a urethane one isnt easy.

Can anyone tell me if setting that Displacement setup in Emanage to the new injector size is the right thing to do? I just need general info so that when I start it up to put it on the truck and drive it into the bay it doesnt blow up (any info as far as the general setup is appreciated - the shop is handling the maps, I was just wondering about the general setup window - ill post a pic in a bit) - you guys have got me scared that my fuel pump is going to die, wastegate is going to start bleeding, the oil is going to catch fire and transmission shoot out the back of the car just from giving it an initial crank

DowntownRicer

This is what I'm talking about, aside from the injector change I'm not sure if i should set anything else, like the Airflow Meter Change selection or if setting it to use the Greedy PR correct, it was default to disconnect - which i have no idea what that means. The vacum line is ran and hooked into the emanage so I figured it should be set to use it, am I wrong? The displacement is still set to 220, should i put it to 310? I know the shop will be able to answer all of this and set it correctly, but I figured id ask here as well.

Pedro Lopes

iTrader: (2)

post some pics of the engine bay when your done and good luck on the dyno.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

Your displacement is the size of the engine for the emanage. 1.7L man that would be 1700cc or 1699cc or some crap. You might get a map sensor error with that correction factor dezod wrote a huge thread on that. Try 220/310 if you get an error bring it down to 300 and such. I'm not turbo but I've read all the threads about using it with emanage. Good luck.

DowntownRicer

!!!!!!UPDATE!!!!!

It's completed - dialed in and pulls pretty damn hard - doing 132 horse and 129 lbs of torque. I still need to get a new front bumper(prolly in 2 weeks or so) and a filter for the turbo(which im getting next friday). Im going to post up pics and my map and dyno results. Its not super power like some of you boost junkies out there have running. Im only running 5psi and am completed satisfied. Honestly speaking 5 psi scares me (as that I broke my boost cherry today - I think any of you guys running 10 psi on the street are just crazy personally. At any rate the car does what I need and thats run well under boost. Thanks all you guys for the support .

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

Did I read this right? 132whp on 5psi? WTF??

LT2004ever

iTrader: (2)

nothing wrong with that...

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

Downtownricer please give more info on your setup. This just not seem right to me at all. Are you using stock injectors and set the correction factor to 310? If yes then why would you do that? If you're using RSX injectors than nevermind. 132 whp does not seem right at all. Hell I'm pulling that and I"m N/A. I think you are running way too rich or have a leak somewhere who knows. 5psi should be 140whp plus in my opinion. Maybe I just misread everything. I'm glad you got your car running though with no issues. I'm not trying to be negative but I think your car should be pulling more power.

DowntownRicer

yea I'm running rsx injectors, also remember I have an LX auto, not an EX manuel . I know I can make more power with this setup, but this has been more of a do it to learn it and show that you can than a prove im 'big poppa boost" thang. Like I told the guy while I was watching the dyno run - just make it safely driveable and we'll worry about the rest later.

If you have more fuel pumping into the system itll easily go higher - when the car is under boost you can feel it hit the 5psi wall and it keeps pulling like its waiting for more fuel that never comes. Right now the injectors are +50 around 4500 in the map which is the highest you can set them with emanage. I dont want to burn them out, if there maxing with the correct correction factor, then i really dont want to fool with it and end up blowing something, nor do I really want bigger injectors as that Paul (from dezod) already told me that itll make it boost more, but itll never idle right - I dont want that. At any rate it is what it is, so long as it stays safe and daily driveable for awhile I'm happy. Maybe when I get a new car - prolly an SI, or if I have the cash I have my eyes set on a 335i , then Ill turn the boost up - but Id go for all new internals if I did that - remember slow and steady (safely) wins the race .

Here's the chart, Ill do the map later.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Wow... thats tuned pretty lean, I'd keep an eye on that under boost. It may improve when the weather warms up considering you had it tuned on presumably 20 degree day, but if they tuned that indoors then I would be concerned. The dyno curve looks about right though. Did you baseline it? 6 HP per pound of boost does sound a touch low, especially with a nearly 13:1 AFR

DowntownRicer

I was kind of wondering about that, he did add 1.5 into the injection map, but from 4500 to 6500 the injectors are maxed: its pretty much like this
0 up to 3000, -9 at 3500, 33 at 4000 and then 50 from 4500 and on. The only way to get it higher as I understand it, is to play with the correction factor, maybe fuging it to 240 as opposed to 220 or get bigger injectors. So when you say that its tuned really lean, is there something I could do to correct it? As far as I can tell, the AF map is just adding and subtracting fuel at the different RPM's, now because I'm using 310cc injectors, the correction factor is adjusting how much each percentage is worth. So since my correction is .7, then a zero in the AF map would correlate back to 220cc which is stock, but a +50 is what? 310? or is it more like 290? At any rate, I can't get anymore fuel, at least with what I'm working with now - anyone know of a work-around?

The guys at dezod sent me a map, ill look at that and see how it differs from mine, maybe Ill get the dyno guy to take a look at that map and see if we can come up with some kind of compromise or something.

Can someone quickly school me on AFR. As far as I know 14.7:1 is ideal, so for a turbo setup you want something higher than that? All the dyno charts I've seen, say like 11:1 and 12:1, so 13:1 is closer to the ideal - whats wrong with that? especially at only 5psi.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

14.7:1 is ideal for N/A!. You want to be richer with turbo especially at wide open throttle. You can't really do much under partial throttle bc the ECU will always try to compensate for the changes made in emanage. Since you're drawing so much heat the richer fuel mixture actually cools the cylinders. You're only at 5 psi so being super rich is not necessary but I'd try to get that Afr down in the lower 12's at WOT during the summer. Did they play with your ignition timing. Retarding the timing at higher rpms is also a safe thing to do prevent detonation especially since you're basically maxing out your injectors.

Also, do you have the pressure sensor with emanage. I didn' t think using the air flow adjustment map was good for turbo setups. With the pressure sensor you can add fuel with boost. Take a look at this thread in download Boosted Viks map. I'm not saying to use it on your car but just check it out to compare to urs. You will see he doesn't even touch the air flow adjustment map and uses the injection map, pressure sensor and ignition timing map. I believe he's running a t25 at 5psi. I'm no turbo expert or anything just trying to help you out.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...t=calibrations

DowntownRicer

sry to newb it up but WOT?

and I see what you mean about the AFR, I figured it would be maxxing if you tune it through there, however if you don't modify the AFR and tune with injection mapping along with retarding the ignition - isnt that much more tricky?
I was looking through his map and I also noticed that he was setup for vtec as far as I can tell - won't that have an affect on the final map I would have to use? I guess what I'm trying to ask is that is there a big difference in timings between the EX and LX? is it due solely to vtec? compression ratio? If you have any figures I would much appreciate it.

I figure what ill end up doing is using his map as a baseline and see what we can come up with on the dyno.
But my honest to god question for the moment is that - with that dyno graph is the car safe to drive? even if it goes into boost a couple times?

and yes I do have the pressure sensor installed - its running into the vacum manifold along with the other vacum lines.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

Sorry WOT means (Wide Open Throttle). Yes ignition timing is tricky but I figured since you're paying for the dyno time the tuner should know how to do it. I think your car is safe for daily driving but I personally wouldn't beat on it w/o a richer air fuel ratio. I honestly think their will be minimal differences between EX and LX. The LX has lower compression so I would assume there would be less detonation issues and the EX VTEC would translate to a richer fuel mixture past 4000rpms since more air is flowing with the opening of the intake cam and longer duration. Happy BOOSTING. I hope to be in your shoes by the end of the summer.

Buds302

iTrader: (2)

il be using boosted viks startin map to get me to the tuner.....it looks real good. and im using a T3...im using a Dezod kit. so ill have a larger turbo than the T25 so i think to get me to the tuner ill be ok. save the map you have in your car now..then put this map in and see what happens right quick..i tried running this map pure stock...i ran it for less than 30 seconds. it wouldnt let me rev past 4000rpm at WOT. it bogged way down. my injector duty cycle was at 85% too. so i used this map and dubbed it way down..i turned alot of the settings way down!. it runs excelent now. when i go turbo next week ill use the full map and see what it does.

familycar

iTrader: (4)

but your cammed and all so your pretty modified to begin with. your power is way different from his. LOL

dezod

iTrader: (74)

Well the tune looks pretty 'generic' that he sent me and seems like it was an entry level tuner who did not know how to tune the D17 nor the e-manage.

The Air Flow map was maxxed in a lot of cells and was quite choppy for sure. The TP that is supposed to be on the one axxis is not there at all.

The additonal injection map was barely touched at all. They added 1.5 pulse width from 4K to redline.

No ignition tuning was done at all.

Overall, I think his tune is novice at best resulting in a power loss for sure. The AFRs don't look stellar, but the power curves seem very linear, which is good. They are not choppy at all.

An EX auto should dyno around 90whp (which is what ours did), which leads me to beleive that an LX auto would be in the vicinity of 75-80whp. Stock crank HP values for EXs are 127-130HP while DX/LX are 105HP if I recall. So if the net power gain from 80whp to 130whp is taken into account is a 62.5% power increase on 5 PSI or a net gain of 50whp on a horrid tune, which is not bad at all if you ask me.

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

I see your point familycar but I was just perplexed by his numbers considering the dezod version 1 turbo kit made 147whp on an auto EX. I understand he has an LX but VTEC shouldn't be that much of a difference or maybe it is. That's why I asked what type of turbo setup is he running. As long as everything is functioning properly his car will be safe and probably still more fun than 100whp.

Thanks Paul for clarifying that up. You beat my post.

DowntownRicer

When you say you used this map - are you referring to boosteds map, or the one I posted?

At any rate the map I'm using, as paul stated was a VERY generic tune, it bogs down at 4000 because thats where the boost kicks in, so the injectors are full on. At that point your pretty much out of gas, but you can sustain it there safely. The ignition timing map will probably allow for more flow with the injectors - if you look at it, its set to 80% at 4k(which is high as the map lets it run), but I was talking to the guy at Extreme and we were going over the map and in the end it didnt look like I would get a whole hell of a lot of help by solely ignition timing tunning - it may drop it from 12.8 to 12.2\12.3, high elevens if I'm extremly lucky - but then you have to consider how much more gas you have in the fuel rail, and how much harder thats going to push your pump. I still get a since that Ill need a new fuel system if I want to turn the boost up so that it can be daily driven with zero to no problems.


Hey paul, if you think it would be worth it, I have some business, rather I'm coming to FL. in May or Jul - its one of those summer months, but Ill be down there for a couple of days. If I swing past dezod - would you guys give it a shot?

dezod

iTrader: (74)

dezod

iTrader: (74)

We can work something out for sure. Gimme a ring a week or so in advance.

DowntownRicer

So now on to more pressing matters and this is a doosey that needs lots of help. I've been calling around to different places looking for a front bumper to protect my precious lil intercooler - Like I said earlier, it sits forward about 1-2(maybe not even that much) inches (ill measure it and post pics when I get home). You can picture it like sitting 1/2 an inch behind the tip of the oem bumpers midpoint. Im looking for a complete body kit ultimatly, but for now Ill settle for a bumper thatll cover it. Its okay if the new bumper needs a slight trim in the rear, I just dont want to have this giant whole in the front of my bumper . In actuallity I dont mind the fact that the intercooler is sitting out, what I mind is that you can see the frame...

So if you know of a decent, non-retarded looking front bumper thatll cover it up nicely, just point it out if you would - thanks.

dezod

iTrader: (74)

The intercooler needed to be mounted on the back portion of the support beam and it will sit virtually flush on the oem.

DowntownRicer

yea - i thought about that, but it was too late when I realized what had happend, so now its sitting forward - I just need to know if anyone thinks I would have a problem with mounting something like the wings west avenger to the front now that its forward. I could just remount it, but if I can leave it the way it is and put a freash bumper on there then I have no problem with it. Here are some pics - like i said we cut the lower cross bar.